Spots

Yep I use the same thing. 15 yr old shop vac on a dimmer

I came home today, after getting the great news that I have been hired, to find an early gift in the mailbox. On another forum I am on we did a secret santa thing, and my Santa sent me a blacksmithing apron, 3 old files, and a small smooth wrench for twisting. Its been a great day all around

Which shoe is upside down? The vertical shoe is the same way it would be hung on a farriers rack, and the horizontal shoe is the same way it would be put on the horse. So if its upside down there are a lot of unlucky horses in this world. And thanks for the compliments

I wanted to make something nice for my Aunt and Uncles recently built cabin and decided on a hat/coat rack, with horseshoe holders for coal oil lamps. I forged out the metal flat bar, punched the holes, then peened in the cross bar, added several hooks. I then welded up the hoseshoes for lamp holders, and used a plunge router to cut in the names.

I like them both, but the cuffs would drive me crazy, and it seems like they would do the same thing as welding glove cuffs and catch and hold hot cinders and slag to you arms. Where did you get them made at?

With clay to get a hamon, or just differentially hardening? I use Tai Goos.method of going deep edge first then pulling back to allow the back to cool slower, and having a hard edge. Then depending the knife Ill either temper in an oven or i will also differentially temper in the forge drawing the back to a blue and the edge to a straw.

Like how long per blade? I started with a piece of barstock 8:30 am or so, and had both of them forged, rough ground, normalized, and hardened by 4:00 pm. I'll have probably 10-12 hours in both by the time I'm done doing handles, guard, and final grind If you asking how long I've been forging blade shapes like that, for about 6 months, but I've only really focused on anything other than forge finished knives made for myself in the last 3. I just really got into the grinding stuff. I've been working around a forge since I was a kid, though a lot of it was just making and fixing stuff for our homestead, nothing fancy

From what I've seen of stormcrows work he leaves a light forge finish on most of his blades, which some people like, and some people don't. I do believe this is finished, Id be happy to carry one of his blades. On another note, whats that outter wrap called on this one?

Why wouldn't it be done yet?

Those are actually smaller than most of my bowies. My normal bowie has a 13" blade, so those are an inch shy of that. I like big knives lol

These are going into a custom order. Large 17" bowies, hidden tangs. 1084 steel, hand forged. These are the rough ground blanks, the back will be left forged finish, with a 600 grit finish on the bevels. Flat ground edge, clip is convex ground.

Thank you very much. I'm just a rougb steel beater trying to make something useful, but the complements are always enjoyed, and give me a lil confidence boost to make another, and always trying to learn and better myself and my projects.

Was at the shop the other day and got to looking at my old mans hammers. He has this 24 lb cross pein he bought back in the 70's for $5 from the scrap yard. He used it for driving big wooden fence post, and we still do, and we have also used it for moving large stock. Now my question. Is it normal for a hammer this size to be a cross pein? All the big hammers I can find are 20 lb, I haven't found any other 24 lb or bigger hammers. And I haven't found anything close to this big with a cross pein. Any info is appreciated Thank you

My normal knives are 9" or larger so I decided a couple of smaller blades where in order. Medium belt knife, 5.5 blade, wrapped handle, hand sanded to 400 grit Small edc blade. 3.75" blade, 3.5 handle, wrapped handle, hand sandes to 400

Dang now thats a score....

A striker missing a lick with a 10-20 lb sledge will remove a horn or heel. I have't seen it done, but to hardened steel surfaces meeting under that much pressure, something is gonna give.

not harsh at all. I will look into reworking the handles. I thought they looked good, and probably will build another with larger handles as I may have these sold already. Do you think they would flow better longer or wider??

I found my track through a local gun forum, got about 8 ft of it. I dont know of any legal way to get them other than finding them on ebay, at a flea market, etc. I have probably 300-400 of them that Ive got from different people who have old retired railroads on their land. I would NOT suggest walking an active track as its dangerous and illegal and not worth getting hurt, killed, or jailed for a few spikes.

I really like that. Great job

I would also suggest cutting a hole and dropping it in flush. It lets you pass long pieces through the fire.instead of being limited to a few inches.

Newjerseysteelbaron.com I get all my steel from there for high carbon work. Ton if different optiond

This is my idea of the knife jim bowie had one the sandbar years ago. Most accounts say it was a heavy bladed guardless butcher knife with a clip pointso heres my version. Built from hoof rasp, full tang with purpleheart handles. Pre cleanup Heating for hardening Finished product

I never said it was a new idea, I just hadn't seen it before.

This is what I use http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_putty/overview/Loctite-Repair-Putty-Multi-Purpose.htm Its the same thing in the post as far as I know. I got mine at ACE hardware, and Lowes and home Depot have it also

Thats how I felt when I found that. So now I drill the hole oversized, epoxy fit, then drill and pin the handle, along with either peening the pommel/butt cap or screwing it on. Makes an extremely tight, rattle free handle