Dragons lair

Certifications? Who said that? Gripes? Post #1 had no mention of size or materials. No mention of type of equipment No pics. Just how to.
So before I go sit in the corner one question. The fuel light is on in my work truck. What type fuel should I get and how much to fill it up? LOL
Ken.

I have a lead on peter wright in good condition(says the seller) He's asking 250$ dollars for it. Weight according to my calculations should be around 170#. go for it?

As everyone told Ralphie, you'll shoot your eye out. But seriously, I don't think it's a good idea.

How come nobody says take a welding course or offering to teach how to do it? How many posters are welders?
Here is my questions Is your airplane going to stay up. your submarine stay down.your nuke stay cool. Ask your self
can I weld unde a 40X microscope or a 4,000 lb turbine. if not please say so

Moony, its everywhere, My welding/smithy has been closed for most of 1 1/2 yrs. Lucked out with my last big client.
Offered a saleried position with him and get to do my thing either there or here. Works if ya have enough gear to equip both places. Might wish to find a nice cave inna outback just in case.
Ken.

Strange thing is the 1 standing proud. My H-Bs have inspectors # stamped in not cast.
Ken.

Anyone else read the discription? "Is used to convert preformed H came for bullseye windows". It is not a came maker.
Ken.

This is just a guess, but I'd say they're made from some kind of steel.

Sometimes when stuff is free, you get what you pay for. Sometimes you get a better deal than that. If you got a BUNCH of it, you can experiment with heat treatment and still have enough to make tools out of.

Just my 2 cents worth. Man said Henry Wright (old english). pic showes 141= 225lbs but not possiable under british system. I would have to pass on it.
Ken.

I agree that it is probably a Trenton.

The year of manufacture would be 1917 according to AIA.

It looks British and it looks old. I agree that the table hole came later, but for what reason?

http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools

Vise would be far from stout. It is hollow cast iron. Do not beat on it hard it will break. Same for the anvil(not
hollow) but looks to be cast. I stuck with hammers smaller than 2 1/2lbs when I had the 100lb Vulcan. When passed on it had no dents,dings and clean edges.
Ken.

I would say to go with the Brent Bailey, he does such clean work. Look at the eyes on some of the other hammers they fill them with goo (not what I look for in a hammer) I want a handle that fits

Thanks for the input all. If I can't get a Hofi I will go with BB.

The goo is a type glue. Here's a post from Hofi from a different thread about wheather to wedge or not:

The glue that I am useing to hendle the hammer is SIKAFLES 11 FC AND I ONLY glue THE HANDLES AND NEVER WEDGE.
I glued already hundreds of hammers in many sizes ans none of them went loos.
the hammer eye is having a duble taperd cone (x) to the middle of the eye 3 degrees.
on the handle on the part that goes into the eye I grind surretions all around that hold the glue much better.
beffor smearing the glue in the eye I clean the eye with thinner to take away any oily remanents for better glueing
Hofi

Alright, My welding shop/smithy is rough sawn siding with paneling inside. Spray foam(fire retardent) inside. Metal roof. Weld and run a gasser inside. (with gas and carbon monixcide Detectors) inside. Yehh they went off today.
Too much OA/ACT brazing. OPEN THE DOORS AND VENT. It's a bitch to open the doors when it's in the 40s outside
and 70s inside. But it's better than being DAID.
Ken.

Here is the quiz. Can ya take 2 12 inch pieces of 1/2 X 4 HRS and forge weld it into a 24 1/4 piece of 1/2X4?
How long to cut out 10,000 inches of 1/4" letters with a chisel? A power hammer can and does 200 BPM with a 50lb hammer. Can you? Do any one here really belive if offered to an 1800s smith any of the modern tools they would refuse? I see it every day " coal forges add carbon to RR spikes gas forges do not" and "RR spikes make the best knives as they are high carbon". Why do we hunt with a 300 win mag insted of a .32 or .45 cal front loader?
Use what ya got and are good with. An acre with a sythe or a diesel tractor upto to ya all. I hammer when I can
and modern when its best.
Ken.

Not quite true, Jake. It's absolutely true that there's tremendous variety in the composition and properties of WI; it took me several years (and playing with WI, some of which I eventually realized would get quite hard in water, even though I had read that WI was "nearly pure iron" -- what a bunch of BS) to figure this out. But there is such a thing as wrought iron -- a material that's distinguishable from steel in due to the presence of significant amounts of silica slag stringers throughout the iron (an artifact of the manufacturing process), which give it some interesting properties. (And if it's made by traditional charcoal processes it'll normally have little or none of the sulfur and manganese that are found in modern steels. Sulfur comes from coal based smelting processes, and manganese is added to neutralize the sulfur.)

