peacock

it's a fiber lined clutch I use leather, but Sid sells acomposite that works very well. You will have to take the shaft out slide the pully off,
clean all the old lining off and rivet or bolt on new lining.

your dies what each other? hit hard, miss? How far apart are your dies at bottom dead center? How tall is the top and bottom die? Does your hammer have wood blocks, fiber lining, or is it metal to metal clutch? Need lots more info?

Don't she know that wrought iron and cast iron together can kill flowers. if you drop it on them

It's a tire roller allright. Only thing missing is the hand crank. Right again pullys don't belong to it. neither does the dog.

Why don't you PM me we only live 20 miles apart. also there is an event this weekend you might not want to miss. I work in Cameron every day.

The nuts on the tee bolts are used to adjust the spring tension. the most common method of locking them is put 2 nuts on each bolt then hold the nut closest to the arm with a wrench and jam the second nut up against the first with another wrench.

Clinton not all saws can be flipped. Some saws have a device to relieve down pressure on the blade for the return stroke.
Better check yours out before you try.

check out The Ozark Pattern has all the same featurers made in America, I love mine.

If everything is right takes 1 person less than 20 seconds.

4x4 is alot of seel to move. Those dies are 5 or 6 inches wide. that means 20 to 30 square inches of contact. Also pretty close to flat.
The hammer is doing a pretty good job, look at the end of the bar it is bulging a sure sign it's being forged clear thru the entire cross section.
I think there may be something to be gained by opening the dies a little farther , and maybe increasing the stroke, But on that size hammer
that is a fair amount of work. Maybe not worth it if you only need to do 1 piece. Michael thanks for sharing this I have a 125# they are great hammers.

My welding suupply store has them. Last time I bought one about $9 ,Been a while

I agree with John. Also check the saw frame on the slide bar to see if it is loose , should be a way to take up the slack if there is any.
My saw is a Saw Master, and it was doing things similar to yours. I changed ends with the blade. Mine cutts square with the blade cutting
on the push side of the stroke. The saw at my buddies cutts better on the pull, might give it a try, don't cost much.

original design tire hammer has no adjustment for die opening.

bigfoot, If he is useing a V block to suppoet the sides ther will not be a dark spot and the dimple WILL still be there.
He never ask how to slit and drift, he ask how to mark the stock 180 apart

Heat it up set it on the anvil and hit it as square on top as you can, but not very hard. Hammer mark on top anvil mark 180 degrees on bottom.
Your "v block" should work . A piece of flat welded to the bottom of a piece of angle iron might be more useful.

Also just for your info. Many times when you weld around a nut the weld will shrink the ID of the nut. With a standard thread just run a tap thru it no problem. Might have a little trouble finding an acme thread tap. Thought it might save a nut and some trouble.

As I look at your drawing I don't see the need to be so long. I think leg vises are long to better deal with the non parallel jaw issue.
If that is dealt with by the rollers and guide at the bottom is there really any reason to make it long. You could build a square slide
and put the screw inside it to minimize binding. Then you are really building a bench vise. Nothing wrong with that. Food for thought.
Keep us posted.

The local amish harness shop has one of those . They use it to form leather. They have 2 piece forms made of wood kinda like we have closed dies. They soak a piece of leather put it between the forms squeeze it tight ,leave it till dry and the leather stays that way.

Hi Don, Go to the top of the home page click on forums, scroll down to second item,
I think it's feedback & support, under that click on tailgating.

Frank: I think I really like your big sister. I seem to spend a lot of time around the latter group.

This has gotten way off topic, But here is my 2 cents
Most people learn by observation, there are a few who learn by experimentation.
And then there are those who actually touch the fire to see if it is really hot.

1/4 x 1 1/4 inch box jaw will give a good hold. Should work for both 1/8 and 1/4.
The correct size V bit would also work, But box jaws are built for flat bar.

Flat bar has 3 dimensions thickness, width and length. If you can give us the rest of the sizes we can answer your question. If it's long enough you may not need tongs at all.

Grant
It's in tailgating about 1/2 way down 5th page

I use 20 parts boiled linseed 1 0r 2 parts bees wax. I keep it in an old crockpot, heat it up to a slow boil paint it on.
Works great on wood or metal. It can be a little slow to dry but gives great protection & looks. By yhe way when
your done with it put the lid on the crockpot and the stuff you left on the edge of the pot will cool off and seal it up
keeping the oil from evaporating.