urnesBeast

That is virtually the same set-up I have. Similar model forge (I dated it with an ad to 1901 ish), matching blower, and my first english pattern anvil, small leg vice.

I paid:

$200 ish for anvil
$ 25 for forge and blower (great deal there!)
$100 for the vice

I got all mine from three sources. You can easily sell that extra forging table, might need some threaded black pipe to make new legs though (watch out! they are three different lengths). Because I had a lot of time while my smithy was being reconstructed, I sanded the rust off of everything, and painted it real nice. Made it look good and the paint actually stays on the forge (all except fire pot that is).

Dad lost the romote for the last time.

I have read, and am sufficiently worried about galvi (galvanized) pipe. I am also thinking I might be completely over thinking this:

I have a modified Uri side draft. I am making a double walled pipe for the horizontal bit. I have the 12 diameter pipe that I need for the inner pipe, it is galvanized.

It would be about a foot from the forge fire. These side drafts draw really well, so I totally expect the flame to be drawn a foot over and to lick the inner galvi pipe.

Is this going to be a problem, health wise?

-Doug

Glenn,

It was a simple statement, but it makes me think:

"Think of any way there will be a transfer of heat and try to eliminate it."

I have tried from two computers, I am not able to add the photos as an attachment, they are under the size limit. Anyways, here is the plan:

-------

Cut off the horizontal side draft chimney to 1 inch proud from the inner wall.

Use drywall screws to pull the outer shell back to flat to the 13 inch framed hole. Not that there is a real hole through the side draft from this, but I have chimney cement to cover these holes.

Lay down a 1/2 inch kaowool blanket two inch wider than the wall thickness all the way around the inside of the 13 inch metal outer shell.

Put 2 half inch metal spacers on top of the kaowool at each edge of the inner shell. (so four on the floor, four on the ceiling) This will keep the inner shell centered.

Screw 4 L beams through the spacers, kaowool, and outer shell into the 2x4 framing. These reach to the edge of the fire pot on the bottom, and half way over the fire pot on the top.

Lay down the thin steel sheeting into the four L beams, completing the box. Bolt the thin sheet into the L beams. Possibly seal with chimney cement.

Use extra kaowool to frame the wall surrounding the outer shell. Should be about 7 wide around.

Cover the kaowool frame with a wider metal plate, to the width of the forge.

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This would be better with pics, but they are not attaching!

If I was super paranoid, I would be concerned about the screws from the inner shell transferring heat into the 2x4 frame...

Glenn, Reb,

After picking up supplies, I am not using the insulation. I will go with air gap.

I do not have a way to draw anything right now, but here is the plan:

The wall is composed of:

Rough saw siding-- 2x4 -- Drywall.

13" square hole through the wall is the same size as the outer metal tube. The 2x4's are touching the outer metal tube on all sides. Not terribly tightly because the metal shell bows in on the four edges. The 13 inch hole through the wall could be enlarged if needed with some amount of effort (it was framed in before the drywall was put in....) I have 16 inch on center studs.

I have now got thin steel plates, 1'x2' and angle iron from a bedframe. I will make an inner square tube (see photos for raw supplies).

Now, Glenn mentioned leaving the space open. I was going to seal it off for better draw, but I doubt it is needed. I will just have some metal bars inside the air gap to space the inner tube from the walls.

There is some warping in the original, so the air gap will vary, and might actually touch a little. Over all the effect will be there.

More thoughts?

Doug

I made a side draft just as Uri has. Since my last shop burned down, I am concerned on safety. The horizontal part goes right through the side wall, contacting the drywall, a tight 2x4 frame, and then rough sawn siding.

In my first test, the side draft gets warm to the point you can touch it, but not hold your hand on it for more than a few seconds.

I am thinking of cutting the side draft off flush to the wall and then putting a smaller side draft inside. This would be an inch smaller on all sides, the extra space would be filled with insulating putty. This would give an insulated double walled pipe through the thickness of the wall. Since the outer pipe is cut off at the inner wall, the only heat would be radiating the distance to the forge, no conducting.

I suspect this will keep the outer tube cool.

This is way overkill, but I like it better.

Ideas?

Doug

Ah, I was drawn to the "Join date" of the members, not the posting date to the left.

I keep seeing this post in the "New Posts" section, but most are dated from over a year ago. What is the situation?

A horse walks into the bar. The barkeeper says, "Why the long face?" :)

the carpet technique sounds really good. Low tech, on the back side between smithy and fence. Cheap, and I suspect, effective.

Thank you!

I am friendly with the firemen, I was going to stop by tonight. Even though things are local, what was your experience.

Doug

BP1048 Side Draft Chimney | Blueprints 1000

I am planning on using the above side draft. Has anyone built one of these that went through a building inspector.

If you have knowledge in this area, that would be great.

