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I Forge Iron

urnesBeast

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Posts posted by urnesBeast

  1. Now, I put my roofing copper through the forge when I am doing fold forming, but the long 'cold' fire of the smithy fire I had a few months back turned the roll of copper brittle.

    Is there any cure for this? I tried annealing it, but it was still unusable.

    Any use other than scrap buyer for this?

    Thanks,
    Doug

  2. It is not clear to me if the collar becomes forge welded with the bundle or not. I imagine it can go both ways.

    For a 3x3 grid, how many heats to weld this? I can imagine that you get some slightly stuck on the first heat, that you confirm these on the second heat, getting some incidental sticking in the other direction. The third and fourth heat is rotated 90 and similar process.

    From there, you have the mechanical hold and forge out as one piece.

    It seems to me that getting two widths of collar and three pieces to stick (four simultaneous welds) is difficult at best.

    How close am I on this guess of how this is done?

  3. I think most 'ridicule' that is found on this or any other forum is because many users have never learned proper etiquette on this or any other public forum. Common errors people make are:

    * Not searching first
    * Showing reckless ignorance while convinced they are right
    * Not using good titles for posts
    * Not spell checking, grammar checking

    These things do not change who you are, but alter the perception of you greatly. The perception dictates what kind of reception you will get.

    I went to my first hammer-in, still in my "civilian clothes". I did not look the part and no one seemed interested in talking with me. I got changed into dirty overalls, safety gear and found people much friendlier and more engaging.

    Dress the part on-line just as you would in real life.

    -Doug

  4. Greebe,

    Until last week, he had TWO 335# :) Guess where the other one is going...

    They are not going out of business. They are moving production from Czeck [spelling corrected] to USA. Look at the price of the 335# to what the price for the 175# will be once production is moved to USA, or the cost of a 175# from other manufacturers.

    you might do what I did, get the #335.

    -Doug

  5. I just bought a very similar forge and blower. Mine was a No 400 blower that is in great shape (2 full rotations after I stop turning), but the forge is the same geometry as yours except it has a slack tub on the end. The slack tub goes down in a triangular fashion, and is rusted out a bit.

    I stole it for $25, and a 5 hour drive one way to pick it up. I would have paid $500 or more for the set-up. Glad that woman did not know what eBay was!

    -Doug

  6. Gentlemen,

    This should be settled with a duel.

    At dawn, each of you will be given

    • a piece of steel,
    • anvil,
    • hammer
    • forge of choice.

    The first to make a sword may then approach the other...

    Doug

    PS: I call dibs on the survivor's forge.
  7. The question of the diamondback forge living through the fire, it is completely understandable. The smithy burned completely to the ground.

    The hoses for the propane melted, if I could have found the gauges, I would not trust them. The body of the forge is salvageable. Thr firebrick might be OK. The insulation blanket should be replaced, not from the fire of course, but from the water.

    -Doug

  8. I had a diamondback forge, need to rebuild it since it did not make it through the smithy fire I had a few months ago. It is the only gasser I have ever used, but saw no reason to get a different one. The hammer in I took it to yielded many questions from folks that wanted one too, I figure that is good...

    -Doug

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