Andrew T

John,

there is a drawing in the Norwegian book "Klassiskt Jarnsmide" that shows this setup on a mechanical hammer for axe forging.

What alloy and hardness are you thinking of for holder and insert dies?

Set it on a 6" thick wood base so you don't have to bend over so much to see what your doing.

Use epoxy to set high strength threaded rod into your slab so you nut it down securely, that hammer will try to tip itself over when you run it hard.

If the slab doesn't hold, then cut out a rectangle and do a proper foundation block.

You did a great job on your #2.

I'd like to see a video of that 300 hitting something hard!

This is the main bearing from a #7, it exits and enters from the rear of the hammer.

Ken, great video, thanks for posting it.

I'd love to see a video of you giving that hammer a workout.

I was a little hasty with my response, I forgot you don't have split bearings, so you have to pull or push the pulley off with the shaft still mounted on the machine. I agree with southshore's advice, keep cleaning and looking. It seems like it had to originally be a slip fit for the builder to be able to assemble it.

Here's a link to guy who striped and reassembled his Dupont/Fairbanks, there is a photo of the bare shaft on this page
http://www.bladeforu...manual.../page4

I've pressed off the crank plate off a 50 LG and a 100lb Bradley, they both took all of a 20 ton press. I had to drill holes around the perimeter of the shaft and use heat before they came. I'm not surprised you broke the flange, although I would think the belt pulley would come off easier than a crank plate.

"WILL NOT GO LOWER ON THE PRICE, HAVE SEEN OTHERS SELL, IN EXACT SAME CONDITION FOR UPWARDS OF $7500" BS

There is a good chip out of the drive pulley, who knows what other issues there are. It is a center pulley overhead line shaft machine, unlike the print where he shows the more desirable rear pulley model.
So, just add another $1000 for a 5 or 7.5hp single phase motor, magnetic starter, belting, and steel for a power tower, and you'll be all set.... after you transport it, pour a foundation, raise it up on an oak pad, re-pour the Babbitt, make new bronze c-shaped bushings for the toggle links, fix any broken missing parts, have a new pitman bearing machined, build a jack shaft to slow your 1740rpm motor down, put fresh leather on the brake, and reassemble it... then you'll really have somethin.

The right hand side ram guide of my Beaudry is bronze.

Thanks Randy, one more question. 5hp at what RPM?

Randy, what size are the cylinders, and what type/size is the pump?

Thanks, Andrew

Problems to look for are cracked/broken ram hidden by grease, and excessive wear on the screw and nut.

The 8 foot arm will take up a lot of room and don't seem as handy as the presses with wheels on top.
I have a #6 from Old World Anvils (4 start screw)and I like it and use it much more than my large old 2 start press.

If the press in Utah had a wheel and a 3 start screw I'd pay $1500 or more (it looks super stout). I wonder if you could get a new #5 or #6 for that kind of money, I think that would be more usable for general work.


This is a photo of my old 2 start screw press with new paint.

In my local steel supplier handbook they are listed as 1055

One of my favorites.

Newer style LGs have wooden blocks, older have leather pads, I've had them both.

You need to oil it enough to make an oil streak on your ceiling.

My buddy George.

You are getting a real quick action out of that hammer, love the Beaudry brake and the tight woggle of the ram.
Please tell us about the drive you set up. What kind of slip belting, jackshaft/motor drive pulley are you using?

Thanks, Andrew

"This rail will have a antique finish with a brass cap".

Danger, If your willing to share, I would love to know about your "antique finish".

Thanks, Andrew

Lamey, nice looking hammer. What's the dovetail height on your dies ? On my #7 the dovetail is about 1 5/8" tall.
Yours look taller, has the ram and sow block been remachined ? The upper die on mine is cut out of a 4"x 4"x 8" block, what size are yours? If you use the taller dies (which I wish I had BTW) won't you lose 4" of forging height?
I'm also curious about your bearings, mine is one piece solid bronze. Do you know what the buttons are, graphite?

Andrew

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gortonmill/

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/machinery-manuals-brochures/gorton-mill-manuals-131289/


You have to sign in in for the yahoo groups. I don't know if the Practical Machinist link has what you want but it is a good place to ask questions.

Matthew, could you share with us what the material is, and the durometer of your new rubbers?

Thanks, Andrew

Tony, what's the size of the upper die?

Thanks for the responses, I'll aim for about 4".

Andrew

John, mine will be similar to your second photo. Are you at 3" to 3.5" clearance under that one?
Thanks for the feed back so far. Additional comments are encouraged, I'll check back tomorrow.

Andrew