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Posts posted by BT
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The culinary term for it is "barding." Yes, added moisture during cooking is the purpose.mike."
Actually it is called "larding" See What is a Larding Needle?
Curly: I used some 3/16 stainless rod, hammered to a flat point on one end and flattened and slot punched on the other. The slot punched end for threading bacon through, just like a big needle and thread. The flat sharp point cuts a path through the meat for the bacon strip. -
Postman lists a Hill anvil in AIA. Markings are "Hill" over "Burmingham".
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Highlander, I would use the electrolytic rust removal process on that vise. It would be quick and a lot cleaner than trying to power wire brush all that rust off. Check this site for the recipe Electrolytic Rust Removal .
I keep a tank mixed up in my shop. My son has some old Jeep trailer parts in mine now. This solution will also remove old paint and caked on grease and dirt. -
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Potassium Permanganate is toxic stuff, I dont think your even supposed to touch it barehanded.
It is only toxic in California. (just kidding char)
Jerry, I have used it too for curly maple stocks. When I used it, I first used a dilute nitric acid solution and then after the stock was heated slightly with a torch and dried, followed with the potassium permanganate. I have since gone to an commercial stock stain that is applied in one coat and gives much the same effect. -
IMNSHO the area of the hole in the hood should be equal or less than the area of the chimney. For example if the chimney is 10 inches by 10 inches (= 100 square inch area), the hole in the side draft hood should be no larger.
I have a 10 inch round flue on mine which I figure is somwhere around 78.5 square inches. I made the opening in my hood 8 inches by 9 inches which would be 72 square inches.
Here is a pic of mine in action. -
Preston: I'm just gonna say it was off the "broken" side and leave it at that!
Tetnum: Post a picture of your gig if you can. I collect old gigs and am always interested in seeing something different. There is a picture of some of the full size river gigs that I make in my member gallery. I think they are buried in a sub gallery there. -
Jr.
These were usually used on half inch thick by 36 inch long arrow shafts. The bows used were usually six feet long and handmade from red cedar or other native woods. Ray Joe Hastings of Doniphan recently wrote a book on their use in the Ozarks. He has quite a personal collection of these spikes. The heads are anywhere from four to nine inches long. -
This is a traditional style Missouri Ozark bow spike or bow gig. I forged this one from a piece of buggy seat spring. For more information on this Ozark tradition, visit this link: http://thelibrary.springfield.missouri.org/lochist/periodicals/ozarkswatch/ow50319.htm .
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Does anyone know when the registration form on the SOFA site will be activated?
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Your pictures don't show the bottom, but I see a handling hole under the horn and under the heel which would indicate a forged anvil. The ledges on the feet and the handling holes would make me guess Peter Wright also.
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Looks like you need to tighten the wedge that holds the vise mount and the leaf spring, so there is some pressure exerted against the front jaw by the leaf spring.
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I have a 1941 International . . .
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That sure looks like the beast in which case that would be the coal trough.
Yeah if you read the print it is designed to store wet coal.What is the year for the catalog?
CWB - that is from the 1909 Champion catalog. -
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Nice anvil. Trentons usually have the weight stamped on the left front foot and the serial number on the right front (as you are looking towards the horn).
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Stretch on Rubber Tires is one source. Check over at owwm.com, they have a lot of info on replacing band saw tires and sources.
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There are several knifemakers around your area that come to mind. As mentioned above, Tom McGinnis Ozark Knife Makers at Nixa, Don Hanson Don Hanson Custom Knives at Success, Bill Miller at Warsaw (W.M.Knives).
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I am still in the same shop and have been since 1951.
Jr. you have added a few "toys" to the shop since that picture was taken. :p -
I just need to wire mine up but the problem is with the blower I have the wires were cut off less than an inch from where they go into the motor! The big DUMMY!
The other problem with some of these old motors is the wire insulation is usually cracked and flaking off where the wire passes through the case. I usually go inside the case and clip the wires there and solder on a new piece of wire to extend outside the case and use some shrink tubing to insulate it. Sometimes there is enough room to use wirenuts inside the case if you don't want to solder it. -
Keykeeper
Nice Blower. That should be a universal motor (brush type), designed to run on a rheostat. A light dimmer switch or a fan rheostat will work, but you may have to replace it every few years. I use one of those old ceramic rheostats on my Buffalo, which has a similar motor. These rheostats show up on Ebay all the time. -
Deer Season
in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Posted · Edited by BT
In the link I posted above and after a little further checking in several dictionaries I did find references to "barding" with one of the definitions being the wrapping of meat with bacon or fat as opposed to inserting the fat into the meat(larding). Hmmm . . . new one on me. Most dictionaries only list the poet definition or the armor definition for bard.