urnesBeast

This #325 monster is more than two of us can really lift. I had to take it up some stairs, we had to lift it one stair at a time. That was about 9 inches. I figure the anvil stand will be more like two feet up or so.

How do you lift a monster like this?

I think that I can tie into my roof beams through the drywall with these:

3/8 In. x 4-1/2 In. Stainless Steel Screw Eyebolt

• Bolt Name : Eye
• 325 lbs. safe working load
• Use with rope up to 7/8 in.
• Will not rust when exposed to the elements
  

I asked a similar question here:

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/shop-layout-ideas-wanted-12757/

I had a 10x12 to start. It burned to the ground. I replaced it with with the 10x19 in the thread above (still constructing as of Aug 2009).

The original is twice the size you are talking about, but for just plain forging I was really only using 1/3 the space anyways.

I recommend the Hofi side draft chimney.

Made a drawing of what I propose. A second post vice for dad (or a machinist vice on Dad's side) would work out pretty well too.

I also attached pic of a small smithy at an old mill house. It was mostly "fake" (I looked inside when smith was not there, from the scrap I saw around, he only made s-hooks for tourists) the hardy tools were too big for the anvil, so I know most of it was "for show".

It was big enough to house the important stuff, though he was primarily outdoors while forging.

This is attached design is similar to how I worked when having a guest smith.

-doug

Gents:

Apologies in advance for the long question! After many years of planning and scheming, I am finally able to set up a VERY SMALL blacksmithing space. I know in advance this space is way too small to be optimal, but I'd appreciate some suggestions. I don't plan on doing architectural iron. This setup has two purposes: edge tools (chisels, carving gouges, knives) and facilitating my young son's interest in the craft. It won't be great, but it's what I can get!

The space is just under 6' wide x 10' long. The 10' length runs North/South. There is a door in the southwest corner, and a window in the South wall. Wall height is 8' w/gable roof.

Now, I have another workspace that is larger, but it is of such a nature that I can never have any fire of any type for any reason in it. But it does house a lathe, grinder, bandsaw, other tools of that type. So though I would LIKE to have these close to the anvil, I don't need to fit them in the forging space.

I'm right handed. Given the size and layout of the space, and where the light and air come from, I am having a hard time figuring out where the forge and anvil should be positioned.

Also, ventilation is a concern. I can penetrate the roof as needed, and I can drywall/steel sheath the walls as needed: this is a 2x4/OSB room. I've been thinking that downdraft forge may be best. I've seen (ye olde) pictures of them, but don't find any modern references.

How do you all think I should lay this out? Also, any specific suggestions about a coal/coke forge would be appreciated. Note that I have easy access to 3100 degree castable hardface and 2600 and 2800 degree rated castable insulating refractory. Thus, I can build things (a forge?) able to resist fire if building my own forge looks to be the best option.

I am just learning to weld, and I am in need of a new anvil stand. I suspect I will start with a stump and then weld a stand as shown here. I am at the point in welding of "Unconscious Incompetence" (I don't know enough to know how bad I am at it!)

I plan to do something like Hofi or Avadon have done. I figure I need to buy the base since it is way thicker than I can cut.

How will I know my welding is up to snuff enough to accomplish this task? I really do not need a #325 anvil falling.

-Doug

Brand EuroAnvil (Euroanvils - Traditional European Anvils - Quality Anvils at Discount Prices)
Weight #335
Condition Newly cast
Price paid and year $985 + $200 shipping, 2009

Next to last one of this size cast in Europe. Production moving stateside now.

I searched on Craig's list Boston and found an industrial cleaning place gets their cleaning powder in five gallon buckets. They are happy to sell them, with lids for cheap. I can store more coal than I can haul in the truck at once now.

You might be able to find similar deals in your area, it would make for easy to store, and transport coal.

-Doug

PS. Any Boston based smiths want to buy some buckets?

Frosty,

Weighing it and calculating volume, that is brilliant!

I just thought of another way, in case the density of the two materials is different:

* Submerge in as small necked, narrow and tall of a bucket as possible.
* Fill to top with water.
* Remove piece via string I forgot to mention above
* Insert rod into bucket until water is at top like before.

This covers volume directly. The less the diameter at top, the easier it will be to see the change in volume.

I made a forge out of refractory cement. That price sounds about what I paid for it last year (2008).

