arftist

On 7/20/2019 at 2:20 AM, anvil said:

this will answer your question. Start with a length of 1" round. 

No it will not because we are not discussing round.

Obviously round is first squared then tapered.

Striker's claim is that square must be rounded to be tapered.

NOTHING COULD BE FARTHER FROM THE TRUTH.

SQUARE IS DRAWN OUT SQUARE.

ROUND IS SQUARED THEN DRAWN OUT THEN RE-ROUNDED (and in fact should go 4 sided to 8 sided to 16 sided to round).

Die grinder with a stone bit.

Metals Handbook is another great all around book. 

Again, earlier years are more relatable for blacksmiths. 

I concur with your 3/16" estimate.

On 7/24/2019 at 12:54 PM, Latticino said:

Why not just bend it cold.  Just 1/4" mild steel rod...

Usually 1/4" is cold rolled, which is much harder than hot rolled.

 Steve, the tup doesn't just fall from the weight and speed of the ram; rather it is hurled downwards by the force of the springs. 

Not sure how this is going to work for you, normally you would use a solid helve since you are driving it with a spring anyways. As to your geometry problem, you already solved it. 

So...the point of this post is just for clarity.

A well tuned mechanical hammer can hit hard. 

FYI, Litle Giant was the low end of factory built mechanicals.

Straight Argon is useless for mug welding, just saying.

In descending order

Metabo

Fein

Bosch

Milwaukee

Portercable

Dewault grinders are so bad I will not allow them in my shop.

Quick answer is yes and it is a pretty good idea but so is wood.

I am telling you' Anvil, we are talking two different languages.

Read my post above more slowly.

You are missing something.

How are you deoxidizing your copper?

On 5/11/2019 at 12:21 AM, shrike said:

You might want to pick up "the skills of a blacksmith" by Mark Aspery. He's a bit more directive on the true fundamentals of moving metal than YouTube is.

Tldr; no one teaches begginers to reduce square stock square. The order is square, octagon, round, square. Then you move to square octagon, square if you're sneaky.

Wut?

Not at the school I attended. 

Square is reduced square and stays square. 

Round is squared, then drawn out then octagon then rounded back to round.

Why on earth would you waste so much time?

Advanced tooling for rivet heading

Start with 2 pieces of 3/8 x2x2 angle as long as your vice jaws. 

Drill a hole 1/64" smaller than your stock for 3/8 use 23/64".

Clamp the two angles together in a drill press vise and center the bit between them.  To really save time and aggravation drill only to the exact pre-determined depth to make your rivet the correct length.

After drilling clear (radius) edge of holes. 

To use, line up tools and stock in vise and clamp hard. Heat with torch. 

If you happen to have a foot operated vise, bolt fixtures to vise jaws.

In this case a forge may be used.

One set of said tools can make quite a few different rivets.

Go wild. You can't hurt it.

John R, those are not regular holders, sorry.

To the OP,

Stick with HSS cutters. Your old Atlas is way too slow and not rigid enough for carbide cutters. 

Most everything can be machined with high speed steel and they are easy to shape.

Ohio,  Enco is a Taiwan manufacturer.

MSC is Manhattan Supply Company, possibly the largest machine shop supplier in the world.

Enco makes and sell junk,  MSC sells every quality level from Junk to Swiss.

JHCC; take a welding class at a local college or tech high school.

Also, good clear pictures would help.

If it takes all your weight to start moving the tup then you have likely negated the flywheel and it is working against you when it should be helping.

It was exactly this problem on a DuPont hammer that caused me to introduce a flywheel to the Rusty design hammer.

Shawn, I bumped a thread; Building a 50# guided hammer. 

I will try to post some photos at a point when I have more free time.

Tyler, how do you like your hammer?

If you use a jackshaft between the motor and the crank you will gain much flexibility in terms of gear ratios than a tire clutch could ever provide.

Further, you can then utilize a flat belt slip clutch which is much more controllable than a tire clutch..

And using the jackshaft you can incorporate a flywheel effect which does several things; saves greatly on belt wear, eliminates the inertia of the tire upon startup and the momentum of the flywheel aids getting the tup (hammer) moving.

There is at least one build on here in addition to mine which uses this method.

Johnny Woolsey; stout looking hammer.

Jerry Allen really is a wizzard.

While it could be done either way, it is absolutely safer laying down. 

Prefer 125 CM, set in concrete.

Solid panels have much wind resistance (sail area).

Something Jen said triggered my memory. Try slapping the hard on a thick welding table. If they are soft, one good slap should do it.

There are foundation plans on the Little Giant web site.

What I was told;  mount on at least one layer of structural timber between hammer and foundation. An example would be 4x4s bolted together with long threaded rods. 

The block itself can then be mounted on punch press isolation mounts, AFAIK, the closest thing in industry to power hammer mounts.

Stall mats alone will not be sufficient, in my experience.

Best to machine it from solid block, casting would be good if you can afford it but would still require machining.