Dragons lair

Phil,I think you`ll find that dual shield will produce a much better quality weld than flux core alone.The right shield gas acts as both a fluxing and shielding agent and also will help the wire to jump up to spray transfer at a lower amperage if you use a mix.
Like different types of wire different shield gases and mixes have different applications where they work best and wires that they work best with.
The only real advantage of flux core alone and without shield gas is that you can weld nasty steel during a stiff breeze,but not too stiff.

If you are talking about those 110 toys they try to pass off as welders then all bets are off.Those things were designed for auto body and tin knocking and shouldn`t be considered for welding anything above heavy sheet metal.Buy one to weld something structural and the joke`s on you.

As Sask said IT is a 3rd pattern Hay budden 1908 or later can't get to AIA right now. anvil is solid tool steel
from the waist up. Now the PW would have a steel plate or plates on the face. Probably don't want to mill it. Try a belt sander first.
Ken.

I will check craigslist for a brand name welders, but the HF welder im looking at is a 110v 45% dutycycle hobbyist flux core only welder for only $100. I will eventually get a heavy duty(larger percentage dutycycle) brand name mig welder, but I want to get it new when I get the money to do so. I do most of my metal work without welds if possible anyway.

your probably right phil, and since I have 6-18 months before I get a wire welder, who knows i might just say to hell with it and go straight for the new mig setup.

First, I have to say that I am NOT soliciting bids. If I were asking for bids I would contact Glenn first about the subject. Second, to submit a bid the sales rep must be familiar and enrolled in the North Carolina E-Procurement. One of the many hazards when dealing with a state supported school.

I have funds to purchase ~ six anvils and ten heavy firepots. Price is the deciding factor on the actual count.

Before I decide on which brand and from whom to purchase I would appreciate personal opinions about NEW anvils. I cannot purchase used or needs repair due to the NC E-Procurement.

Approximately five years back I purchased four 110 Kg (260 pound) anvils. I will NOT consider that brand again. All four have thumbnail sized divets raised or broken out or a crack from one side to the other on the faces. One of the anvils has three of the divets broken out in the middle of the face. However, the edges are decent and not sevierly chipped. I must state that the supplier was super nice and I did not hold them responsible for an import.

I viewed the Ozark Anvil. I like it. The price is the stopper. I've looked at the Peddinghaus at Kayne's. I could get five of the #9 model. I'm attempting to get at least six anvils, as big as possible and keep it under $9000.00, tax, tags, title and shipping.

Same thing with the fire pots. I have a cut off at $4000. Not a penny more. When the new smithy is complete I'll have 10 forges, so I need ten coke burning firepots, providing that the funding doesn't suddenly get diverted elsewhere or trimmed down to the size of a Sears lawn mower shed.

Your recommendations and the reason why you like whatever will be helpful. Don't be afraid to make a suggestion. All suggestions will be oggled if I can locate them on the internet.

Thanks a bunch.

I have one of those
Its a 50 lber and in like new condition
Fellow that I got it from used to to crush cans with

Mike

What you want to do is put a tool steel face on the cast steel anvil.
So here is what I would do.
Get the face machined flat on a milling machine. Any shop that rebuilds engines can do this and it shouldn't cost much.
Buy a piece of tool steel for the top, preferably one that is "oil Hardened".
Drill 4 holes in the corners of the tool steel.
Drill 4 corresponding holes in the anvils face about 2 to 3 inches deep.
Tap the holes to receive 1/2" bolts.
Buy grade 8 or better bolts.
Countersink the bolt holes into the tool steel for half it's width.
Bolt the tool steel to the anvils face to a good torque.
Weld all around the heads of the bolts with a hard welding rod.
Grind off the bolt heads and welding that protrude above the face.
Have the face cut perfectly flat on a milling machine.
Case harden the face and then temper it.
Hammer away.
If you don't have access to a milling machine, then sand the face as flat as you can with a belt sander and use an anaerobic adhesive, like LockTight (there are a few brands) all over the face when you bolt it together. This will take out any gaps, but be sure to use the grade 3 stuff that creates a permanent bond. Grade 3 anaerobic glue is heat resistant and wont come lose when heated. You can put some down the bolt holes as well to take out any air spaces.

