BT

So Steve, I'm assuming that you didn't use the forklift this time . . . ;)

Im in mountain view,mo howell county. Daniei 85- all the above. I checked in with BAM. No reply back yet but i may call for help

Just curious, what did you mean by "checked in with BAM'? If you sent in a membership, you most likely won't receive anything back until the next issue of the newsletter. The current newsletter and several years of back copies are available in electronic format on the BAM website www.bamsite.org. The next BAM meeting is July 28 in Lesterville, MO. You are welcome to attend even if not a member. I will have the directions and a map to the meeting on the website shortly. Our last meeting was just yesterday at Hams Prairie, Mo.

Looking forward to seeing it hooked up to that little International engine.

Another one of those minus a nickel an hour jobs. However, if one never takes on this kind of work, one stagnates.

So true.

Beautiful job Frank.

Yeah, that sounds good Phil, looking forward to it.

Roger, I hear what you are saying, wouldn't be BAM without the rain. -_- We're bringing the RV, so the rain shouldn't bother us too bad.

We will be there Wednesday evening too in order to start setting up first thing on Thursday morning.

Roger, are you camping or staying in a motel?

- Bernie

Good to see you made it all the way home with that load Phil. Sure made your truck squat.

Looks like Margie won't be seeing much of you for a while, unless she comes to visit you in the shop. :)

Has anyone ever tried this method? http://www.metalsmith.org/pub/mtlsmith/V16.4/weld-die.htm

Thanks Randy. I'll try that.

Randy, what did you do for the heat treatment? I had to do one after seeing your post, although I used some wrought iron for the billet and used a horseshoe rasp for the caps on the face and the peen. Just wondering how hard you could leave the face since it is backed up by the soft iron. I haven't heat treated mine yet.

- Bernie

Wow Phil, that is looking nice. Looking forward to the sow block pictures.

One of these days I'm gonna make it by there to see all those toys you have sitting around there in the background.

Ok lets try this . .

It is a device for welding the landside to the plowshare.

Patent number: 633921
Filing date: Dec 15, 1898
Issue date: Sep 26, 1899

I have a picture of the patent drawing, but don't know how to post pictures on here since all the "improvements" to the site.

Really good to hear you are on the mend Stan. We are all pulling for you.

Keep up the progress.

Oh come on Grant, I can't believe you wouldn't name it the Naked Anvil. :-)

IR/UV Green Shade 3.0 Safety Glasses

There are always a few "new old stock" Ohmite ceramic rheostats on Ebay that usually go fairly cheap. That is what I run on my Buffalo 2E blower. I bought a 150 watt model L.

You can also use a common light dimmer switch or fan speed control, however you will have to replace them every year or so. At least that has been my experience.

Edit: I just reread your post and noticed the 230 volt comment. If your motor is 230 volt, I have no experience with 230 volt speed controllers. My comments apply to 110 volt universal type motors only.

Ussually try to get the ladies to pick it or my tin anvils up to impress the crowd.

You mean like this Roger?

Here is another thread with some good ideas for replacement flat belts.
Source of replacement flat belt???? - Practical Machinist

SCF
If you really want to be frugal, find a farmer that has a big round baler that uses the rubber belting instead of the chain rollers(Vermeer and others). They usually will have used belts that they have torn a lace or replaced for some reason. They will also probably have a lacing machine or know someone who does that can lace your belts for you. You can cut these belts down if you have too. I have some of these running in my shop at the moment on one of my hammers and on a saw and they work very well. I do a small freebie job for a couple of local farmers every once in a while, so I always have a ready supply of free belting and free lacing.

Jr.

Kneemail up from here bud. Hang in there, sounds like you are getting hit from all sides.

Bernie

Nice job Jr.

There are several sites you can get a free download of all four volumes of the Richardson book in PDF format.
Top & New Downloads, "How To" Books from the Past - wkFineTools.com is one.

I repaired a couple old vises with worn out screws and boxes many years ago. On one of them, I used a new piece of threaded rod welded to the old screw head and handle and then welded a nut to the back of the screw box. This vise had the open back screw box.

On the other vise, I used a piece of threaded rod from an old house jack for the screw. Then I fabricated a new screw box from several pieces of heavy pipe and made new threads for the box by wrapping keystock around the threaded rod and then inserting these threads into the new box. I brazed them in a coal forge with copper wire and borax.

Both of these have been in use now for about 30 years and still working well.

Google for electrolysis rust removal. Here is one link
Rust removal by electrolysis

I have some Little Giant parts going in a tank in my shop at the moment. This process will remove caked on crud, rust and even old paint.