armymedic.2

I got my shipment today of a few different steels. Nine days after i ordered so i suppose thats not too bad but not really quick either. It was well packed and labeled. Overall Im satisfied. Im only in ny though so im wondering how you get yours in two days and mine takes more than a week. Maybe they have a first time customer prejudice :)

Awesome. I ordered from them and am waiting to see how timely they are. Thanks!

Thanks!

I'm working on a hunting sword that has a 21 inch blade made out of 1075. The thickness at the hilt is 5/16. Tapering down to about an 1/8 at the point. One inch wide. On my knives I leave the blade about the thickness of a dime to prevent cracking during the quench. Is that a good rule of thumb for these longer blades as well or should it be thicker? Thanks very much!

Thanks steve, read alot there last year and forgot about that!

So far all of my blade smithing have been knives from springs and im looking for a source of known steel to start practicing longer blades (dirks mostly). Any sources you all have as a go to that ships reasonably? Thanks for your input

well done, i like the fulleriing accent near the bottom

I swapped the .025 mig tip for a .035 like you said, instantly a ton more blue flame, but it seemed to still not be getting enough air. I put four more aspiration holes in a ring below the ones that i had already, in effect setting the tip back amongst the holes (like you said to), also giving it more places to suck air in from, it now runs on a wide range of pressures, has some dragons breath, and is hotter than i have ever had it before. it was a pleasure to hit the steel. i was able to achieve a lighter orange than ever before on bigger stock, and hit a pure yellow on smaller and tapered stock, but i never got to a white heat. i deliberately did try to burn some metal. no dice. i think painiting some plastix might help. and of course, is it running optimal now or is it still too much blue or something else im missing? thankyou for all of your help, it is making such a difference! best, keith

Roger that frosty. I will make the changes and report back. Thanks for taking the time to reply

This is how my forge runs currently. i had just fired it up. it is only 192 cubic inches, 4 high, six wide, 8 deep. it has a flapper door on the back it is firebrick only, no coating yet. i can get a deep orange turning to yellow shade, but i can not get any hotter than that. hoping that a coating will help, and that someone agrees i may need more air getting in. i am still thinking about drilling more aspiration hoes in the 3/4 " tube. .025 mig tip. you can see very clearly the propane stream throiugh the aspiration holes with your naked eye. well formed anmd consistent jet stream. pretty cool stuff. the flare is new and tight fitting.

Nice man. I like it.

Looks neat. U have a pic that shows the whole handle end?

Just finished these up this morning. I learned alot about splitting and punching and rounding holes. I also had to make punches to make these so i am very happy i did them. They are not as nice as some ive seen, but they work and taught me a ton

Correction. Tube is eight inches long. Internal of forge is 6x8x 4

There is dragons breath. It is blue. I apologize for not being exact about tube length and intake holes, im three hours away from home now working. Hopefully the video plays, as it shows how well it can do. It runs now and most of the time, the only thing is it is incredibly picky to get it set right. When it is not running properly the fire starts on the floor and is blue and yellow. Running how i think is proper is as u see here. I achieve non magnetic easily, but so far can not weld , though admittedly i never tried until now so it could just be my inexperience. During the day stock comes out looking a few shades if range above cherry red. At night it begins to look a slight bit yellow past orange. I am not able to achieve the hot yellow white color i could get with my charcoal forge The other thing to note, is that my flare are not airtight against the pipe. There is about an 1/8" gap all around where the flare meets the pipe. The tiniest little blue flame is visible comming out of this gap at night, probably less than a half inch long if that Your council is appreciated!

The 3/4 " tube is seven inches long if i remember right. Orifice is .025. The forge takes about five minutes or less to start glowing if not in full sunlight. Stock heats quickly. Probably 1 1/2 minutes from cold for thinner stock. Reheats only take thirty seconds or so

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The above is suppose to be a video. Maybe click it to play. Not working on my phone

First, ive been reading alot on here and have come to the conclusion that i may not have enough air coming into my homemade naturally aspirated burner. It either runs great, or the flame ignites on the fooor of the forge. A full six inches from the end of the burner. My guts says to drill a couple more intake holes to allow more air in the burner, mixing and igniting in the flare where it belongs. Am i right or is it likely the opposite, and i need the fewer aspiration holes to create the vaccuum and draw the air in. Second, my homemade flare burned up after about 40 hours or so. This is premature yes? It is not in the forge chamber, yet can get very red hot. The 3/4 inch pipe itself does not get hot, only the flare itself. Thanks yall and am learning a ton. The build and much if what i have accomplished has all been from reading here

thanks bud. they are for using as small game finishers and dressing game. they work pretty good. i have been using the one with the deepest ridges alot and it hasnt broken yet but you are right. its only a matter of time! i did upset one of them but i have a feelingi should have gone alot further! we dont throw them. thanks for lookin! cheers

I've got some great spring steel to work with......but i ain't touching it yet. These were all done with spikes, and my hammer marks are getting slightly better, splitting/drifting is going alot better, and drawing out seems to be working alot faster than before. i finally got around to making some hardy tools yesterday, and i can't believe i ever flattened anything without a fullering hardy. sooooo much easier. I finished these out, sans the file work/grinding because i want to work on my hammering most of all, and my family/friends dig the rough look so long as i am giving them hawks! i have much to learn and many more of these under my belt, but though i'd share to let ya know wherre i am at and hopefully show you sooner than later, an improvement. I think next i'll do a sword........just kidding! here they are. oh,,,,,charcoal brake drum forge, powered by my wifes hairdryer :} lucky enough to have a real 150 lb anvil

Prob a dumb question. Why use a punch plate over the Pritchett hole? Does it keep nicer edges I'm guessing? Thanks for the video, fantastic reference!