bkforge

Moisture doesn't matter....it will boil out once it is on the hot steel. Make sure the flux is liquid (like hot syrup) and not crusty when you go to do the weld. Don't hit it real hard for the initial weld. First blows down the center of the billet to squeeze the flux/slag out the sides. Bill

3600 rpm is key. Compressor motor is fine (has capacitors for extra starting torque) but not necessary. Hydraulic circuit doesn't have much load at startup since the valve spool is open to return line--could use a standard motor. You going w/ a 11 gpm pump? Bill

If you use a solid anvil--not a hollow tube--of sufficient size, the floor should be fine. Anvil to hammer ratio of at least 6 to 1.

Yeah, I use DeWalt's from Lowe's too. The Norton's didn't seem to be as good for the same money. Moderate pressure is the key, keep a constant shower of sparks and keep the motor speed up. Bill

Why do you want an H frame instead of a C frame, considering you already have the frame built? Just finish it up and use it. If you built it according to Batson's plans it is plenty overbuilt. I've been using my C frame for 16 years. Bill

Since you got the hydraulic power pack and cylinder (which is alone worth the $250) build up a system and try it out. If it is not "fast enough" get a two stage pump and a fast motor. Just design the press frame heavy enough to withstand where you want to end up. I've been using a 25 ton/two stage(16 gpm/4gpm)/3600 rpm/5 hp electric motor for 15+years and it is great. But it's not hammer. But it does a lot you can't do w/ a 50 lb little giant. For making flat dies, you just need to decrease the contact area, ie. tilt the workpiece to contact the corners only or use a smaller surface area like a fuller first, then the flat dies to "flatten", kinda like a hand hammer on large stock. The press is great down to 1/4" thickness then the hammer/powerhammer/treadle hammer takes over, especially for drawing out. It can be done with press but you need some large diameter drawing dies for best results. If the dies are too small it takes aggressive bites and makes cleanup difficult--this is where slow speed is good.....try the pump you have and learn Bill

Hot punch slightly undersized and drift from both sides as the metal cools to get a more accurate dimension. If you upset the drift slightly you can make up for the size change due to heat. Mark Aspery demo'd that, was pretty impressive--think he did three hammer blows for a half inch drift.

Go direct to the source. Make sure you have time to talk, Clifton sure likes to. Your wife/girlfriend probably will get annoyed by the time you watch all of the tapes....do it in moderation

Bronze is a waste of money, UHMW will last just as long and probably work better since it has a lower coefficient of friction. Bronze is sooo 20th century. I have 2 hammers made using it and they work just fine. One is 75 lbs and the other is 25 lbs. I agree that your anvil is "a little light". More is better here....

Why don't you make ONE trip to the spring shop (call them first and see if they can do it while you wait/fax them, email them a drawing and have it done when you get there). Take your old broken spring w/ you. Tell them what you do and ask if you could watch them make you a new one. Make sure to tell them the machine is 100 years old and probably won't need another one in your lifetime, how important it is to you etc. I get springs made here in chicago at a spring shop. They use prearched, treated stock and do all the work cold, bend eyes, punch holes etc. The other option is just buy the stock from them when you go and do it yourself (what I do now)