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I Forge Iron

BT

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Posts posted by BT

  1. It shouldn't be hard to fabricate some bearings boxes for babbit bearings for this. Most of these type of blowers had one piece boxes on them. You could use a short piece of black iron pipe arc welded to a piece of barstock for the box. Drill holes in the barstock to correspond to the mounting holes on the case. Drill a hole in the pipe for the pour hole which will then become the oil port also. Position the shaft in the center of the pipe ends and dam up the ends. Then just pour the babbit through the oil hole that you drilled in the pipe. Smoke the shaft well before pouring with acetylene or with a candle.
    After the pour, remove the shaft and drill out the babbit in the oil port.

  2. Back home again from a whirlwind tour of Nebraska, Wyoming and Colorado.

    Guys, NEVER take your wife along to visit Jr.'s shop if you ever intend to expand your shop. The argument that all your tools will not fit in your existing shop will never fly again. Jr. has more STUFF shoehorned into one building than anyone else I have ever seen. Great place to see though, and Jr. is a most accomodating host. He had a fire going when I got there and metal ready to go. I got to play with the Depew and several of his other toys for several hours. I finally started feeling guilty about taking up his time. (Well not too guilty . . . , I was having too much fun :D)

    After leaving Jr.'s, we made a quick stop by Indian Cave State park for a look Cheryl McDowell's shop and a visit with her and her assistant.

    Then on to Nebraska City, to find a motel for the night. After dinner, we made a side trip on Jr.s recommendation to Sid Sudimeier's place to see all the hammers sitting outside his place. From the 500 lb LG to all the other brands of hammers sitting outside the shop, it is quite a tour in itself. I understand the power hammers displayed inside the shop is even more mind boggling, however being Saturday night, the shop was closed, so that will have to wait for another trip.

    Sunday morning it was on to the PBA hammerin at Waverly Nebraska, where I met Tinker Tut, one of the posters on this sight and a bunch of other Nebraska smiths. Very friendly bunch of folks, that I enjoyed visiting with.

    We headed west about noon. My wife wanted to tour the Stuhr museum in Grand Island on our way west. There at the museum, I ran into yet another Nebraska smith, Randy Dack, the resident smith at the museum. Another great visit with one of the local smiths. At this point, my wife was wondering it we were actually on vacation or an if this was an extended blacksmithing tour.

    Thanks Jr. and all the other Nebraska smiths that I met and visited with for your hospitality.

  3. Tinker Tut

    I mixed up the beeswax that I got from you at the PBA meet with some linseed oil and turpentine and used it to finish some projects this weekend. Worked great. I enjoyed visiting with you and the the other Nebraska smiths at your meeting.
    Thanks again.

  4. I made my first ever spike knife a couple evenings ago too. Never was in to knifemaking much and still don't intend to go there, but my son brought by a bucket full of spikes he had picked up and insisted that I make one of the HC ones into a knife for him.

    2681.attach


  5. On the foot under the horn are some numbers.

    100^ 10047 7

    is what it looks like to me. The ^ might possibly be an A, but looks almost just like a ^

    the 4 could also be a 9

    Anyone have any idea what year it might have been made? Or whether it is a german or american made Trenton?

    On the underside of the foot, there is an oval/jelly bean shaped impression.

    I haven't yet weighed it, but I am assuming it is 100lbs.. Unless the 100 in the bottom left means 112lbs?


    According to Anvils in America serial number 100477 would have been made in 1911. The 100 on the left front foot should be the weight marking in pounds. It would be one of the American made Trentons.
  6. True Jr. but you have to agree that this site has these often needed conversions among others:


    454 graham crackers = 1 pound cake
    10 rations = 1 decoration
    100 rations = 1 C-ration
    10 millipedes = 1 centipede
    2 wharves = 1 paradox :)

  7. Cory

    That is really looking good. You will need to try some of the new Sewell coal that BAM is getting now and really give it a workout. It smokes a lot more that the Pocahontas stuff we had been getting. I may eventually have to go with something like your setup instead of my overhead hood.



  8. As far as using something electrical in line to speed up or slow down the motor, it is my understanding that if the motor is a single speed, the varying speeds will burn the motor up.



    Keykeeper, most of the old universal type electric forge blowers were designed to be run on a rheostat. I have run my old Buffalo electric blower on a simple light dimmer switch for the last 25 years and the only maintenance needed to the motor was a new set of brushes last year.

    You will destroy a modern induction type motor though if you try to run it on a rheostat.
  9. Ron

    Looks like your scarf may be too long. Bend the piece in a U shape before you scarf the ends. Then scarf at an angle on the step of your anvil or any other fairly sharp edge. Do one side, and flip it over and do the other side - one heat. You can see the type of scarf I am talking about in the picture "B" on your posted link. Then roll the scarfs together at an angle as in picture "C". The link will be somehat pointed on the end at this point, but the scarfs should be fairly short. Then weld and upset the pointed end back to the oval shape. The pointed end gives you a bit more material to make the weld. You should be able to make a link in 3 heats. 1 to bend the U. 1 to scarf the ends and bring them together and 1 to complete the weld.

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