Dan C

wrought iron

Seems to move the metal more efficiently.

This was my starter anvil, still sees plenty of use.

I emailed the 60# last week and the guy said it was sold.  Why he doesn't remove the ad I don't know.  To 2nd or 3rd what Glenn said, I have a 200# PW but still often use my RR track anvil that sees like regular use.

A 110# anvil just hit your local radar for $135.  The ad doesn't include the name brand.

For those that have neighbors nearby what about using coke, anthracite coal or charcoal?  Guess I'm fortunate that my neighbors aren't too close and tolerant of my hobby but currently I'm using a mixture of ~70% homemade charcoal, 30% anthracite or industrial coke.

Sweet, I'm drooling!

How many burners?  Question back at ya, what do you intend to make?  An even better reason to go to Balcones Forge or get w/ a local blacksmith to get a better idea of what you want to do. 

Just realized you're in San Antonio.  Look up Balcones Forge and read about the upcoming events.  Really great group of people and there are some fantastic learning opportunities coming up.  I'm kicking myself for not being able to make the next 2 meetings which look really, really good, but family comes first and there are conflicts on each one.  Invite your wife along, especially to the Mark Aspery demo in Marble Falls and take her out to eat at the Blue Bonnet Cafe.

http://www.balconesforge.org/

Yep, do what works for you and your family but I would attend these meetings before you invest a lot of time and money into something.  I went to the November meeting and all the newbies especially got a lot of time at the forge & anvil.

Then do what's right for you at your current skill set level and available tools.  My forge is a coal/charcoal burner, basically fast & easy to make.  If I'd gone with propane it'd have taken longer and stretched my abilities more.  I do most of all my own automotive work, but my automatic transmission was slipping and needed to be rebuild.  Could I have done it myself?  Probably but I decided to instead pull it myself and take it to a shop because sometimes it makes more sense to have someone else do the work.  Do what works for you.

Rashelle's right btw, spend what money you can on lessons.  You could even forgo the forge & tools for now and just join your local ABANA group or take some classes to get an idea if you like it or not.

"What's the benefit of building your own?"  I like to weld, access to scrap materials, like to make something out of nothing, money is tight, I can build it exactly like I want.  I use my forge table also as a welding table, even an occasional sawhorse, and it was built in less than a day.  I also don't worry about it getting scratched or making modifications to it as I see fit.  If I had had the spare cash I would've rather spent the money on a tool that I couldn't build for myself.  Don't forget you'll need an anvil or a big chunk of steel and other expenses may come along, including fuel.  One thing I like about this hobby is learning to be creative and making something out of nothing, or what someone else would throw away. 

Then you hear often about making your own tongs.  Yes, I've made 2 pairs but then I've bought 3 because it was faster and suited my purposes better.  Do what suits you, not somebody else.

I'll be interested to hear from others but for forging purposes I'd go with the hot rolled and only buy from a metal supply store, not HD or Lowes way overpriced.  And usually you can pick up mild steel in the drop zone for 40 cents a lb at a metal supply, or whatever the going scrap rate is now.  The only time I buy cold rolled is if I need something to be the exact dimensions and normally that would be a welding project.

I've used some large threaded bolts to make swage tools that fit in my anvil's hardy hole.  Vaughn's suggestion of pound them down and looking like a spiral could be interesting.  Welcome to the forum & to blacksmithing!  If you haven't already done so look to see if there is a local ABANA group near you.  You'll learn much faster getting to work with other smiths that doing it alone.

Almost forgot to say, very nice job on the forge!!!

I looked over Ian's thread again, as well as the others.  It doesn't look like there's a bottom on the inner drum.  I'm just thinking that if the inner drum had a bottom and insulation it might retain heat better and keep the outer drum from wearing out over time.  Thoughts?

Is there a bottom to the inner barrel with insulation between it and the outer barrel?

Polish any type steel regardless of carbon content then heat it and you'll see the tempering colors. That doesn't mean it will harden. I'd recommend reading the knife making classes, especially the areas on heat treating.

Did these today. At least the bottle opener is functional and the hearts could be used as a picture frame.

Love it!

I was thinking about this just this morning as things are slower here as well, glad to hear you heard back on those commissions!  In addition to what's already been said my ears perk up for any odd welding or mechanic jobs.  Just casually I asked I guy at the gym today how his old truck was running.  Next thing I know he's telling me about everything that's going wrong on it and if I know a good mechanic.  I don't know one because I do all my own work, but told him what I would roughly charge and gave him my contact info.  Times like this it's good to have other needed skills.

These are great!  Thanks for sharing!!!

Awesome, congratulations!

Another advantage I've wondered about if you're able to heat just a specific area of a project like you can do with a solid fuel forge.  Seems like you couldn't unless part of it sticks out of the gas forge, whereas coal you put whatever area you need to work over the hotter areas of the fire.  Though you could always use the slack tub to cool parts that you needed to.

Very nice job turning round stock into square stock and the twist looks good, very even.  I would agree Steve's suggestion for a flat paddle on the end.  There's no reason you can't adjust this one the next time you go to the forge or make a new one and for practice experiment with a different type of handle.  Here is the first thing I made, a fire rake which I still use to this day.  My complaint was it's a little short when used for charcoal so later I made a longer one.

that's gotta be the first time on IFI that no one is going to ask for pictures

I mentioned 1095 because that's what I've worked with for most of the knives I've made, but because the person who'd receive the knife works on a saltwater fishing boat, I thought (maybe incorrectly) that it should be made from something more rust resistant.  I did wonder if 1095 finished to a high enough polish would provide it with enough rust resistance in that environment if properly maintained.  I imagine that is what was done prior to stainless being available and seem to recall mention of that in the forum.

I'm also seeing this as an opportunity to expand what I can work with.  Some people (including my wife) prefer to always use SS in their kitchen.  Steve & Rich thank you for confirming what I was starting to see that ats34, 154cpm & 440c would need to be sent out for HT'ing, I don't have the equipment to maintain a heat range like that, but knowing that the 440c is forgeable gives me ideas.