Bo T

I think you did fine. If you don't mind the drive (I have a friend that just hops in his car and drives 300 - 400 miles for fun).

One technique to boost the price of something is to get the buyer to invest in the article before the sale. Getting you to spend the cost of the trip means you have already invested considerabily into the anvil. $600 max after you have seen pictures of the anvil - you have @‌ $300 tied up in the trip. ? What can you get for $900 locally?

A programmable controller will allow you to focus on other activities while going through a multistep normalization process. Or any process that involves ramped heating or cooling of the metal or a timed hold at a certain temperature.

When a steel is forged, there is a possibility of atoms migrating to different areas. The soak time and temperature allows atoms to migrate such that there is a homogeneous mixture throughout the alloy. At a given temperature carbon migrates more rapidly than other atoms (ie, chromium, nickel, etc.) so the soak time and temperature is lower than more complex alloys. The simple steels form fine pearlite more readily than the more complex alloys. Cooling in the forge, ashes, or vermiculite is usually slow enough that course pearlite won't form. This aids in the workability of the cold steel. Alloys, need to be cooled differently to attain this goal.

Rubys and saphires are aluminum oxide with some trace elements added. It is harder than quartz.

You might also try an everyday oven thermometer. Use the sand to level out the temperature fluctuations.

The advertisement was pulled the day after I first posted. But, it is up again. I gave them a call and was told it was made locally by a gentleman named Gene Schulz. It appears to be sand cast and milled. The person I talked with said it was steel. But....you know how that goes sometimes. If I get the chance, and it is still available, I'll check the rebound,

Anyone know anything about Schulz anvils? It's listed at 280#, has a double step to the horn, 2 round holes in back (one small) and a hardy hole in front with a small ?table? on the right. Looks cast. If it is OK I can post the CL link.

Wolfshieldrx, Your strikers look pretty interesting and I like your fork, specially since Frosty suggested the use as a candle holder and roasting fork. I like multiuse tools. Would that large (lightening) awl be referred to as a canoe awl? Leastwise I hope it's an awl? What would some uses be for it?

I'm an indoctrinate myself so any corrections or additional information will be helpful as I am looking myself. It appears to me that the anvil has a top plate? From what I have read this is a good thing if it has good and uniform rebound and as long as the plate is thicker than 1/4" or so?

That is a good link. One area that I couldn't find much information on was the transition temperature vs hardness for given steels. My guess, based upon the little information that I could find was that 15N20 could work down to @‌ -40 or -50 C. Perhaps the best bet is to use 2 knives, a soft one for outside and a hard one for inside.

I've worked with LN in the past and sometimes dribbled a little on my hand or arm. There is a sting from the expanding nitrogen gas but no damage. I think a large bubble would form around the hot steel causing a lot of the LN to blow out of the dewar. This could cause injury to the person quenching the blade. It would take a while and a lot of LN to get the blade down to cryogenic temperatures. Because of uneven cooling the blade would probably warp on its way to hardening and it might crack. My guess is from uneven cooling. I'd guess again that the blade would cool more rapidly in oil or water. One danger from LN vaporizing is due to suffocation from displaced oxygen so a well ventilated area is important. 

I read up on this a couple of months ago. Nickel seems to be the alloy of choice for cold weather work. I don't know how workable it is but 15N20 seems to be a good choice for lower temperatures that most will be out in. Alloy seemed to be the first consideration followed by good grain refinement and heat treat.

I have been going over the 2 sets of plans for Clay Spencers treadle hammers. The original (1984) and the current set being sold by ABANA. I'm most likely years out from building one. I am leaning towards the earlier one as my fabrication skills are somewhat lacking. If I understand it correctly, I should be able to use top and bottom tools as long as I size them correctly?

I would like to give a big THANKS to Ohio Rusty. Got home yesterday and I had a box with some spring steel, a piece of forged steel showing what a striker should look like part way through, a finished striker, some flint, and instructions on how to put it all together:) Thanks Ohio!

Bo T

George,

I'm a few years shy of selling the tools I make blacksmithing. It is something I could make as part of a demonstration. A piece of wood and the remains of an old rawhide bone and the awl = a brief excursion into the past.

Frank,

Thanks for the link.

Bo

Well, I've got some work ahead of before this summer. I'll focus on the oval strikers, although I don't think I can get my (pit forge on wheels) hot enough to weld with. I'll just set the ends together. I am excited about the 'lightening awls'. They seem to be quick with a solid link to the past. Thanks Rashelle.

LawnJockey, Thanks for the lead on the Bents Fort historical site and my net goal is to track down a copy of Southwest Colonial Ironwork per your and george m's suggestion.

Bo T

I have used the Rhino anvil several times. Incandescent Iron Works sells them. I am not experienced enough to talk about the 'feel' of the anvil but Steve has used them for years in his classes and they seem to have held up really well. They are made of an air hardening cast steel that is tough, through hardened, and a purported HRc @‌ 56. I haven't tested the rebound, Steve thought it was high (90%). They are cast in Airway Heights, WA.

Bo

I have read more of Russells book and have a few questions. The oval striker is described in some detail, but a couple of items I'll start with weren't. At least I didn't see anything much beyond the drawing. They are the 'moccasin and canoe' awls. Any information on the @‌ size of these tools? Also, when using mild steel would a blacksmith 'work harden' tools like these or nails by shaping below forging temperature?

Thanks,

Bo

Thanks for the lead on the treadle hammer. I am going to track down some leads on the plans for the Marx-Gade design. Treadles seem to make more sense than trying to hold a hot piece of metal between your legs while hammering on it.

Bo

A lot of good information here. I picked up a beat up pair of tongs at a muzzle loading get together at the Coeur d'Alene fairgrounds. I suppose that I'll start my repair apprenticeship fixing those. The striker I made didn't work worth a darn. So I'll make a few of those. At least until I get one that throws sparks. "Firearms, Traps, and Tools of the Mountain Men" is a real good read but I've only managed to cover bits and pieces of it.

Thanks again,

Bo

Alan,

You're right. I was referring to hot working steel - like flattening or drawing out. The opinion that I read indicated that, increasing the power of the blow required increasing the height of the drop, and decreased the number of blows per heat. But, it seems a drop hammer might be the easiest to build and one could always increase the weight of the hammer?

Jim,

I'm not sure. If it works off of leg power then it is a step in the right direction. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like the hammer follows your foot down and hits with the same force that your foot presses down with?

Thanks for the info, Rashelle. If I get the chance I'll make the journey to the other side of the state. But this year is cramped (time wise).

Bo

OK, I'll give that a try. Thanks

Bo