ARKtest

Members
  • Content Count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ARKtest

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Over The Road
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, 3D Printing, Electronics, and Pyrotechnics

Recent Profile Visitors

992 profile views
  1. How exactly do you want to separate it. I was able to get the gearbox open and lube up the gears, but taking the gearbox off of the fan housing just won't happen for me. Pictures of your setup would help.
  2. Like I said, the rotor is basically sitting on top of the pot. The welds could have been bolts set outside the rotor against its rim and it would accomplish the same purpose.
  3. Thanks for the warning but the welds are only to keep the rotor from sliding around too much. The rotor sits on top of the original pot and the blower is bolted to both the pot and rotor. Gravity keeps the rotor in the hole and the blower is hanging from the bottom of both. If the legs where attached to the blower this might be a problem, but I made sure everything worked out.
  4. Hope y'all enjoyed. If anyone needs pictures of stampings or numbers for research purposes just let me know. I fired it up today and boy does it blow aor.
  5. I recently picked up an old rivet forge made by Canedy - Otto Mfg Co, usually known for their drill presses and larger blowers. I don't have a lot of info so I hope some of y'all might be able to help. Well I went to work restoring/refurbishing it as well as making upgrade like repairs in the prossess. Here are some pictures of the forge as I got it. The blower does turn but its not smooth and I worry that with every turn it could break a tooth. It's definitely not clean or lubed. Inside the forge is a brake rotor and tongs. The rotor will come into play later. As you can see, its been neglected for quite a while. We'll start with disassembly and wire brushing. It all started off easy, but then there was one stubborn bolt. I cleaned out and cut the slotted head, but it broke one of my flat head bits. So I cut into the back of the bolt, still to no avail. So finally I cut it off with the angle grinder. With a bit of gentle persuasion I got the extension off. As you can see its in pretty bad shape. I continue disassembly with the legs. The hardware was dirty and rusted. A little brush down with a wire brush and some WD-40 got the bolts out. The blower was attached with two bolts. Those came out without incident. Now I get to really clean it. I started brushing it down and found the gearbox had a separation where the lid goes on, so I opened or up. Here is a before and after showing how it is now compared to how gunked up it was. I cut a layer off the rotor so it'd sit more flush to the bottom if the pot. I also cut the pot to fit the rotor. It is so cracked and decayed that I don't feel bad about cutting it to make room. I prepared the metal for welding. As I welded in sections to stress the metal less I disassembled the legs further, wire brushed them, and painted them with rust converter. Put it all back together (plus some spacers under the pot and some new hardware where needed), grease the gears, and you're done! I'll make another post just for all the finished photos.
  6. ARKtest

    RR Spike Tongs

    I know this post has been sitting around for a while but I wanted to add. My mentor showed me a set of RR spike. tongs he had aquired from an unknown source, he thinks an old railroad company due to the company like stampings. Its similar to the aforementioned nippers in the sense that it has one side that is split to wrap around the spikes head, but the difference is that instead of pushing against the flat side it wraps around the flat side in front of the head and pushes up against the head with a round stock like end. It forces the spike up into the U like bit and holds it better than any other railroad spike tongs I've seen. I regretfully didn't grab a picture but if there is interest I'll draw something up before I set out to make a pair.
  7. Welcome to the forums. I'm sure there is a guild or association. I see you're on the border with SC, you might be lucky enough to fit into a GA group and a SC group. More learning potential I'm surprised we beat Frosty to it Dodge.
  8. Oh I'm definitely not trying to fill in the crack, just welding the rotor in enough so I don't have to worry about anything shifting around. I intend to keep the bolts working so I can continue to break it down like it currently is. Its sitting in a corner after I stopped yesterday, it looks sad not put together.
  9. Nice suggestion with the exhaust pipe frosty, I never thought of that.
  10. If you "clay" the edges to create a seal you might be able to set the brake drum onto of some cinder brick, using the hollow portions as a big, fire proof, square tube. Plus built in support. Drill a hole in the side and you could attach your fan with practically anything because it'd be away from the heat. You'd just have to make sure the seams are sealed. Fire cement for the drum to brick joint should do. Shoot you could use actual clay for brick to brick joints, or mortis.
  11. Ah! You just missed me. I moved out if NOVA a couple months ago. Great area to pick up the hammer. I'd suggest hitting up all the colonial towns and stopping by the blacksmith shops. See if you can tell which ones are actors and which ones have real smiths. You should also be able to find a good amount of tools at flea markets and antique shops because of the numerous colonial towns around the area.
  12. Thanks for the tip. Yeah its pretty bad, but I'm setting a rotor into it so it'll be back up and running. A forge with a working hand crank blower for $75. Crack or no crack, can't beat that.
  13. Welcome James. To add to Frosty's always knowledgeable input, some people start off with large sledge heads set into a stump as their anvil. My first forge was a brake drum burning green wood andand/or hardwood charcoal, blown by a inflatable mattress pump (manual). I eventually moved up to coal (soft and then hard) because I lived in Virginia and my mentor had two tons shipped to his house at one point. I'd suggest looking around forfor a junked brake rotor and the deck from a push mower that was tossed. You could drill and bolt them together if you don't have a welder. You could set it up on cinder bricks for the time being. You would then just need to find a tuyere and bellows. A black steel pipe (not galvanized) that can fit through the hole but will catch if you put an endcap on it works great. I just drilled holes in the cap. I occasionally (once a month) had to drill out the holes due to clinkers. Some flexible ducting hose can help attach what ever blower you get to a T joint tuyere. There are plenty of YouTube videos for brake drum forges. There are also the side blast forges. Most cheap ones made from old grills. The options are endless, and inevitably cheaper. I am a firm believer that being a blacksmith has only perpetuated my frugal behavior.
  14. I know its hard to tell in that picture but its cast. Lots of pitting and one hell of a cack though. It says on the forge to clay before use, but I fear the last owner did not. Part of my restoration will also be modification/upgrading so that I will stop it from cracking anymore and won't need to clay it. I might be missing something, but did I not put my local in the header?
  15. Howdy, Introducing myself again beings that I haven't been on in a couple years. I live in Crocker MO now though so hopefully I can meet up with some of the local guys soon. I already started contacting BAM and we'll see how that goes. I just got an old Canedy - Otto forge for a good price, plus labor. I'm currently restoring it to working order so expect pictures in the next couple of days. I would be interested if anyone knew any info about this forge in particular. Its not a BB size and it doesn't have one of the big Royal or Western Chief blowers. I've only found two other ones online and no info. Any help would be appreciated. Looks like a decent little rivet forge, and just for clarification the extension was added after market. Thanks guys.