Andrew T

Where is the crack?

Photos!

Nicely done. Looks like that press could do it cold.

Dave was banned here,  you can find him on youtube and the facebook power hammer page.

Patrick's idea sounds good.

If you had a complete die machined you could go with a 4"x8" flat die, still nice and big, but less cost than a 6"x 8" combo die.

Dave Hammer and Ken Zitur  both have a model E.

Little Giant in Nebraska had a spring a Fairbanks E several years ago, they may still have it if you want a fresh one.

Freddie, that is a fast press!

Can you tell us about the pump and the basics of how you built the press?

Have the iron castings been machined to take the bronze bearings? Are they pinned or screwed to the bore?

If you ever take the caps off please take some photos. 

I'm sure other Beaudry heads will chime in.

Bring a LED flashlight look inside the ram and check if the rollers have frozen and worn groves on the interior of the ram.

Check the frame around the anvil hole for cracks.

Check the frame ram guides for scoring/ impact damage from the die key.

Check the frame between the ram guides for cracks from running the guides loose.

I'd say $1000 for a hammer that needs machine work on the sow block (new dies?) motor, magnetic starter, slip belting, jack shaft and stand. A clutch model might increase it's value, a busted sow block would decrease it. I'd say the value of a 100lb Beaudry, LG, Bradley with all the work done by your average person is the about the same, around $4000.

I have chunks of alloy steel from the scrap yard that were magnatized by the crane magnet.

After heating to red and cooling no more magnetism.

I'll PM you the contact info for a guy that had what he called a 75lb Edsil Barr air hammer.

Is it similar to this hammer?

Bill, thanks for the tip the local JD dealer has it on the shelf for $5 per one lb bottle.

Made from 2x8s with saw kerfs and steel tabs supporting the shelves

More storage. I know it's messy but it keeps almost half the tools of the floor.

I agree with Menalak I don't like paint on hot work tools either. Clean it off with a power wire brush and use it.

It won't work, I have a 100lb Compact and it is fundamentally the same as other mechanical hammers it doesn't have a depth stop.

A punch press has an adjustable repeating stroke depth, I wonder one could be made to work, with the right dies and forging sequence.

Possibly use the Bradley for the initial forging and then a press or roller for final sizing.

Mark Krause has a booklet describing Nazel valving that is directed at building a shop made hammer. I got my booklet from Bob Bergman.  I think there is a video floating around that shows a hammer Mark built operating at the 2000? ABANA conference.

Daniel,

Your press sounds nice and quiet could tell us what kind of pump and motor you are using?

Mange tak

I would be interested in buying a book that covers various press designs, not limited to just tooling, and yes I have a copy of Batson's booklet.  I would like to see Steve's contributions in your book regardless of the background.

I saw one of those at an auction, it was called a "Balding Beaver" does it have a #30 spindle taper? 

Tell us how you like your American Rotary.

Tack weld together cold.

Heat red/yellow in forge, mig weld while hot with standard wire.

Let cool.

To harden heat back up to yellow and cool in air or in front of fan.

Test that hardening took place with a file. I find I need to cut through a thin soft surface to get to hard steel.

To temper heat again to the faintest red then air cool.

I think Nuge and I like the same kind of machines.

These are some old photos show some random tooling mostly for bending.

You can see part of the 3"x3"x7" V block I use for my anvil to get things up to height. The adjustable square and round bars are nice for a lot of things.

The bar I'm curving is 1/2" x 3 1/3".

This one seems the most active.

We are forgetting the most obvious solution.

Buy the hammer and let it sit in your yard for 20 years.

http://blacksmith.org/forum/power-hammers-and-presses/new-addition-family/#p34528

From the photo it looks like a wider belt will fit. It seems to me a full width belt would be best. I use leather on my Bradley, works great.

I also think you should put full width centered matching dies on it.

Do you have away to drill and tap for a bolt on dovetail?