Andrew T

McNeilus Steel lists their PTO shafting as 1045

On my coal forge I dropped a second pipe down to about 12" above the fire pot, draws great, much better than before.

You said your stack draws well with paper right under the pipe. Drop another piece of pipe down as close as you can get. It doesn't have to be solidly attached, mine is hanging on a wire with about an inch gap between it and the main pipe. I think that is why side drafts can work well, the heat is very close to the chimney opening.

To fix this on a 50 I rebuilt years ago I trimmed a 1/2" or so off the the rear slide as recommended by Sid, IIRC. It is also possible for the ram to hit the spring (bad).  More compression on the spring will limit ram movement.  If your spring is tired it would be good time to order a new one. I agree, call Little Giant and get their advice.

I like Nuge's "starfish"design.

Andrew, thanks for the comments. The small rectangle rivets started as hex head bolts that I forged square, the back side are set round. The larger tenon end was upset with hammer and torch and then I used a flat ended punch to forge in the angles and keep the edges in bounds.

Doesn't Steve Hackbarth in Baraboo have a Sahinler for sale?

My plans are for bolt/weld on die faces and other tooling. I have a shaper and mill and a good 100lb hammer.

Slicing up 1.375" x 6" will be easier than this 6"x 6" bar of 4140.

It's 8660.  http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?MatGUID=34b70d0935204621a71abb8ea4aaf4f4

I had it tested here  http://www.qcml.com

It's a nickle, chrome, moly, steel with .60 carbon.

I've heard of 8620 but not 8660. It's interesting to learn what was actually used in an industrial application. It will make heat treating this steel more enjoyable for me.

Your hammer looks rock solid.

Bruce M, I like your system.
Care to share more photos or observations of your die setup?

That hammer is very similar to my 100lber. I like mine, much more hammer than the 50LG I had.
I had a longer shaft made and put the jack shaft/motor down low behind the hammer.
You have bronze main shaft bearings? Very cool. I haven't seen that on a Compact, I wounder if that's factory or a mod?
The toggle links on mine are one piece of round rod bent to a rectangular loop and welded together.
One option for rubbers is buying urethane rod and cutting to length and drilling a hole. Bruce Wallace wanted me to pay the entire cost of having a mold made to get a set for my hammer, I don't remember getting a quote but I assume it's expensive. Please keep us informed about what you do for rubbers. I believe Wallace does have a incomplete 125lber for parts.

Here's a previous discussion on rubbers

My first step for cleaning old machinery is a putty knife, then move on to other methods.

Even if the machine doesn't need repairs (why was it taken apart ?) I'd add $2000 for 5-7.5hp single phase motor, magnetic starter, jack shaft, motor stand, belting, transport, and solid foundation.

If it were mine I'd also get the crusty paint off , repaint, redo sloppy bearings, get a fresh spring from Sid ( he had some for that specific make/model) and fix what ever the old owner bunged up.

I imagine that would be a great hammer with a rebuild, I would just try to get it as cheap as possible.

$800 for the part pile, then a couple grand, and a bunch of time to make it run.

George, you may be right, although the low level of corrosion makes me think they aren't particularly old.

Only springs I can remember on a rail car are coils. When a crane lifts the trucks and axles the springs sometimes separate. They are easily re-inserted into the proper location using cranes etc. In our area we have witnessed several train derailments so watching the cranes work along with their properly trained crew was an interesting event. Most impressive to me was their large cranes they used although they were very short. At the same time I was working with cranes and draglines that were longer yet lighter in activity.


Carry on

great find!!!! i would not worry about exact comp forge some tools with it!!!

I can save you some trouble.

It's iron.

Are the saws in the background a clue ?

Found this at the scrapyard, any idea what it came from ?
Can any one recommend a shop that will do a cheap chemical analysis ?

Willey, here are the measurements from my #7. Mine uses a wedge instead of a set screw for the pitman adjuster.

I would also like to see the damage. Is there a way to determine if the part is cast steel or iron?

Punch press.

Looks good!

I have this press for sale, I'm 1 hour west of La Crosse.
Can't get pm to work call 563 382 4907 if interested.