Bo T

ThomasPowers, The cost argument is a good one as one can get several pounds of exceptional steel for the cost of making a single crucible. However, the direct conversion of ore in the crucible controls some of the variables that occur when smelting ore > steel in the furnace. For example; better control of the reduction process resulting in a  more uniform composition of the product. Also, I am not sure that the cost would be that much more than building and running a backyard smelter. It seems, to me, the main difference is the cost of the crucible. Dr. Feuerbach has an amazing thesis. I have had the opportunity to read a portion of it. I have also reviewed Ric Furrer's video. I am aware of some people around here who have smaller furnaces capable of melting cast iron for a pour. Such a furnace should be capable of heating a crucible to make steel. At this point the discussion is still academic but very interesting.

58 minutes ago, DanielC said:

Many friends in my circles make crucible steel using various starting materials, including ore. I could connect you to them.

DanielC,

Yes, and thank you.

Ah, so your references will deal with the reduction of the ore in the crucible? I noted the pig iron process as that is similar to what I have been able to find. And, I am not really interested in it as it seems horribly inefficient but successful. There was some reference to a 'west hill process' from a millennia ago but few details. I'll check the Huntsman clue and your references. As for the current videos and information that I have found for hobbyists it appears to be - adding a little carbon to low carbon steel to make wootz. 

The one step reduction of iron ore to steel, which I am interested in, is conceptually very simple but as usual the devil is in the details.

I am thinking about a batch process where the magnetite is reduced in the crucible. The carbon would be used as the reducing agent and as an alloying element. the result should be steel, but....it could end up as cast iron or half baked magnetite. I'll check the video to see if I can glean info from it. I did download a paper where the process was used on pig iron.

I was at a hammer-in last year where I talked to a gentleman about making crucible steel. He had a large quantity of magnetite of high purity. During the process of refining the magnetite, how much carbon is needed? Is the carbon oxidized to carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide or both? We were talking about a steel @ 1% C.

b4utoo-around here (PNW), in very good shape from $800 to $1200.

OP- 71# is right in the range for farriers anvils. Good ductile iron farriers anvils, brand new, start at $300 delivered. Around here, probably $250 to $350 for a reasonably quick sale.

If it has good rebound, $250 should result in a reasonably quick sale. At $350 you might end up listing it for a while. $500 is mostly wishful thinking for a user as a new, good anvil can be had at that price.

2 hours ago, Kozzy said:

Hobbles were not just for horses---cows and goats too.  There is one style which doesn't go completely around the leg but instead sort of pinches the muscles so you just slip them over the muscular part of the back legs:  On and off in a breeze for milking.  You can sort of see a similar thing in the image of this patent  http://www.google.com/patents/US1244628

The extra chain could be to immobilize the tail of a cow.

Not saying that's what they are as the distance between the cuffs seems awfully short to me but they are not so far from pinch hobbles to rule it out.

 

 

The head of the pins could dig into the legs of the livestock causing irritation, the drawing of the hobbles that you show are smooth on the inside. The holes on the end are probably meant for a bolt to compress it.

They wouldn't work well for hobbles, as they need to be smooth as not to injure the horse. It looks like a piece that might be used to attach a crosspiece to??

With air, MAPP, propane, CNG will all burn within @ 100 degrees of each other. For nozzle design you might take a look at model rocketry. If you want to pursue a degree in engineering this would be a place to start as, if I understand what you are looking to do, you will need more than a rudimentary understanding of; chemistry, mathematics and physics to accomplish your goal. MAPP has a definite advantage over propane when mixed with pure oxygen.

You can also do a differential temper, at step 5 above, at the forge. Use a hot piece of metal (or a torch) to heat the spine (carefully) from the spine to the edge. Try to get straw colored along the edge. Don't worry about pushing past blue on the spine.

Thanks. I book marked the web site.

I've been thinking about trying some S5 for cold cuts. Does this forge in the orange - yellow range? What color for the edge temper?

Lots of people are looking for specific parts to refurbish their 400s. If I had it to do over, I'd seriously consider buying a new blower.

It might be less expensive to have the power company run 3 ph power to his shop. If I understand things correctly, the advantage of a VFD would be the ability to change the speed of the hammer. While the rotary phase converter would simply convert single phase power to three phase power?

