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I Forge Iron

aessinus

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Posts posted by aessinus

  1. On ‎7‎/‎17‎/‎2017 at 5:36 PM, VaughnT said:

    I had always heard talk about this mysterious 'sucker rod' but we're short of oil fields here in South Carolina and I never had the chance to work with the stuff.  

    ...............

    The only bad part about the stuff is not having a local source.  

    Try the term "pump rod" also.  It might help.  TPAAT works on other stuff too.

  2. Another suggestion, make your rings as a continuous spiral around the mandrel, like a big spring.  Gives you leverage from the straight stock & you only have the initial flat on the start where the end is clamped.  The rings will come out almost the same size that way.  Cut 'em apart afterward.

  3. On ‎6‎/‎27‎/‎2017 at 3:33 PM, Frosty said:

     Any idea how I can lose 2" off my diameter? 

    Ack, sorry boss,  Fingers working faster than brain.  Should have said "INSIDE" diameter.  It was a 12" air tank from loooong ago.  I did snort coffee though. 

    Thanks for the Seattle Pottery Supply lead.  I'll add that to my material vendor's list.

  4. Frosty says the question does belong here, not Burners 101.  Here goes.  I want to reline my forge & was wondering since 2" wool was recommended, why not 3"?

    I can stand to lose the 2" off the diameter.  I've never used it without the firebrick volume eliminators.  I'd also be interested to experiment with any new-fangled face coats that anyone has rumors of.  My maintenance mgr at work wants me to get this one tuned up so he can duplicate it for the repair/r&d shop...

  5. How many links do you have in the length?  I'll have to check this evening, but I seem to recall my old leather tugs have chain ends like that for attaching to a single-tree.  Store-bought, fancy, pulling gear, maybe for shows/contests?  Before tractor pulls there were draft pulls....

    Gee, the size didn't click.  My chains aren't near that big, but the fullers do look familiar.

  6. 19 hours ago, Frosty said:

     On the good side the flame face is literally bullet proof, I did so much welding in it I didn't have to flux welds just roll them on the floor once it was hot. The spilled flux was in a puddle about 1.5" wide I don't know how deep that ran front to back. You could just dip some up like it was honey and drizzle it on the weld joint. I made a rake and little scoop to clean it our when it started getting in the way but flux had zero effect on the refractory.

    I want (need) to use that material for my re-line.  I'm a klutz.  Also, since 2" of wool is the recommendation, why not 3"? 

    Voted, btw.  Should I move the question over there?

  7. 47 minutes ago, JHCC said:

    "...I gather it's possible to make a vacuum chamber out of a mason jar, a brake bleeder, and some fittings. Hopefully someone with a bit more experience can chime in.

    Thx, JHCC, never heard of one, but HF has one for 25 bucks.  Should save me hauling my supplies up to work (access to our handy shop oven vacuum).  It might require some dithering over or adding a reservoir chamber as the gas releases from amongst the wood fibers.

  8. On ‎5‎/‎28‎/‎2017 at 4:32 PM, Mikey98118 said:

    I am waiting for an answer back on prices. "A salesman is going to call."

    Mike, did you ever receive an answer?  I can't, for love or money, locate anything regarding pricing on their site.  Their order form even has a blank to populate.  :wacko:

    Their claim regarding the 311 foam blocks, "2000ºF, white hot, parts can be immersed in water with out cracking.", sounds awesome tough.  As a material resource for work, I've just got to have some to trial.  I can envision a forge for our tool fab shop....

     

     

  9. 4 hours ago, Hawgdirt said:

    I know there is a blueprint for a brick forge, but I don't have permissions to view the Bp 100 series.

    What is this permissions of which you speak?  Just kidding, the article loads way down the page after article list. 

    <Pg dwn> a couple times when you think you should have it.

  10. Frosty beat me to the thread files.  As a maintenance guy, we swear by them to repair "hammered" threads on our machine tools & equipment.

    Slag, thanks for the tip on the jeweler's saw.  I have one at the home shop, now the maintenance guys get a couple too.  Good excuse to hit the craft supply during lunch.

  11. 19 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

    I'm always jealous of you guys down in Oil, mining, drilling areas.. It seems like they scrap more stuff or just leave it on the sides of the roads.. :)

    Makes it nice to drop by the welding supply for 25' joints of used 3/4" sucker rod - $10 each.  Known steel, fairly clean, the last foot at each end is already upset to ~1-1/4" for top/bottom tool blanks, punches & drifts.  They keep it on hand for high end horse fence mostly.

  12. I too am beginning into burner trials.  A major portion of my needs are in jewelry-sized work; I started out with 3/8 & 1/4 inch endeavors.  Thanks to everyone for posting the moon-sized mass of information.  I'll keep reading.

    "Mikey burn and frost bite" forced me to post.  Now I'll clean up the coffee I spat all over my desk.

     

  13. 1st pic, 2nd item down on left.  Looks like a re-use of the hinge from an old folding buggy top or doctor's hack. 

    Blacksmiths tend to reuse things occasionally; I happen to have a set of dividers that g-g-granpa made from the same type hinge.

  14. It appears that it is a constant 160 graduations per revolution, approx. 51 unit diameter.  Could it be a traveler wheel in millimeters & fractional inches?  6.29 diameter?  So hard to tell from the photo... intriguing.

    I ignored the strange, repeating "betwixt" numerals, but they seem to fall in patterns every 10 units, digits 1-8 only though.  Maybe an octal to binary translator....

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