Some things I would do different:

* My design was too deep a pot
* My air pipe was too small
* I expected the cement to hold the vertical air pipe with friction only. Not good.
* I got water on the hot firepot several times, it started to crack.
* the form was made of 2x4s. They were a pain to take off, so I left them on. They start to charcoal after about six hours of continuous forging.
* I would reinforce the concrete with wire and mesh

This being said, the refractory cement did not get clinker stuck to it (though the clay I used to raise the bottom did...) All in all, it was a good, but expensive choice for me. Good if you do not have the ability to make your own firepot in metal

-Doug

Apparently the heat treating part of blacksmithing goes back to before metalworking:

Early Humans Shaped Stone Tools with Fire : Discovery News

I have never used a hydraulic press, but I am interested also.

Here is a 35 ton. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

since I do not know much of this area, I have to ask "Would this work for forging?"

-Doug

@avadon

That is an excellent idea. I remember seeing those in the background of some forging videos.

Thanks.
Doug

The coupon I got was printed directly from Lowes.com. From the link, it was obvious that this person had a bot that was signing up for the coupons automaticailly (the e-mail address embeded in the link was formulaic ie. (email address removed)

I think the coupon is a legit "New in Town" coupon, just gotten under false pretenses and sold.

-Doug

Since I am about to purchase a new drill press, I thought I would look for coupons online for Lowes. Turns out some people have figured out a a way to get coupons for 10% off, and then sell them on-line for about a buck.

I like to know how something is done before I get scammed (even for a buck). It seems like what they are doing is filling in a form on lowes.com for the "New mover into the neighborhood" and then selling the link that they get to you.

Lowes seems to have it set up such that when you fill out this form you get a link to the coupon a week later (to avoid people filling it out for instant gratification right before heading to the store)

The other way they do this is more questionable. They are using their employee discount coupons on-line for Home Depot (they have a unique code), then selling them on eBay telling you NOT to use them at HD (they won't work) but to use them at Lowes because they accept competitors coupons upto 10% off.

$40 off a $400 drill press soudns good for a buck to me!

-Doug

I have seen much smaller scale pipe done on a hydrolic press. How long is the pipe? The Foldforming book has examples of this in copper.

-Doug

After searching around, I had three major choices:

1.) Good bench mount, put on a pedestal ~$100
2.) Harbor Freight high end floor mount ~$300
3.) Delta floor mount ~$360 (10% off coupon from $400)

I am strongly leaning towards the Delta:
Delta at Lowe's: 10-Amp 16 Speed Drill Press

The swing is long enough to go through 2x4 the 3.5 inch way, important for the first project. The reviews seem strong for it. The market for used drill presses around here runs in the $250+ range for presses that do not seem discounted very well. It looks like they hold value pretty well.

-Doug

The window protective film sounds like an excellent idea. Guards and being careful only go so far.

Also, the contracto said sealing to the floor does not work, the compound drys out he says. Might do it myself...

-Doug

It is looking very much like I will be getting a bench top and making a stand. The first job is drilling through 2x4s the 3.5inch direction. Seems no drill presses have that kind of movement, so I will be starting on the press and finishing with a drill- unless there is a trick...


How can something not fit under a bench drill. Is it because the table can not lower far enough? Can't the table be moved aside when needed?

Doug

Is ti just a matter of running the thing and building a box wherever I see the sparks a flying? Seems simple enough. Good idea with the drywall, I should have plenty of that left. Should build it right onto the stand.

Doug

My new shop is basically all window on one side. I am concerned that if the grinders are near the windows, they will quickly become pitted.

How do you all deal with that? Any good guard designs, or do you mostly just place them in a safe place?

So, I asked a similar question for grinders and got some good answers. As I am looking around for a drill press, I find that the floor models are significantly more expensive. How are they really different?

Also, with a longer steel pole can a benchtop be converted easily?

Thanks,
Doug

Let me second the motion. These are excellent books. Once the smithy is opperational again, I plan to do a self-study course working through them. The first should be particularly useful since I only have a hammer and anvil right now and need to make everything else after the fire...

IANAL, but you could find your local Notary Public and have them stamp your design. Easier than the method above.

How about everyone keeps the fruit of their labor, the government does not try to "do good" but simply restrains people from initiating force against one another or from committing fraud on one another.

The "Invisible Hand" has done more to stimulate economy than some bureaucrat confiscating the fruits of my labor and giving said fruits to someone else.

-Doug

I got the exact opposite advice on buying blacksmithing tools. Tell them you know exactly what it is for. If they want $100, tell them: I will give you $80 for it, and I will actually *use* it.

Seems to me that would be enough of a story for the dealer to justify the discount.

-Doug

NO! NO! NO! That is dangerous!

If you heat the hammer, the head will fly off mid-stroke because the metal will expand in the fire but the wood will not... Try soaking the handle in the slack tube before heating.

Doug

So 300 people do not need to do a search (August 2009)

blacksmiths anvil made of WOOD on eBay (end time 08-Aug-09 20:00:00 BST)