That's what I would do.

Don't have it anymore, could you point me in the right direction of what I should look for

Glenn;

A couple of months back you posted the "Advice" list on Live Blueprints. I would like permission to post that column to all the members of our Guild, especially in light of a couple of incidents we had at Saturday's meeting.

We are; thefcbg.org out of Tryon, NC and have over 30 members.

Thanks in advance, and thanks for all the work you do to provide us with this great Forum.

Free is always good, I was blessed with a boss who was impressed with solidworks. I now have a licenced solid works
on my puter.3D and all. But alas I am like frosty Too many bells whistles. Course his 9 yr old daughter has finished all the tutorials. D___M getting old sucks. Had turbocad and a client loaded autocad 2000 Just can't go on internet with it.
ken.

Seems to be in good shape. Works well. Apparently, the forge and anvil 35 years ago at an auction and has had them in the garage unused since then.

I can,t figure out how to cook a chicken on it though ? I guess you could fry it on plate but then no bbq flavor
Rob

Thomas, Ya get the quick draw award on this one. Picked up the book read went to post and dang there you were.
Ken.

You used JB Weld tho attach a face to your ASO? I have not found any use for a product like that myself, the only type of metal that I have found impossible to weld is pot metal, and shoe goo works good on that

Bolt down a tool steel face, drill all the way throw the ASO put in the bolts and drill holes in the tool steel that are the same size as the head of the bolt, thn weld the tool steel to the bolts.

I have made several firepots using 1/2" A-36 mild steel. I used 7018 rods to weld them up. I've never had a problem with my pot and the folks that got the other one's love them. I used 7018 because they are much smoother and can get x-ray quality welds.

Just a thought on this, Just becuse ya got a burner that burns perfect clamped inna vise don't mean it's gonna
work in your forge or visa versa. Run your test in the forge your gonna use. Tune the burner to the forge.
Ken.

Thanks to all for the replies. The face looks as if a whole bunch of folks that had no bizness doing so beat on it at one time or another. I'll try with the pics next week when I get home. Again, thanks.
Fred...

I would go with the angled legs. Not for support. It is easier to tip over a streight legged one
than an angled one. It's also eaiser to tip ome over than to pick one up. My 3 legged 130lb table
sits out in the weeds just cause I like stumps.
Ken.

I used to use them individually as bases for my small to medium sized sculptures. I don't think they are cast iron but some kind of forged steel.

Just my 3 cents worth. In this economy there is no rhyme or reason. My employer crashed in 01 Opened my own shop in 02. About 08 there was no work to be had. Went back to working for someone else. Now am #2 in the Co on salery
and able to still work at smithing in my shop or the other. My advise is if you are a creator ya can do well. If ya are a builder I hope ya got a client list.( I average about $100.00 a week in the shop. welding smithing and CNC cutting) Did a $100 repair today(couldnt buy a replacment part)The mech broke the part. Repalcement is out of his pocket. Lesson I learned long time ago. If ya do some one wrong they tell everyone they know. If ya do right they tell a few friends.
Ken.

For all 5 of mine I use stove black(stove polish)on the bodys and a light oil on the faces/horns. I do not like
Patina(I call it rust) Mine look like new 100+yrold anvils/vices and whatever. Makes the old wood stove look like new also. Unlike paint it hides nothing. Brush it in wipe it off(karate Kid)
Ken.

If rough hands bother your lady you could learn from Curley in the book Of Mice and Men. He keeps one hand soft for his wife by keeping it in a glove full of Vaseline.

Alright guys. heres my 2 cents. Been chasing the arc for over 40 yrs. I have a 330a/b miller stick tig unit
a hobart 180 mig unit and a linc G7 portable. get over what ya need less than ya want. Youl be happy.

Just my 2 cents worth. I am NOT re doing thin rusty parts. If ya Don't wish to pay for new go somewhere else.
Who is going to bend over when this rusty repair fails? Looks like a in use item to me.
Ken.

Yeh. 1930 great anvil. I have a 174 lb trenton. Fits in well with the H-Bs
ken.