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I Forge Iron

natkova

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Everything posted by natkova

  1. Should i nail some wood strips over it or buy some tacks. Now i don't know.
  2. They work , but I think they could work better, I need to buy some tacks so I can seal them more
  3. Lol this is funny . Like.leather is too strong for those boards.
  4. I think it is too much risky to do that.
  5. Too much twisted. A lot's of wood would be removed unfourtunantly.
  6. Thomas I have issue with board it is not.so.flat, I cant find flap that would sit flat on it. I can make another bottom board it is not hard, but I dont want , I want to keep this board as lon aa I can, I want to restaurate it, use old parts as more as I can.
  7. I redo valves, I used tehnique that is used in fireplecebellows just put one piece of leather over that would qct as gasket. Why ?Because board is not flat, so flaps cant sit on it properly I have hide but.I.hesistate to attach it on bellows, I had bad.expirience with bellows before, I check everything just to.make sure, and I noticed that.mine 8mm (millimeters) staples sre too short to hold cowhide, I think.I.need.something long as 1/2 inch.
  8. I checked today i have leakage on flaps, i wont put leather in it, problem is because board is twisted, flaps dont sit flat on it, i think i would need to somehow glue some board on this board which have badder flatter shape. This create place where small bit's of air can leak, i don't want to put leather and see disappointment. Middle board shape is better, but i don't like how those flaps are hinged i think i need to work on them again. In previous setup, there were only some kind of leather strips without even using boards. Guy who made those bellows used leather an some xxxx metal striping to hold that leather. Iam thinking to build valves like this guy did .
  9. I made ribs today, I tried old fashioned way, but as iam a litle bit lazy and wanted to save good piece of lumber and lot's of time I used board instead of lumber pieces that are glued and niled together. Here because midle board eas splited a litle bit I disnt wanted to risk it spliting even more , so I used one small blocks on two siedes under midle board nailed them to baord and drilled them, than I punched those rods in that blocks instead of middle board as you can see
  10. I think I need to but somekind of frame that is level as compered to the flaps, now it is not leveled I used to skip that part, I would take picture on sunday and see what can be done, so I dont need to rush with covering I gor these two hides for 30 dollars 60 convertibilr mark, wich is used in Bosnia and Herzegovina. To be honest I ignored and I guesed that flaps would cover all of board but board is twistes.
  11. It is 5 mm thick about quarter of inch , eood.is not to heavy, its thick but not so heavy for flaps I think. Would twist board make me a problem for gasket/valve? Board Is twisted like this ( and flaps come like this on top I( would air leak underneath I do not know I think it wont that much , but i am not sure.
  12. I should stich it noo I stiched one side but other was like it is not worth it. I bought two hides like this, now I have them too many I can make another bellows.
  13. Stay tuned, i did some work on it, i painted wood instaled new valves, iam waiting now for hide.
  14. I stiched one side side of bellows, next i would glue that, i find it more easy to stich than glue than again sttich. I used somekind varnish for wood, this is beech wood. I made one valve on middle board, put leather on it so flaps can seal.
  15. IF leather don't work for some reason i would give a try with those air bed material. IF it is good for airbad why it won't be good for bellows
  16. Tomorow i would.use some shoe shining cream.to moisturize leather, and lots off stiching would.be made.
  17. Reason why i said it is interesting because middle board is same size as top and bottom, nozzle was made from one solid block that was save and basically attached to middle board, nozzle is not part off middle board it is attachment, (in books and in instructions on iforgeiron, i saw middle board that was way much longer than this, basically middle board is the same size as top and bottom, just it is somehow fitted in nozzle, and that 's it. As about valve it would be harder cause wood is not flat, i would might plane it a little bit, but i do not know or i would use some bend shaped valve, cause like i said board is a bend. Sou you think is it wasting if i try to stitch these one? I don't think that i need ribs for this one or hooves as you call them, because bellows are too narrow , i mean one foot wide, i don't see problem with it sticking outside a little bit. Those nails that i pulled out of bellow i believe they were hand forged, they had tapered shape, i think they were indeed hand made, you can't buy those in factory. As about middle board i would nail one pice of wood on top of it for better support, because hole where were rods it can split i saw i would just nail or screw some pice of wood so it won't chip away at corner of bellows. I don't have all time for those bellows right know, but i think they might work, My one mistake was i wanted to restore wood , i won't do that anymore either, more you plane and remove root from it, it get thiner, i think i should concentrate on sewing this two pieces of leather instead, i think would can be leaved as it is, even if it root and decay i could easy change that, make new one, i won't touch wood to much, so i can test bellows how leather work and would they inhale top chamber. One thing which is new to me bottom chamber was twice larger than top chamber.
  18. I will see what i would do to it, i hope that leather is restorable. There are couple of holes, valves need to be made new, wood is in bad condition some planing sanding could make job easy, but i don't guarantee anything, It was with shiping cost around 20 dollars.
  19. I saw this and i tought i should share vith you, bellows dont have valves,leather need couple stiching, but midle board is interesting to me how it is mounted
  20. I hope i would just have to put some leather patches on those holes, bellows price was realy cheap, i would feel bad if sombady else bought it for decoration purposes. If not anything i would have some nice project to work on, i would sand wood maybe use somekind color i think i would bring it to life again. I feel exited because this is my first leather (cowhide) bellows that i have.
  21. I noticed that you can use airtight material as you want, but if it is not hard and less flexable it won't work, material for bellows need to be elastic and airtight but not too much elastic, because of durability i would say it need to be tough almoust hard to squeze air from it, if it is material like nylon wich is airtight and waterproo bellows won't work than again. It is airtight and all that stuff but it is not hard material to squeze air from. It need to be as hard as it is elastic so it can squeze air and inhale top chamber. How many ounces it have it is important but i don't know a lot's in that stuff.
  22. I ordered them, now i will see what would come from this gambling. They seems small about one foot wide 40 cm and long 91 cm 3 foot with nozzl.
  23. Yes you have right, i didn't noticed that valve collapsed by gravity. I think he pictured that on purpose . I think that he reversed sides up down bottom up those are double lung bellows, you can see by rods. Top chamber don't have hole in it, but it is not pictured, i cant see condition of top chamber. It is faced on ground.
  24. I don't want to run for this. It is too cheap, and to tempting to buy. I saw this on internet. i didn't saw it in person wich is bad.
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