Brian C.

Where in Ohio are you located? Chillicothe Steel has all you want. Many welding shops have some that they may sell you also.

Just to add to this topic. I am recovering from last fridays surgery to repair a tendon in my elbow that was torn over 1/2 in two. I was forging when I did it, nothing I had not done hundreds of times before.

I am going to study the Hofi methods carefully while recuperating.

Try a shoe repair shop. Many of them do lots of leather repairs & such.

Some years back I investigated a garage fire. Guess what I found at the point of ignition-you got it-a bucket of linseed oil soaked rags. 'Nuff said.

Here are a few of me. Taken just a FEW (LOL) years apart.

The first is me working in Dads orthopaedic shop about 1976 or '77.

The second was taken a year or so ago working in my driveway shop.

I stay cleaner smithing it seems.

The third is myself, Loren Roper (simplysmithing.com), and Vern Ridgely at Quad State last fall. See, we dont all look alike.

Dad will be 79 this month, and I will be 54 this July. He has informed me that he hopes that he is the last man I ever see. I do to.

I am far from being what anyone would ever consider a "Master" smith. But I do know that I am the best blacksmith on my street. (big old grin & a wink)

Set the tank in an old fashioned galvanized wash tub, fill half way with warm water. I made a steel strap that connects to the handles of the tub, through the handles of the tank, to keep it from floating.

I also have used the JB weld. I forged a tenon on the ends of a set of fireplace tools, then drilled the antlers, a big glob of JB around the tenon & then insert. Still holding so far after 2 years.

FTB2- If I may be a bit nosy. Who is your instructor? I know several smiths in that general vicinity.

Mostly propane & occcasionaly coal.

Here is a pic of the little guy.

"I will not work on, with, or for xxxxxxx"

The best way that I have found to deaden the anvils ring is to run a THICK bead of silicone all around the edge under the base of the anvil. Works a treat for me.

Ditto on the Diamond brand hammers. Good tools.

I use a utility cart with the forge set on firebrick. I made a rack to go across the front for hammers and tongs hang from the handle of the cart.

Naval brass is what I have used with some success. Rich Waugh uses a lot of Silicon Bronze with great results.

I have seen several episodes and they seemed to be long on generalities & short on specifics such as "how to do's"

I will be there fri. noon until sun.. Wouldnt miss it. :)

I use a gasser almost all the time, coal forge on rare occasions for large pieces. I put a tall stack on the coal forge when I use it and run a big fan to disperse the smoke. I have my PW anvil set in a lot of silicone caulking to deaden the ring. No complaints in the last 8-9 years. All the neighbors just think I am the neighborhood "curiosity".

I don't make knives, but I wanted to share this one with you. It was made for me by Loren Roper of Simply Smithing Blacksmith.

The blade is made from chainsaw chain, with some nickel added. The finger guard is mokume (spelling?).

I think he did an outstanding job.

The confusion of the Vulcan is generally in the logo; Arm and Hammer Anvils, a traditionally made anvil, made in Columbus OH, uses the arm and hammer logo punched *into* the side of the anvil. (were you thinking of the Columbian cast steel anvils made in Cleveland OH?)

Vulcan anvils have a steel face and a cast iron body and their arm and hammer logo is cast protruding from the side of the anvil. I don't recall where they were made but it wasn't Columbus OH. I thought it was the Illinois Iron and Bolt Company that made the Vulcans

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Was it Jeff at quadstate that had a miniature that mounted on his hat---and worked?

Another material to use for tires is a good heavy felt, if you have access to some. My old Delta saw has this glued on over the old worn out originals. It was probably 1/4 or 3/8" thick originally. It has been on there as long as I can remember (it was in Dad's shop for years before I got it).