I am just thinking of residential power as I don't know what input the OP has. If he has 3 ph to his shop, then it makes sense that his current draw would be about half of the single ph but I don't know.

15 hp, 240 v, 110 A ??? I am not sure you can get a single phase VFD for that?

4 minutes ago, SLAG said:

 Jhm,

Thank you for the J.H.M. reference. A very interesting farrier& blacksmithing  site. They describe their anvils as made from malleable iron. Is that malleable cast iron? They do not mention steel anywhere in their anvil description. No steel top? I think I am missing something. Would someone please enlighten me as to what the anvil is made of. Thank en avence.

SLAG.

From my understanding, there are (at least) 3 types of cast iron. Malleable cast iron is alloyed in such a way that it will be tough and hard (HRc @ 52) after casting and heat treatment.

Perhaps just giving a gift card and letting your husband decide on the 'right' anvil. I have tried to get presents for friends in the past where tastes differed and an anvil might be more difficult to return than a sweater.

I'm not sure about the Si, but from what I have read the rest should work OK. Take a small piece of each and see if you can laminate the O-1 inside of the SA-675 GR70 N. What does the N stand for, if anything?

You might use a different steel for your bit. If you have trouble laminating the O-1, try a simpler high carbon steel.

I can remember back, just before the 42nd and 44th Presidents took office that certain gun prices escalated in price. Heck, just a few (@ 7) years ago, a brand new AR-15 could be had for $1200 - $1500. Course, that same rifle can be bought for $800 now. I have a couple of old military C&R rifles that were worth a lot more 'on the bubble' than they are now. With the exception of 'pristine and rare' (very collectable) the others seem to have their 'bubbles'. My BiL made part of his living following these trends.

I am looking at a 64 Impala, frame off restoration for less than $20k. Accounting for inflation, quite a bit less than it sold for new. So, for those that buy when prices have bottomed your observations are spot on. For those that buy when prices have topped, err... not so much.

1 hour ago, H&T said:

store it. What Bo T says doesn't really hold water. I doubt whether prices for blacksmithing equipment will collapse. But even if they do, An anvil is an anvil and its price will be relative to any other anvil. And the same is true if prices rocket. You can't lose by keeping what you've got. But most of the people that I know who have liquidated their equipment either pay heavily to re-equip or they never get back into the game. As has been said before, if when you get back you no longer have the need or interest, then you have got saleable items.

Of course it does. While the value relative to other anvils will not vary much, the value relative to other goods and services could vary a lot. Cash is fast and liquid, the blacksmithing equipment, in storage, represents a time lag from days to months with a very potential net loss if the money is required quickly (This is how pawn shops work).

Is it the parents responsibility to sell the items for the OP? Or to move them, if necessary? While the parents have offered to store the equipment, is it fair for the OP to have them do so and take on the responsibility of caring for it while he is gone?

With the exception of the post vices, new or fabricated equipment can be had at near the same cost that very good used equipment seems to be selling for (at this point in time) on this side of the pond.  

One alternative that has not been mentioned is the possibility of a friend, relative, or good acquaintance using and caring for the equipment while the OP is in Europe.

I'm going against the tide. Unless you are really emotionally attached and if you can get a good price, sell. In 5 or 6 years, these blacksmithing shows might not be as popular as they are now. These trends tend to be periodic and while you probably won't be able to get the exact same equipment you have now, you very well could replace with better. IMO - the used blacksmithing equipment prices are riding a bubble.

While you are practicing making tools, nails, etc. Look for some simple eutectoid steel 1075, 1080, 1084. These steels have the simplest heat treatment and subsequently the greatest probability for a good blade. I think there are some farm implements made from improved steel or something like that with this criteria.

At 350 F you should be OK. If you go too hot you need to worry about the flashpoint of your oil. You could end up with a real mess. From what I have read, if your 1084 is close to fully hardened a 350 F temper will leave the steel a little brittle for most knives and tools. An oven thermometer and pan of sand will go quite a ways in getting an even temper in your kitchen oven. Heat the sand to temperature and bury your tools in the sand.

If it has good rebound, less than a week around here at $450 (for 150#). At $600 could last a month or more, depending on who wants one.