Dragons lair

Um, yes and no. The pressure is 32 psi, but the weight of the vehicle is 4000 pounds (light truck right?) Now if you measure your tire footprint and multiply by the pressure in the tire you get the weight of the vehicle. This is a middle school pressure assignment for science class, but not actually done at most schools.

Now working backwards 4000lbs divided by 4 tires = 1000 lb load per tire.
1000 pounds divided 32 psi makes 31.25 square inches of tire contact area.

Or as the middle school assignment goes, take 2 straight edges and a ruler and measure the surface contact of the tires on your parents car, then measure the tire pressure to each tire and record all the information. Now figure the contact area of each tire and multiply by the pressure in each tire and you get the weight of the vehicle!

Phil

A few things I will agree with and one or so I will disagree with in the above postings.

First, Hydraulic systems often trap siginifacant pressure, and a few drops will NOT release all the pressure. Look for an accumulator, they will store pressure. Second, I made my living working in a high pressure hydrostatic lab. I burst tested many of the items we work with. I have had hydrostatic failures in pipes that sounded like a dyamite explosion. Yes these were at 19,000 psi, but do illustrate. The bigger the volume, and the higher the pressure, the more elastic deformation in the steel and the more stored pressure. I have had larger items shoot out a jet of water and shoot across the test cell like a squid.

Hydraulic is safe since liquids are not compressable. WRONG! Liquids are compressable, the folks that wrote that law just did not have the instruments and equipment to measure it. Water IS compressable, and at pressure of say 10,000 psi you can see 1/2% per thousand PSI. Small amount of compression, HUGE amount of energy. Second a pin hole at 3000 psi will inject under the skin and cut like a razor. The clothes you are wearing as you sit there reading this were probably just cut by a waterjet at something like 5000 to 10,000 psi.

Next, I have seen a photo of a boiler that failed at a measly 25 psi. Flipped a 60,000# weight traction engine on its back.

I have seen far too many failure photos to share all, just please please consider the possible consequences of a shoddy repair.

And for reference, ASME code stamped pressure vessels for non-fired use, like compressed air are tested at the maker for 1.5 times the rated design working pressure. So if you read that name plate and see the ASME in a sheid, and the working pressure is 250PSI, it was tested to 375 psi at the factory. Usually the actual burst test pressure will be at least 6 times higher when new, to account for corrosin etc over the life of the device.
Ptree who worked for an ASME code shop making valves, fittings, boilers, and refrigeration equipment for 21 years, and designed the test equipment to do the hydros for most of that time.

Yes. Now multiply by each and every square inch for the total force. That's what the "per square inch" means.

Well here it is i couldnt get a picture for you but hopefully I can describe the details the pictures I took did not show anything anyways. So here it goes at the top of the anvil and towards the horn It says Peter, under that it says Wright, now under that its hard to make out but it appears to say England, then under that in a circle it says solid wrought, andunder that are the weight stamps which are 1 2 22 which from my understanding would be 190 lbs. Also on the foot under the horn is the number seven on the right side and number seven on the left side which seems to be the same size number stamp as the weight stamps. Well I hope all the info can tell you something. Thanks for the reply.

Come on guys, If it's rated at 2300 Degrees do ya realy think it's worldsend
At 2310 degees? D__m Son If your car goes over 55Mph are ya gonna explode?
lETS GET REAL HERE. If ya have a 1 burner forge that allways gets to welding heat
Let us know.A 2 BURNER REACHING WELDING TEMPS LET US KNOW. I/WE NEEd TO KNOW.
forgeing temp is good welding is great.
Ken.

No it woun't give him a hard face If he lost it. My H*b only had the horn snapped off . No losse of hard face. IF ya snap off either end It do not affect the HF. If that were the case ya could never repair a frame or assy. As said before I have had senior smiths not find which anvil has the horn replaced.

Most every anvil maker used something equivalent to 1080 or thereabouts for faceplates. Called a variety of terms but it was all plain, medium-high carbon steel.

All that I can say is to pay what YOU are comfortable with. For some folks a $100 for any anvil is a lot of money, yet for others it is no problem.

I have paid what I have because, for lack of a better term, I am a cheapskate.

I have known some people that want something, and want it now no matter the cost. Me on the other hand, I have no problem waiting until I get it at a price that I agree with.

If you can afford $2,$3,$4,$$$$$ a pound, pay it. The only thing that matters is if YOU are happy with the purchase.

Some of you would really be suprised what a 300lb idiot with a 8lb sledge can do.
had one show up at my welding/smithy shop. Broke off the horn and the heel on a 72lb H-B using said 8lb sledge. Wanted to know if I would weld um back on for $25. Told him I would fix it for $500 plus any heat treat. Glad he walked. Put a horn on my 88lb H-B nobody has found the weld yet. I will share the trick with ya all. for a horn drill and tap both pieces(my horn was a 3.5" rb)Screw toghter.
grind a groove to the 3/4" stud then weld. Would think 2 studs for a heel. Use may snap a weld but the stud(s) will hold.
Ken.

