BT

Yeah, I noticed that Jr. I need to steal that idea for my big pedestal grinder with the 14 x 2 inch wheels. I have to give them a spin by hand now to help the motor start. :-)

There are some more pics of this place over on owwm
Old Woodworking Machines :: View topic - Owwms, line shafting in old blacksmith shop

One of the items that followed me home yesterday. 26 1/2 inches long by 17 1/2 inches wide and 5 1/4 inches thick. For reference those are 6 x 6 timbers it is sitting on.

Candid

Sid at Little Giant sells babbitt, as does Centaur Forge.

Practical Blacksmithing is now available as a free download
1888 - Practical Blacksmithing by M. T. Richardson

Evan

Check with the local car and truck repair shops and tire places that do repair work. They usually throw away any broken spring sets that they replace.

On the USA anvil, on the front, on the right there is W and two numbers, not clear exactly what they are. Think the first is an 8. On the left there is, A29583(not sure about the 3). Am I looking at the left/right correctly? I am looking down at it. If I look straight on, then it is right for the serial number.

Left and right would be determined when you are facing the point of the horn straight on. The factors that point to a Trenton here are the markings "<" that you refer too. The Trenton logo is actually a diamond "<>" with the word TRENTON inside the diamond. The letters are shaped to fit inside the diamond, so the T is fairly small with the r e n getting progressively larger with the N in the center of the diamond and then the t o n again getting progressively smaller. Often only part of this logo is still visible. Trenton also made anvils for other companies, so sometimes you will have another name or marking stamped on the anvil also. One of my Trenton's has Sears "ACME" brand stamped over the Trenton logo.

The Serial number prefixed with the "A" is another indication as is the hourglass depression. Hay Budden anvils also had an hourglass depression in the bottom though, so that is not always a determining factor. Hay Buddens though had the serial number on the left as you look at the point of the horn, and usually had the weight stamped on the side of the anvil below the trademark.

If you wire brush the areas with the stamps it will usually bring them out a little clearer. Many times though the stamped areas are worn or hammered up and illegible.

Since this is a USA anvil the weight would most likely not be in the British stoneweight system, but would be in pounds.

Postman says the Trentons always had the serial number on the right. The weight on the left "may" be prefixed with a letter or letters. The serial number on the right may be prefixed with an "A".

Also check the bottom of the anvil. Early Trentons have an hourglass shaped depression. The later ones have an oval depression.

Check the front foot of that one. If it is a Trenton, it should have the weight stamped on the left and a serial number on the right. The weight would be in pounds.

That one looks like it could be a Trenton. The numbers might be a date.

The one with the "X" is probably a Wilkinson anvil. Probably originally marked J. Wilkinson & Sons, Queens, Dudley.

Sam, Mike wouldn't dupe you. Here is the answer. Questions and Answers, Holland Rusks

While sitting on the Dock of the bay

with apologies to Otis Redding:

"Wastin' time . . . ."(Acting like a dork)

Rock on. . .

I would think that only the tips of the spears would need to be hardened and tempered.

The HOST with the MOST
Gets LOST in this LIST

So Dodge, your studying to be a nerd?

oops looks like we had a fork in the road so I will try to Save this by playing off of both words.

That would be Dick on the dock with the sock.

Another thing to watch is make sure the heels of the scarfs are at welding heat. (see attached drawing) If the piece is not far enough in the fire the tips will be at heat, but the heel will not be. The hot tip will then not stick to the colder heel of the other piece.

An easy way to save your piece, would be to forge braze it. Wrap a couple wraps of thin copper wire around the joint, flux with borax, and heat until the copper melts. Then pull it out of the fire, and as soon as the copper solidifies, dunk it in the slack tub for a second or two to pop the flux off and wire brush and let cool.

I needed to replace the brushes in my old Buffalo blower about a year ago. Tried the local motor repair places. None had brushes big enough to fit. Checked the online supply houses. No luck there either. I found a company on the internet that would custom make the brushes, but they had a 3 set minimum. Finally someone told me to try the local vacuum sweeper repair place. They rummaged around through their stock and came up with a pair that was just about 1/64 to wide, but the thickness and length was exactly what I needed. A few minutes sanding down the width and I was back in business. The guy kept apologizing that he had to charge me 10 dollars for the set.

consider it "Sent"

Hay-Buddens usually have the serial no on the left front foot.

Another solution for the tee fitting, would be one of the old cast iron pipe tee fitting. If you know any plumbers they usually throw away all the old cast iron stuff when remodeling systems and replace it with PVC stuff.

simmonds
google "babbitt pouring instructions" and you will get a bunch of hits on tips and examples of babbitt bearing restoration.

Crescent 32" Band Saw Restoration is one example, although this example is a two piece box. I think the Little Giant site has some good info also.

The advantages of babbit in the case of your blower would be that the tapered shafts would not need to be altered. Just polish them up a bit and they would be ready to go. I have repoured several small blower bearings like yours and it is really not that much of a job.