andys MQ

Sorry my friend I can't weld the cylinders AND rods. But I believe I could weld just the two cut off cylinder tops and keep it within the limits. The rod would be just one of the rods from the two cylinders.

It's just cutting the top of a ram and welding it to another. What could be simpler with no lathe or big boring equipment? I'm all for easy options, willing to share Jeremy? I guess what I'm really interested in is what would be the service life on the ram seals ect if used like this? Would it even last?

So this will make it as clear as mud I'm sure but maybe give a slightly better idea of what I mean.

Don't understand the concept? will see what I can do

so i have been thinking about a easy ( for me at least) head design for a kinyon style, or guided helm (rusty style). i was just thinking the modified kinyon head from gearhearts and love it but i dont have access to machining equipment. i just thought what if i took 2 hydraulic cylinders of the same diameter, cut the top 3-6 inces off and welded them together the matching cylinder rod could pass up and down through them both . driven by either a air ram as the kinyons are or maybe as the rusty are. I doubt if the rusty would have the power for that sort of set up, but for a cheap option for a guide with no machining. it would require welding it and keep it straight but im sure i can do that, and you could fill or put an amount of oil in there to lube it up as it goes. anyway that's the idea. what do you think? to much resistance? would the standard ram seals ect hold up to that sort of work? im sure people have used hydraulic rams as air rams on hammers so i guess they would.

cheers mate

hey guys have a question about this style of hammer the spring dont really do nothing with the ram so close to the head. in which case is it correct to beleive a air ram set op like these dont really need a spring? and what are people thoughts on a plastic bush instead of brass? when i say plastic i mean that uhmc or what ever its called.

im down in rivas at the moment. but yes send through the contact details for the new forge. if i am passing by i can drop in and see how they are getting along. im no master smith by any means, but im sure i can encourage them to keep up the good work.

hey champ where abouts in nicaragua did this happen? just wondering since im there at the moment

im almost 100% sure they would be a chrome molly alloy making them hard and wear resistant. i guess it would make a good knife being wear resistant. in reality carbon is used but i think you will find things like chrome, nickel and molybdenum have much more effect on the steel then carbon. the problem with carbon in applications today ( in my opinion) is it relys on heat treatment/ tempering to give it the quality's you want. it is easier to just make an alloy that don't need to be temped. It also means that unlike carbon steel it is more permanent. Hardened carbon steel can become annealed for example if exposed to heat. so anyway i think they would be a chrome moly alloy

there was a post about when are you a blacksmith? i think when you can work as efficiently as this guy you are a blacksmith

Love it !!!

I was reading a book on carpentry, specifically about making barrels and chests. I was about 15 then. It had a section in it about making your own hinges and clasps and stuff. I then when and got books on blacksmithing. Started buying anything I though I might need built a brick forge 1m x1m in an old dairy that was out the back. Then I moved before I got to use any of it xxxx it. Took an apprenticeship as a boiler maker ( fabricator) when I was 18, and have finally now at 27 built another forge that I am actually using. What's that like a 12 year journey.

Nice ! That flange is welded on ay?

Yup I think you got it there ( IMO ) when you have the confidence to do just do a job with no doubts you will achieve it, to a quality that nobody doubts it ability to perform. That would about do it for me.

To my way of thinking if it is a heavy edged tool it want be damaged too too much. As in as a bottom fuller it should be not too bad but for anything with a sharp edge even just like a 90 degree edge will be deformed quite quickly. That is just my opinion I haven't actually tried it though

Good answer :-)

Oh yer that is probably what I'm getting confused with Brian's hotcuts

Yer cool I was thinking about the same. The hardie hole in mine is quite square though so that is a good thing it looks to be cast steel ( I may be completely wrong) rather than punched

Hi all I feel like a bit of a learner here but just wondering are hardies ment to be tapered or straight? Or does it depend on what anvil you have? Mine is straight but it looks like some on hear are tapered

Yes I will for sure:-) was just in a rush to make the tongs work. Might have to search for how to forge a taper, the one I did was just with my hammer and a bit rushed so is sort of all over the place

Yer bending forks sounds like a good idea as I use coil springs from a car for my tongs and such.

Hi all so just getting things started and have made a pair of tongs and a very dodgy punch for the rivet in the tongs. But not sure what to make next i think maybe a hot set for the hardy. And of course I will make more tongs. What do you use the most ? Only really interested in tool making at the moment. So, what do you reckon? What next?

Awesome thanks for the info will get onto a stand tomorrow I think. Will have a look for some decent steel for a base too. If not I might try the Concret idea.

Just saying hi. I'm new to the forum and to black smithing really Have done a lot of reading but not much actual smithing Going to build my forge tomorrow and then try make some form Of stand for the anvil after that. I'm in derby wa if anyone else here is from West Australia drop me a message Cheers andy