peacock

Please be more specific. Do you want the triangle raised and the circle sunk into the leather? Or do you want the circle and the triangle
both raised or both sunk? I use my blacksmithing touch mark on my leather work. This mark is your mark and you want it to look very professional
you may want to have it professionally made.

God pour out your mercy on Betty.

Been reading this thread from the start. Today I went to WalMart and bought 2 bags 10# each $6.49 a bag
of Royal Oak lump charcoal. Got out my demo forge took 1/2 a dirty paper towel 1 big hand full of pine shaving
and a hand full of wood stove pellets. I weighed out 4# of charcoal put it all together with 1 match and a low blast
on the blower in 5 minutes I had forging heat no smoke no smell. I forged 2, 6 in long hooks from 1/4 in. square,
2 leaves from 3/8 square. heated the 3/8 square to burning cut it off and welded it back together. Had about
1/2 a fire pot of fuel left. Thats $2.60 for 45 min. for fuel. That said I'd go to Wal-Mart. Must be 1 about everywhere.

Thanks for sharing the load. We will include Bella in our daily prayers.

Glenn you and your family have had a hard year. Pease know that we share your grief. God bless and keep you.
Hang on to the good memories.

Larry I know we have never met, but I feel like I know you. When we read about what is going on in each others lives everyday we have a connection. It is hard to type this with tears in my eyes. The death of young people is always so sad. Our thoughts and prayers are with you and this whole group. We have lost far too many of our loved ones lately. Remember God and many of his children are at your disposal lean on us in these hard times.

We haven't come close to all the uses yet. Buy THE VINEGAR BOOK,
you will never be with out vinegar again. I drink some every day. Even soak
my tired feet in it.


put flea market cresent wrenches, pliers, tongs, etc in it 2 days they free right up
wipe bare steel with it paint will stick like crazy. cleans your glasses the best car
windows too.

Put a layer of paper towels on your anvil face soak it with vinegar cover with plastic
over nite rust will wash rite off. Be sure to oil or it will rust again.

So sorry for your loss. Seems so many depart too early. Really your loss is all of us loss.
Your family is on our prayer list.


P.S. Monstermetal are you OK? Your post concerns me.

I would take Thomas up on his offer. In addition to being a top notch welder his is a great guy.
The only way you can go wrong is to not send it to him. that stye gear has allways been a problem
to crack. The spokes are sprialed that way to help them not crack when they were cast. Then the
teeth on the inside and out side compounds the problem. The thing is notched just looking for
a place to crack.

I talked to him about an hour ago we are working on a deal, but it is a bit of a stretch
for me. 850 miles may be the deal breaker, if someone is closer and can handle it let me know.

About $3 a pound and up here in Missouri. I quit on a real nice 200# at $600 it sold for $1125, Way too much for me.

John don't know what happened , don't need to know. I do know no one blows you own horn like the person who created it.
I read your blog everyday. The hours of sweat and time you put in makes a great hammer. I hope all goes well for you & the Depot.
You never know till you try.

I kinda wonder about the hardnes of the face. I know screws are hard but plywood driving them into the face of a new anvil
makes me question the the hardness. If it is dents I would think the screws are still in the plywood. Are they dents or scratches?
Check the face with a good straight edge and see if there really is a ridge around the dent or if it is just worn down into the face.

If you have acess to a lathe that will cut a left hand 11tpi make a new nut and cross feed screw of a form that is easier to cut.
That lathe won't care if it has an American standard thread

Is any one going to the RMS conf. next week? I'll be going to demo I hope to meet some of you while there.

No not be critical but if you all want to know. The main fram of the plow is called the beam.
The frog bolts to the beam, the moldboard, share, and landslide bolt to the frog.
Some plows have a replaceable shin ( leading edge of the moldboard) that also bolts to the frog.

When you sharpen a share you do not want the share to warp or it will no longer fit the frog
correctly. to prevent this only heat about an inch to no more than an inch and a half of the edge
to a cherry red in low light then forge the edge to a sharp edge. The point will most likely
be worn thin, this will need to be upset by hammering on the point before it is forged to the
correct shape and sharpened. If done right minimal grinding will be needed. Set the suck, both
down and to the landside. Depending on the type of share retemper, and buff on a cloth wheel
loaded with compound. Job is now complete.

One bottom plows are not to hard to do. Multiple bottoms will test your skill. All the shares
will have to have the same shape and suck for the plow to run right. It helps to work the most
worn share first so you have plenty of steel to work with to match the shape.

Would you rather have the anvil or the friend? Give it back and like others have said
something you made for the Barber and the owner. Doing the right thing always pays off
sooner or later. Make a hardy for it and give that back with it. Find a pair of tongs
or a hammer to go along. It'll add to the decor and could start a trend at the shop.
With others interest no telling what opportunities might arise.

If you are reslly interested in learning about plows, plowing, are care of them
I recomend the book the Draft Horse Primer. It has a great tutorial with pics
about plows and there use and care. Next best thing to hands on help.

Alot more info is needed here. Is it a walking plow, horse drawn riding plow, single or multiple bottom,
or tractor drawn, what type soil. also what type share, chilled, soft center, solid steel?
Also it will be much easier to under stand if you have actually plowed before. Are you going to use a
power hammer or a hand hammer? I know it's a lot of questions but till you know all of this don't even
think of heating or hitting it.

Matt haven't heard from this rebuild in 3 months hope all is OK.

It may be the first model. Did I understand that it has a hole thru the frame?
If so it is very old made in the 1890's I think.

Comparing a 50lb anything to a 25lb anything else is not very useful. But here goes. I have
used both if all I was going to do was draw, taper etc the Tire hammer might be better.
If I thought I would need to use tooling The LG is much better. the problem with the tire
hammer is too little die opening for tooling and there is no adjustment on the pittman
to increase it. There are ways around this but not as the tire hammer is designed now.
If you went to a 50 LG in my opinion the LG hands down the better. I know I am going to
stir up a hornets nest here with tire hammer fans, but a properly rebuilt and tuned LG is
very useful and versatile hammer. If you are looking for a hammer send me a private message
I have a friend who wanted to sell me a 50 LG last week.

When you first see that the hole is off center, take a heat then cool the thin side in water before you
drift it. As you drift the hot side will stretch and the cold side will not. With a little experence
you will be able to recenter the hole. Clifften Ralph showed me this one.

Eric if you want to see the pull go to presses, page 2, Pics I hope, posted Dec 31 2010

I groove all 4 side of 1/2 inch square 4 in. long in 1 heat. My chisel is H13 1/8 thick 1 1/4 wide with no
radius on the cutting end except for the corners have a small radius. My guide has a piece of 1/4 in. square
on both sides welded to a plate of steel with about .010 clearance. I think the thickness and the radius of
your tooling is causeing the stock to curve upward Also turn the stock 180 to do the second side then 90
then 180. I set the stop nut to control the depth. I have a small cup with a handle on it filled with water
to cool the tool quickly after 2 sides.