peacock

Just came in from the shop. I went out to check my facts before I responded. Chalk and soapstone work well, but I think
WD 40 or charcoal lighter fluid is better. I had to refresh the chalk after just a few strokes, but could file alot longer with
the wet lube. It does cause the chips to collect on the file but were easily brushed away with a fingernail brush
or tooth brush. Even a glove hand cleaned them off. WD 40 will also keep grinding wheels from clogging when grinding
aluminum.

Very satisfing when you can make your own parts. Good job. Now 1 out of 4 has broken. While you have your hammer back in operation make you some spares so you don't have to forge them by hand next time. If you make a couple you will never break another one. :)

Kinda depends on when the hammer was built. are the bolts on the ram guide bushing tight? There may be a brass tapered wedge in the ram guide is it adjusted properly? Inside the case there is a treadle stop adjust so you get about an inch stroke at the top ( just like holding the treadle down a little). 1/8th turn on the oiler is plenty for most hammers. When it's cold I open it about 1/2 turn hold the treadle down to make about 90% stroke till I see oil in clear hose then back to 1/8th turn. Remove both mufflers hold your hand over each pipe one at a time one should suck the other blow if not remove top cover and top hat looking thing on top of rear cylinder see if one or more of the check valves has unscrewed if so replace and safety wire together so they wont back off also check to see if there is trash in the valve. Also might start checking belt tension or other slippage problem.

If it's a new style as you said it will have a sow block that can be replaced. I think Sid has new ones for around $600. If the frame is cracked where the sow block wedges in the frame I have fixed those without much trouble. No welding or banding, just drilling, counter boring, and tapping

3 guided helve, 1guided helve strap hammer and 1 cushioned helve hammer. If any one wants a hammer to draw stock fast you cannot beat the cushioned helve hammer ( my opinion). All of these hammers will make great additions to a shop. If there is a down side they do take up more floor space than most. I got a 125# guided helve from Matt Lamey and 2 40# cushioned helves, I have ran them for several years on 6 inches of 7 bag mix concrete, 2 inches of hard yellow pine and a 1/2 inch conveyor belt. No problems at all. I think the 22 to 1 ram to anvil ratio is the key. Another up side is they can easily be taken apart into smaller parts with a few big wrenches. Makes moving them much easier if you have limited lifting capacity.
I can tell you more if you like needless to say I like Bradleys.

It could be worth a lot if you had the rest of the parts and a broke frame. Some old stye parts will work on that frame, but you must have the new style ram and guides. The whole top assembly will work fine even the arms will work with some custom made toggle links. Die aliginment can be an issue.

Alot of tire hammers rock. The biggest reason is when they weld the upright on the base plate it pulls the edges of the plate up.

I agree with the above post, but there are a couple of things to check first, Make sure the corner of the dove tail on the die
that is the other side of the key has a good radius so it is not touching the corner in the ram. Next make sure the die dovetail is tapered from end to end. Also check to see if the dovetail in the ram is straight ( not tapered) end to end. And last after you get the key in, make sure it is not hitting the wrap around guide.

Never soak a handle in water. It will swell the wood but it will also dry out and be worse than before.
Soak them in ethylene glycol (antifreeze will work). You will only have to do it one time. Just soak the head not the whole handle.

Thanks for the help Grant.

The process that starts this is called pyroloisi. I'm sorry I don't know how to put up a link, but please google tire explodes from welding on a wheel that will take you to youtube watch the one from bridgestone tires. It may save your life.

If you do weld that pin to the wheel you must dismount the tire before welding. People have lost there lives welding on wheels with a tire mounted. I know some of you will said I've done that with no problem. I hope I can find the viedo to post where this was tested. It can explode seveeral minutes after the weld is finished as a slow burn can continue inside the tire.

I would rethink the steel/aluminum thing. Alum. is lighter but you will need to increase the thickness to get the same strength as steel. Cost will be much higher, you will still have to protect from corision. Your bus looks like a 72 passenger. It's meant to haul about 7,500 lbs of passengers. properly designed steel boxes will not need framing.
I don't think the extra weight of the steel over the alum. is a big factor. I have done 2 bus conversions and they are a lot of work but can be very nice when finished. Raising the top that much will drastically decrease your fuel mileage.

No, as far as the hammer goes. I would guess maybe whoever assembled the hammer had 2 right arms and didn't know the difference. The last few hammers were assembled by people who didn't know the hammers very well. It will not hurt anything either.

Welcome GT. Ther will be a BSM meeting near Versailles Nov 5. Come be our guest and get to know the group. I live at Hamilton, and my son lives in Columbia we get down there sometimes looking forward to meeting you. PM me if you need directions to the meeting.

Heat the cube, Quench the top 1/3 of the cube to black put it on the flat dies and smack a few times. Don't go to far as the top will heat back up.
If it don't look like you want play with the process. After you do a few you may get what your after. I some times I quench both the top and bottom then flatten it clear down you will have the top and bottom outline in the 2 faces. Have fun!

block is about 34 lbs

You might try makeing a shank on the bic long enough to reach the red stand then weld a scocket to the stand to stabilize the bottom. With a good shoulder and that long shank supported that far away it sould not wobble. It could be round and welded to the shank

Make a new stand put a heavy plate on top with a good hardy hole in it. Drill a 7/8 hole in it heat it up drift it to 1 inch square. Make tools to fit.
Brian Braizal uses this check out some of his post.

I think 1500 is light. My 40# Bradley anvil wt. is 900#. My 125# guided helve anvil 2500#. We have a 200# like yours but haven't done any thing with yet.
Yours is a little different as the dies angled. First time I have seen that on a Bradley.

Waste of time and fuel, but you will know more after you try. The best use for them, is weight for Nakedanvil's flypress modification.
My Dad made gate closers with them.

Thats correct.

No, the crank pin is a press fit in the crank plate. The crosshead slides up and down on the pittman. Also is not hit height it adjusts the die opening

The t thing is the crosshead, the small end of the toggle arms fasten to them. The crosshead slides up and down on the pittman which swings on the crankpin.The clutch spider is keyed solid to the shaft. The shifting fork is what pushes the belt pulley foward onto the spider.

Do not force anything that does not come apart with ease. The crankplate and clutch spider are held on the shaft
with tapered keys if you force them the wrong way you will break them. Sid does not sell new ones so be careful.
You really should get some help they are simple but some things are not apparent to the untrained person.