I used this in my first smithy, and it was great. I considered it safe, but I want to know what code inspectors think.

Doug

By state law, I am fine up until 9pm, but I want to be a good neighbor, and maybe buy some later evenings.

Right now, I have roughsawn, pink insulation between 2x4, drywall mudded and taped.

I am trying to find a decibel meter to better understand what the noise actually is coming out.

Quick fixes would be great though.

Doug

I want to be a good neighbor, so I am looking to soundproof my new construction smithy.

The drywall is already up, so anything would have to be over that. My goal is to keep the sounds coming from the smithy under 10db above the ambient noise at my nearest neighbors, weighted for the "A" scale. They are 10 ft away with a stockade fence between us.

I may already be under that. I have no way to measure this currently.

The neighbor I am most concerned about does not seem to be open to talking directly with me, so my winning personality and a life-time suppy of s-hooks is not going to work here.

-Doug

In chemistry class, the professor was talking of "Hydrochloric Acid" and saying how powerful it was. At then end, I went to him and asked "Is it more powerful than Muratic Acid?"

He replies: "Your father is a plumber."

I was floored! Apparently only plumbers refer to hydrochloric by that term. Score for the professor!

-Doug

Pretty sure I was buying coal for $0.18 a pound, bag it yourself.

I found a guy on Craig's list selling used 5 gallon buckets for $1 a piece with lids. That is cheaper that bagged coal on the first use! Easy to haul and store.

This is for the good smithing coal, I forget the name of it. Get it from William's just south of Boston. (I think that is the name of it)

To sum up the key points that folks have made:

- Purchase a set of Hofi hammers and use his ergonomic technique to reduce chances of further injury to elbows and shoulders.
- Make sure that your anvil height is correct. Too many smiths don't stand straight, instead they bend over their anvils and go ding ding ding. So stand up and correct your anvil height and how you stand, and instead go pound pound pound.

So, I am part of the way there. I have the hofi hammer, and I am soon to be mounting my anvil. Especially with a Hofi hammer, I am not sure what the proper height of the anvil face is.

I have searched the site here, but "Anvil height" gives a lot of wrong hits.

I have gathered that it should be 'knuckle height when standing straight and arms extended down." I however have three joints on every finger. Which is the proper height?

I note that some tripod stands allow your feet underneath the anvil, but stumps do not. Is that a feature or not really important?

-Doug

As someone who lost his entire wood floored shop to a fire April 16th, I HIGHLY recommend removal of the wooden floor.

-Doug

remember to point out to them that is is good luck to have a blacksmith at a wedding, because they can forge two pieces of metal into one. A story about the Scottish town would be good too.

(when I think of screw eyes I don't usually think of them as having eyes large enough that a good sized rod for supporting 300+# from the middle would fit through them---

Ah yes! Does anyone know how to make an s hook for this application?

-Doug

The cribbing idea is brilliant. I just used five Harry Potter books and lifted the anvil up six inches (or five stories! ha ha). The anvil is long enough to tilt back on the horn, then the heel easily. Strap a 2x4 on to the top for some real leverage add some cribbing and I will have this thing up in no time.

Thanks again. I have no idea why I find this so exciting...

Doug

Many of these ideas are good, if I had open beams. There is drywall covering everything, so I can not strap around the beams or drill all the way through and put in washers.

Thanks for the advice. When all is done, I will make a list of things I should have done for a new construction smithy. I think putting some overhead Eye bolts exposed above the anvil area would have been good.

I think to remedy this, I can put a beam over the drywall (actually under since it is the ceiling!) bolted to several joists. I can easily pre-install the washered eyebolts in this.

I am sure a good ceiling hook will have many uses. Though these ways of lifting the anvil with cribbing and such seem like a fun learning exercise so I might not install the ceiling hook for the come-along.

Thanks,
Doug

I've been looking for an excuse to post this youtube clip; 'Building Stonehenge - This Man can Move Anything' (cut and paste title into Youtube). Wally Wallington has done some really impressive experiments. YouTube - Building Stonehenge - This Man can Move Anything

This is brilliant. I am doing the lift this way just for the experience of it. Thanks! I think I will order his video some time!

Perfect,
Thanks
Doug

DANGER look at the loading factors from using two points separated! or for an example: drive your vehicle about 20' from a tree. Tie a rope from it's bumper to the tree. Grab the rope at the midpoint and pull it sideways and see how much effort it takes to move your parked vehicle!

I did not say it in my post, but I was going to run a rigid bar between them so the load is straight down on each of them. Thanks for the reminder though.

Che,

Honestly, even in this economic environment, I have had a difficult time finding cheap labor. With the new construction, I have a dumpster so I am cleaning out the basement. You would think someone would want to carry loads of light wood up from the basement for some quick cash. In the ads I put out, I do not even put a labor rate. So it is not like I am offering too little.

nothing.

-Doug