ciladog

What was the metal you used? I think a piece of auto lug wrench would do .

I hate to say it but sometimes life isn't fair. I would suspect that the committee has the final say as to who attends and who does not. As for suing on the grounds of discrimination, I don't think blacksmiths are a protected class under Federal law yet (LOL).

Isn't the initial result of what you are doing something some of us refer to as "fishmouth"? Seems to work great whatever it is - I'll try it soon.

Nice powerhammer fixture. Could you show the whole fixture and maybe describe it a wee bit?

Nice vid, do you normalise before you finish grind, file and finish the end, seems in the sequence you normalised after this, can you clarify please.

This video shows how I make eye punches for animal heads. I use a forging method called piping where the surface metal is pulled over the core. Enjoy.

Thanks to all.

Great tutorial !! I like how you show making the inertia bend.

I made a video of how I make a ram's head for a poker. Enjoy.

thanks for the picture home many chainsaw blades did you use in the process i dont know how much to use.?

Mark thats a clean looking job, When my new shop is finished I would like to check out the big blu, Sam Salvati has a Anyang I'm going over to check that one too, did you upset or draw out the tenon side of the stock ? What size stock did you start out with ?

Put the business end in a vise so you won't draw out the temper. It will act as a heat sink.

Hey Bruce, Have you finished the plans yet?

An internet search shows ALL the examples I looked at with the taper to the inside.

This is a link to a video that I made about making and using pinch dogs old school. I know it looks easy to make them but try it. It is not as straight forward as it looks. Getting the geometry correct is a challange. Let me know how you make out.

My press is electro-mechanically controlled. I had a valve block and two solenoid valves form a project I was working on a long time ago. So when I decided to build a press, I used the solenoid valves to control it. The press is controlled with a two position foot pedal that actuates the valves. The up side of this arrangement is that I have a limit switch on the press that is adjustable and it will stop the downward travel at a preset distance. It comes in very handy

I never know how much gas I will be using over a period of time so I always ask my supplier to give me a tank with at least 5 years on the certification. Since the tanks are customer owned, I would have to pay for recertification if I bring in a tank after the expiration.


I learned that lesson after buying a new O2 tank from the supplier a long time ago and not having it refilled for over 5 years. Then when I brought it in I was told ‘no can do’ out of certification. So if I don’t use up the gas I still exchange the tank before the expiration.

A senior moment at age 55? Wait a few more years. Now the " stay below design" makes sense.

Check out this video about buying tanks. It has some good info you need to know.

Since the cylinders are 8", and rated for 3000 psi I should be able to get about 37 tons, and stay well below design. If I go to 2000 psi that would be 50 tons.

Smithy1 lighting a cigarette

you could use two 5X8 cylinders and build a press like Randy's. Northern Tool sells them for under $300 each.

http://www.northernt...uct_23518_23518

Thomas, I yield to your point. However, I would rather get hit with a blast of high pressure air than getting hit with a 2500 PSI blast of hydraulic fluid.

My point is that you don’t put 10 times the rated pressure into any vessel.

Let’s be logical here. PSI is PSI no matter if it is air or fluid. The fact that air can be compressed and fluid cannot is of no matter. Even a heavy duty tie rod pneumatic cylinder is only rated at 250 PSI maximum. That is a far cry from the 2500-3000 PSI of a working hydraulic cylinder like 10 times the pressure. NEVER USE A PNEUMATIC CYLINDER IN A HYDRAULIC APPLICATION.

Jake, I will give the tick-stick a go if you don’t mind.

I learned about the technique from a friend of mine over 36 years ago and I have used it scores of times over the years. He was a boat builder working in the ship yards on City Island, NY before he became a cabinet maker. Sadly, he is not with us anymore and a ton of knowledge went with him.

The attached thumbnail is the tick-stick I made 36 years ago. It has served me well. I know that it doesn’t have to be that detailed but it made it easier to line up all the points than just a simple stick.

The way it is used (at least the way I was shown) is that you place a piece of paper along the line you want to scribe. You then place the stick point against the points of what you think are important and trace the stick on the paper. If you are scribing a fair curve you don’t need that many points but if it is like a stone wall you will need many points.

You then lay the paper out on the board or whatever you want to scribe. You place the stick on the paper template so the stick is in the traced lines and mark the point of the stick. Then connect the dots and you have the pattern.

Check out this thread. There is also a bluepring on repairing a screwbox written by Dick Sargent but I can't seem to find it. Maybe Glenn can find it and post a link in this thread.

http://www.iforgeiro...d%20%20screwbox