One big issue is if the power co comes out. They look at total draw. Are ya gonna be welding at max while machining at max and running heat and cooling at max. Try to tell them ya can't run several things at the same time. When was the last time ya popped the main breaker?
Ken.

You know what hasn't been mentioned yet?

Drill the edges and bolt them together, possibly using angle iron or bent flat straps to take up the edges. Avoid the whole welding argument entirely.

Phil

Not sure how we got on forklifts but my favorite was a V80 cat diesel with dual air tires.
Qualification was take a 20ft bundle of steel thru a 12 ft door and a 8 million dollar motion ride(20Ft and 12+ thousand lbs) out the 12 ft door across a gravel lot thru a 10Foot chain link gate across a crowned road. Be able to wizz across the shop and crack a hardboiled egg with the fork. now in my shop its a skid steer with forks. Thru the door square turn and set it on the bench, Damm I miss that big cat.
Ken.

Gouge would be removing metal. A chisel cut or punch dimple is an upset mark. And as stated "Wow he cut that huge anvil my tool must really be sharp"
Ken.

Your Peter Wright anvil is PRE-1910. In 1910 the British Govt. required exports to be marked with "ENGLAND" stamped into the anvil on the same side as the name.

Hello all,

I am new to the site and a newbie at blacksmith work. So my brother helped out getting a nice old buffalo forge and some miscellaneous hammers, and a pretty nice Hay Budden anvil. I would love to know a little more about it if anyone can help me out. I have been perusing the othe anvil posts, and would like to clean it up a little, and put it to work. I have read on here to wirewheel it and put some Johnsons paste wax on it. Is that the best way to go?

Anvil Serial number is:65530 it could be 65332 or 65330. Couple of the numbers are hard to read. There is also a number 8 stamped sideways under the horn. The weight markings (I assume they are weight markings) are 1 7 0. It seems like that should be 170 pounds, there is no way they can be the same as the English markins, that would make it almost 300 pounds.

After reading on here I am pretty excited about this anvil. Might need to get it a new stump though.

Thanks all, hopefully I will be posting up some forged projects soon.

well keep in mind anvil addiction and anvilosis/anvilitis are seperate things.

the second and third are diseases thought to be contracted similarly to blacklung, the coal miners disease caught from breathing too much coal dust. these diseases are thought to be caught from a time spent around a vast number of different blacksmithing tools.

unfortunatly like cocaine, blacksmithing addiction can be contracted(is that the right word?)with only one dose. in fact most cases of anvil addiction(or blacksmithing addiction) happen after only one time, the victims claim "I'll try it just this once, I will not become an addict." most do become addicts after the first try.

...Hello my name is Tim, I am an addict.....I know I am and I don't care. I will learn to cope and no 12 step programs will help me. I won't let it!!! Like my insanity I don't suffer from it, I enjoy every minute.

For a forklift look on Craigslist. Here in the Las Vegas area I saw an LP 5K Yale go for Free-lasted 20 minutes. It ran but was missing a tooth off the flywheel , so you needed to rotate a little by hand every once in awhile.

I picked up a 5K Toyota low mast diesel for $800. Max lift is 79", and will easily fit in a standard house garage. I also bought an 8K Champ rough terrain lift with a 25'-30' reach for $3,500.

There are multiple lifts that I have seen in the $2,000, or less range.

I would stay away from electric, and look at LP, or gas. Between the chargers, the cost of batteries, and required maintenance I wouldn't get one.

I like diesel due the fuel not going bad no matter how long it sits. I have never had a problem with water, but others may depending on where you live. Here in the desert fuel can go bad very quickly. The Toyota I bought had sat outside for 2 years-fired right up with the fuel that was in the tank. The Champ has a Ford 300 6, so I just put enough gas in it to do what I need to do, and try not to leave too much in the tank when I am done.

Propane/LP-clean, and can be used indoors. Cons, dealing with tanks, can freeze up the carb in cold climates, and if you run out in the middle of the night, you may not be able to get the tank filled till morning. My 7K TowMotor is a Continental flathead 4 converted to LP.

Tires- hard tires = pavement/concrete. Watch asphalt when it is really hot, as they will sink in.

cushion=pavement, hard packed dirt/gravel. If it doesn't have a valve stem it is a cushion tire. I see a lot of them misidentified on the listings as pneumatic.

Pneumatic=all terrain