ThorsHammer82

How hard is it to adjust the screw to change your jaw opening?

need a little guidance. I got about 30 RR Spikes from the event staff at my work. They used them for a manufacturing event they did as part of their centerpieces. and I'd like to make something to say thank you. I've got an idea of attempting to turn them into a bottle opener/corkscrew. Something that would suit both the girls on staff, and their guys at home. My idea is to turn the head into ah bottle opener, and the tips of the spikes would get turned into the corkscrews with a twist in between. And the corkscrew of course would be folded under to make a T handle shape. 

First question. 1, how ambitious am I being as a novice. 

Second question. How does one go about making a usable corkscrew?

On 11/19/2015 at 9:33 PM, ausfire said:

OK, so here's a few of what I have come up with so far. I would like to make a display board for visitors ... a long way to go to get anywhere near John's pics, but it's a start.

I really like the fork at the bottom and the daggers at the top. I'd be interested in hearing how you made those. The back scratcher looks like it'd rip skin off if you got carried away. And I'm know of a couple people that would love that. I recently got about 30 spikes I'm itching to play around with. I've got to make some thank you items from them. as the spikes were given to me. I lack for shop time. Just need to find a way to get out there more often.

do you're cleaning and grinding then throw it back in the forge for heat/peening to get the forged surface back, then add your finish.

Yes Michael, I'll be adding either a leather backer, or sealing it in something.

I've gotten good results with the finish when I've quenched in used motor oil, and then wire wheeled clean. Nice silver finish.

My thoughts on the projects, a woven brass, copper, steel bracelet would be real nice, nice enough that I'm going to be making one for my wife as soon as I can get a chance. At least brass/copper. Not sure I've got small enough steel rod.

Some times you've got to use mechanical advantage. A boom hoist in the back of the truck for lifting and lowering, and a hand truck for getting it in and out of the apartment/storage.

Cheap Doesn't mean you don't buy, it means you only buy when it's worth it. when something is worth the price, it's never to expensive.

I was heating large stock for hoops, thus the amount of coal. by the time I was done (nearing 10pm) the forge drum was glowing red.

I understand that all coal has clinkers, was just looking for suggestions on ways to minimize the amount. I'll look into the bullet grate, seeing as how my grate is now encased in clinker. it was just a floor drain cover thrown into the bottom of the forge anyway.

I may set up a screen to get rid of some of the fine dust too. And next time I get coal (only one source in the area) I'll scoop from the pile, and not from the edge.

So, Either I'm doing something wrong, or I got some pretty crappy coal.

So I've had my coal forge for about two years now. I don't get to play with it as much as I'd like. But it is what it is. I was using it last night, and went through about two fire place ash buckets of coal. When I went to pull the klinkers out at the end of the night The whole bottom of the brake drum forge, along with my grate came out leaving a small pile of burning coke/coal left in the forge. The Clinker was red and glowing still, but I wouldn't say it was burning.

So now I've got to figure out why. The coal seems to have a lot of dust in it, I do my best to shake off/strain out the dust when I'm hand loading the forge, and the bucket from my larger container. I know some people just leave their coal in a pile outside and don't even bother caring if it gets wet. would it be beneficial to "wash" my coal to help prevent klinkers? any other suggestions in how to minimize the amount of klinkers?

what's the plan for the brackets to hold it down better? If it where mine, I'd get some large angle iron. drill holes in it for mounting to the stump, and for passing bolts through to the side of the anvil. Weld some nuts on and use large bolts to clamp it in place. I'd be interested to hear what others would do.

Thank you frosty.

Admins, is there any way we can get this to be a sticky?

unless you're 100% certain that you'll never want to move it, I'd make it mobile. not permanent. that way it can be removed for your entertainment and brought back out when needed.

cold here is 20F-40F rarely see less than 20F. so if I need to work, It's a couple extra layers, and start with a jacket on. otherwise I don't do anything differently.

I will be adding poison to my list of must adds to the shop for this winter.

Otherwise, I'll put a space heater out there to keep the damp out, and everything else is business as usual. if I can keep the damp out, everything else seems to do just fine through the winter. We rarely see low temps so the quench tub rarely sees more than a thin layer of ice. When it does get cold we might see 1" of ice. 2" at most. When it gets that cold I empty the tub. Rain will fill it up again for me.

How much lifting force are you expecting to apply to the vise mount?

If it were mine, I'd either do a Hardy like Frost described that was welded to the full side opposite the radius. That way you can still roll it on the side to use the radius for drawing. Or I'd figure out a way to cut one into the wide side face, and just lay the anvil on its side to use the hardy. Again still allowing you to roll to use the radius side. Beautiful anvil if you ask me.

The weight and size (using the palate boards as a reference) looks like it's a decent little travel Anvil.

Looks good enough to my minimally educated eye. Those cut outs look kinda like they were using the Anvil for a swage for throwing shoes.

Remember, Early smiths had rocks as anvils. It doesn't have to look like an "Anvil", to be an anvil.

It's a shame the old pictures don't work anymore.

What size are the pieces you are working?

Forbidden

That rotating Anvil/swage is awesome.

ouch. that's harsh.

Charles, that needs to be in the gems and pearls thread!

so the mount is mounted to a plate, that is then screwed into the sides of the post? is this because the top of the post wasn't strong enough for lags? or because the lags being used you didn't think would be long enough? or maybe just because you wanted something solid you could beat on if you needed to?