Chad J

didn't even notice it before.. Thanks Chad J

thanks irnsrgn for starting this thread and unicorn forge for the info, learned somthing other than blacksmithing ..... cool Chad J

that's beautiful! Is this your First? how about the tusba? are you goning to try to make one? did you etch to bring out the habuchi? or is that from the polishing? I'm slowly working my way up to that, need to make a few more knife blades first...:rolleyes:

i didn't know about those other sites, thanks for the info. It's always better to have more then one source anyway. if you know of any more don't be afraid to post them:) I would like to check them out. again thank you. Chad J

It's safe. Just poorly written.

snopes.com: Cash for Clunkers

like i said i really like that site. my sweetie turned me on to it during the presidential election when there was mass emails with false information in them. and ever since then when i get an email with questionable material I'll look at snopes first before i send it on to others. Just my 2 cents. Chad J

thanks all i appreciate the info. Double y sorry for taking over your thread. i seen some good info and wanted more!

johnptc i have that book. it is very informative even to the depth of explaining the safety factor of steel used for the frame. when i seen Randy's frame and that it was a i beam cut down the middle i thought what cool idea never would of thought of that.

Again Sorry for hijacking your thread Double Y!

Chad

hey Randy,
do you have info on your press such as type of i beam used, top and bottom rail used? i'm in the process of building my own press and kind of stuck on design of the frame and trying to get ideas. Chad

ps your videos were awesome, very well done

hey Charlotte,

here is a web site for Walter Sorrels a swordsmith, more specifically Japanese style blades. he also has videos for how he makes every part, from the blade to the saya.
HOME******* ABOUT WALTER
more books that i found of interest:

The art of Japanese Sword Polishing, Takaiwa, Yoshihara, Kapp
Lethal Elegance, Earle
The Japanese Sword, Sato
The Samurai Sword, Yumoto
and The Craft of the Japanese Sword, Leon and Hiroko Kapp, Yoshindo, Yoshara which was already stated above.
These were the few that was recomended for me and i have found them to be very informative.

Hope this helps, Chad

oh man, i really like the look of quilted maple.....well any figured wood for that matter! that is very nice!

that is very nice, what type of wood did you use?

thats pretty nice, like the leather work. i never really liked the small sharpening stone either until your along ways away from every where and its all you got.
Chad

Sorry LDW
i was typing that freakishly long post and didn't see that you posted before me.
Chad J

hey Jim, one thing to look at is the cable make sure its not galvanized. Sounds like if its pre lubed or greased it shouldn't be. (Inshalla) and forge welding is a big task to tackle all at once. i bought a #25 LG from a guy in New Mexico last year and he showed me the ins and outs of forge welding with 15 n 20 and 1084. but i still had 4 failures before my first success. Fifth and First successful attempt was with some 1" dia. herring bone pattern crane cable.
Don't get the impression that i'm trying to scare you away from forge welding, I'm saying DON'T GIVE UP! turns out i had to low of heat in my forge. after a complete make over with it now my forge will get to welding heat. depending on what type of forge you have solid fuel or gasser, i can only speak from a gasser stand point.

1. start with a 2' of cable, reason is you will weld only 4"-6" of it and the rest will be used as a handle. or if you have tongs you can start with a 4"-6" piece(and you are just starting out later with experience you figure out what you need.)

2. take some tie wire double rap the ends to keep from unraveling. and cut with what ever you have to cut with. ie i use a peanut grinder with a 3/32" metal cutting disk, cuts right through it and leaves a clean edge.

3. this part is personal preference some like to (this is what i did with a piece about 6" I wouldn't suggest it with a 2' piece) unravel the strands and clean them all independent from each other. prepare for sore finger tips. as i unraveled the strands i laid the pieces down in sequence cleaned each one then put them back together in reverse order. Now others don't clean at all they just flux and have success. either way you choose is up to you. (I would suggest this being your first time to clean the strands.)

4. I have a gas forge so I'll talk about that. fire up your forge let the forge come up to heat. the inside will look orange. place the cable or billet in let soak for awhile, paying close attention to the color when it starts to show a little red pull out and sprinkle flux on. (i use 20 team mule borax which you can get at any grocery store) it will foam up off the billet, rotate the billet to keep the flux on the billet. what's happening is there's chemical something and something in it, that's terrible sorry i can't remember what was in it for sure but there's moisture in the borax that is being burned off. put back in front of the forge where there is a lot of heat and rotate. you'll see that after a few seconds it "melts" on the surface place back in the forge. depending on the forge when it comes to a full red i flux again. put back in the forge. repeat until there is a visible coating of goo or honey on the surface. usually over head cable is a high carbon steel, if you can find out for sure would help, but if not just treat the billet like it was high carbon. which you will forge weld with a higher heat. I have some old green glasses from my dad that i use to look in the forge with. the billet will blend in with the walls of the forge now its ready to hammer.

5. after the billet is up to heat, put in a vise of some type and with either a pipe wrench or vise grip pliers twist with the twist of the billet. Being careful not to over twist. you will feel the billet harden up as you twist and become ridged. take the billet back to the forge i will wire brush off the old flux and re flux. place back in the forge and bring back up to heat.

6. i use a #25 LG to hammer my billets. you can use an anvil and hammer just the same. the key points are you don't need to whack the crap out of it. but more like hitting and squishing the billet together. a few taps is all you will get per heat. resist the temptation of "just one more hit". hit as close to your tongs as possible rotate with the twist away from you. I'll do a rotate completely then advance with the twist, trying to over lap hits with previous hits. reheat reflux rehit. very labor intensive. and it takes awhile to do. i found that having more than one project going helps. multi tasking if you will.

7. after you have welded the billet now you can forge down to what ever shape you want. Remember that you need to forge at welding heat. if you don't you can run the risk of breaking your welds.

8. Should talk about shop safety, eye glasses clear and dark, fire extinguisher, heavy and light gloves, hearing protection. to just name a few.

Which ever you try Gasser or Solid fuel, the basic theory is the same. bring to red flux, bring to welding heat hit, bring to welding heat forge.

There will be a few who will chime in and help also. don't get disgruntled over anything and there is no dumb question. don't be afraid to ask.

And remember this is "A" way, not "THEE" way.
Hope this helps. Chad Jorgenson

hey 1911a1forlife
thanks for the tutorial, I came across a broken firing pin that I'll use for the butt cap (firing pin is from a 155mm howitzer) will see how it looks.

nice job, keep it up! How does your bolster work? i was thinking on trying a leather stacked handle knife and all i found was stuff for a pommel or a butt cap that had the tang beat down like a rivet. just trying to get ideas. Thanks Chad

very nice pattern, well done!

dang nice, solder job looks real good from the photo. lot better then my first. man i wouldn't make a very good plumber!:p

very nice. What did you use as a Finnish?

have you got a pressure gauge on your fuel line? I was having problems with mine huffing like your saying and i found that at a higher pressure (i have a 0-30 psi pressure gauge) anything over 5 psi then they worked fine. hope this helps. Chad

that is way cool, I like the face on there. If you get a chance you'll have to explain how you made that face. that's a real keeper!

that does look very nice.

that is a beauty, to echo frosty, if you could a video would be nice.

that's quite interesting. alot of practice anyway. my rockin out consisted of beer or (what alcoholic beverage we could get our hands on ) and a stereo and air guitar. man i'm glad there was no cameras around at that time!;)

do you have any info for him? boy do i have questions for him!!!!

that is nice, especially the inlay. got nothing to be ashamed of there.