I was just wondering if anyone on here knows or can tell me what type of tool steel they used on peter wright anvils for the welded on plate and if there are some give aways as to the general date of production of said anvil. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

I am in Asheville N.C. & my tools are in storage in Ohio, normally I would weld steel but I don't have my tools so not being too experienced at soldering I was wondering before investing in a torch, solder etc... whether it would be possible to solder say a clean r.r. spike to say 24 gauge sheet steel to make say butterflies & dragonflies for ornaments (like yard art)I could ship my little lincoln 110 gassless down here but hate risking it getting damaged or lost anyhow thx for the input!

You can get used up moil points (jackhammer points) just about anywhere. Check out your local tool rental store if they rent jackhammers or talk to road/cement contractors in your area.

Most moil points are made of 1045 or similar and are great steel to make hardy tools or just about any blacksmith tool.

Bob

Not sure from your post wot this object is. But if you made the piece and heat treated it it should not be a real big deal to do it again. If you did not make it and did not heat treat it. You may be able to take a small propane torch and heat just enough to wire brush the surface and get the gunk off, ,,do not let the metal change colors and the heat treat will remain as is. I would do small areas at a time..Again if you fill in the blanks it would be easier to answer. Stay away from any fumes it gives off. a fan may help that.

OK I picked up a clean little 60lber at my flea market for $30. One of my mentors picked up a 50lber at the scrapyard(nice also) for $9. Should we advise
not paying more thay that. Point is that was then and here and just being in the right place at the right time with $ in your pocket. It's sorta like auctions.
Big city and or tourist spots bring your gold card. Find one where ya park in the pasture and go to the barn. Also watch out for those with buyers premiums
Seen them as high as 30% Ask Ask and Ask again. The flea market seller will bring
hammers and stuff and leave the 200lb anvil at home. Yard salers aren't going to drag it out either. I found my 6 within 50 miles.
Ken.

Like said, I was just remembering what Dad told me. I'm older than he was when he told me , but that makes sense now that you mention it, Ken. But the fuel is being heated before the engine runs if "there is no fuel being pumped while the plugs are heating." I do know that without the fuel being warmed it won't ignite easily without compression or atomization. This is why the fuel in a jet engine burning JP5 (basically high grade fuel oil with a higher flash point than JP4) has to be heated before it is introduced to the already compressed air in the combustion stage and subsequent turbine. (Not a diesel mech but I was a jet mech)
I wasn't aware of the atomization of the thinner fuel oil in a (commercially made ?) furnace but I was mainly referring to a waste oil burner in a home made forge. Waste oil would be much thicker than fuel oil and difficult to atomize by the backyard forge builder. We're still talking forges right? Sorry for going too OT.
Scott

Figure out the sq inches then multiply bt 120? 120psi is 120lbs per sq inch last time I checked. Now I do agree partly about repairing rusty tanks. However have seen more than a few and plated a few. Usually happens on a Sat or Sun. Got a pinhole weld on a 6inch patch. If it don't burn thru ya finish the job. Look for a tank on Mon.(or wait for the next time) The only tank I ever saw go thru a wall was a full 180 o2 bottle 2600psi fell over and snapped the neck off. But thats 2600psi thru a 1inch hole.
Ken.

Wesley FOR shame!!!! It was a Scott brand anvil, sold for farrier's!!! :D

I'm not a diesel mechanic but my father was and this is the way I remember him explaining it: It doesn't have to be compressed to burn. It has to be heated closer to its flash point (gasoline has a very low flash point). Diesel's is higher than a spark plug and the compression of a normal gas engine can ignite. Therefore, a diesel runs at much higher compression and uses a glow plug instead of a spark plug. Diesel will burn out side the engine when it gets hot enough. Just like oil, it has to be preheated. That's what the glow plug inside a diesel engine does. It preheats the fuel so the compression will start the burn easier. Once the engine is running, the glow plug generally shuts off as it is no longer needed.
For a burner to run on diesel, it would need to be preheated just like a waste oil burner.

Dang sorta looks like the one that got away from my shop. Can ya please bring it back. If it's not the same one
I will give a good home. Shoot on closer look mine was purple with flames. Any body seen it?
Ken.

I like it.
Before I went in I had a nice long thick goatee that I was very proud of. Now a days if I am on leave I will let it grow out just a bit. It doesn't get very long before the large amount of grey in my chin whiskers depresses me enough to shave it off again.

doesn't diesel have to be compressed to burn?

OK this thread was true price of anvils. True price is what you are willing to pay. Seen a lot of old timers (I are one) saying $1.00 a lb. Get a life.
What ya paid 40+yrs ago is irevelant. How much was a new car 40 yrs ago? I remember in the 60s thinking I want a corvette or T-bird. Guess I'll wait a few yrs till the price goes down. Anybody got a 53 vet or a 55 t bird cheap?
Now 15-20 yrs ago smithing was a dieing trade. Tools were cheap. Not any more.
just look at primo old power hammers. Once scrap prices now 4 times what they sold new. Botton line ya gotta pay to play or do without.
Ken.

I'm always somewhat perplexed why there is an all consuming desire to set to improving and old too to near new condition if what you wanted was a new tool why not buy one? Easily confused by this phenomena.
http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/two_horn_classic.html

]Dave, when ya drill holed for the blocks. Add an extra hole. Make up 3 giant rebar nails. makes a good gravel/dirt anchor.
Ken

my phone was 9$, it costs me 20$ a month. it makes phone calls.