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There is an auction this Sat. June 7 that I am going to. Looks like a nice anvil but I don"t recognize the maker. I know someone here can help me. Anvil can be see on xxxxxxxxxx.com. North Carolina,Union Grove. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Randy Link removed as it set off a virus alert.

Thanks Thomas. I'm going to do that today. Randy.

Thanks John B. Did one today and it worked out pretty good. I used a 3/8" square split, flattened a little and spread on the end for the handle. Drilled 1/4" hole on each prong. Used a 16d nail as the rivet. 1 1/2 x diameter plus material being brought together, which worked out to a little over 1/2" length on nail. I had trouble keeping the same amount of nail sticking out on each side. I drilled a hole in a piece of flat stock so putting the bottom of the nail in this hole I had the right amount on top and bottom. May have been a better way of doing it, but it worked good. Peined both sides over to flat it looked good and held tight. Feels good when something works. Thanks for the help. Randy.

Yes rivets, my mistake.

I am going to make a few Ladles.(First ones) I have read all I can find on making brads. Question is do I have to heat the nail first? Any tips would also be helpful. Thanks Randy.

Thanks I'm going to give it a shot tomorrow. Randy

Sean St. I love your guitar. Any tips on how you got the working end so perfect. I would like to know how you got the hole oblong and what did you start with? Just starting out and any help would be appreciated if that's O.K. Thanks Randy

Anyone have a trick for getting the letter to line up when you stamp them. It is frustrating to make something, get it looking pretty good only to stamp crooked letters on it. Thanks Randy.

I am totally new to smithing, so this is a stupid question. Why do you need a spacer? Only guess I can make ( and it's a guess) is it is to not put as much stress on one end of your vice. Thanks Randy

Adding to what John B said, I did this on one face of the hammer and on the other I took my stick welder and just sort of splatter welded some weld on it. Vein it with one side and make small indentations with the other. Works really good. Thanks Randy.

We tried a 55 gal. drum with a roaring fire last weekend. Did not get hot enough to harden the tiles. Thanks Randy.

My wife is getting into making small pottery tiles and has no kiln. I told her we could put them in my coal forge and try that. She says they only need to fire at 1700 and a coal forge gets 3500. Anyone have any suggestions on how we can try this? Thanks Randy.

David I totally agree with you. I just hate to buy the extra 10' of pipe only to cut 8' off. I'm going up today and am going to stop at scrap yard to see what they have.Right now I am leaning toward the 10' section which will extend 2' above ridgeline. No firm decision yet. Thanks Randy.

I don't think wind will be a problem I will brace it real well. Also have not had any luck finding used that is in very good shape. Hadn't thought about adding to it. Don't think it is something I would want to do.

I am in the process of building a small blacksmith shop and have a important question. I have built a side draft flu out of 3/16 steel 5' long coming out of the back wall. My flu pipe go up outside up to the ridgeline. 12" galvinized culvert pipe is what I want to use, for reasons of longevity and durability. Now I need a few opinions. I am 8' from side draft to peak of roof.I have read a lot of recomendations to get it 4' above roofline. Problem is pipe is $8.34 per foot and comes in only 10 and 20 ft. sections. A 10' section will get me 2' above ridgeline. I don't want to buy 10' to find out it doesn't draw well and I don't want to pay the extra cost and cut 4' off. Whaddya think? 10' work? Thanks Randy.

Thanks for the tips, I heated it and it blended in pretty good. I worked on the other end this weekend, was just going to do some small leaves and vines. I wound up with a small pile of scrap. I will learn from my mistakes, but it is so frustrating. I will watch some Youtube and try it again this weekend. Randy.

Thanks for the help. I have a small propane torch. I still have to do some leafs and vines on the other end. (First time for that also) Any hints on doing small smooth vines or tendrals out of 1/4 round. Will post pics. when finished. Thanks Randy

I posted last week about texturing. I made a small tree to go in a rail in my cabin. Everything worked out great. I welded tthe limbs on with my stick welder, took my time with angle grinder and dremel and fixed the welds. I am wanting to just Beeswax when done. Problem is the welds are shiny and the tree is black. Before I mess something up, how do I get the shiny to match the black. Thanks Randy.

Mash thats a very nice job. Did you do the oak leaves? Looks good. This is what I have come up with. I had an old 2 lb. hammer, I cut grooves on one side and rounded the sharp corners. On the other side I used my welder to splatter weld sme rough weld onto it. I am thinking I will do as Backwoods Blacksmith did and rough it up with a ball pein. Then use the grooved part of the hammer, then rough it up with the splatter side, then do a little twist to blend it all together.Does this sound like the right steps to everyone? Don't know if I can split the 3/8 and taper down for the smaller limbs or just weld them on./ Maybe both? Thanks Randy.

Thanks for the replys. I do not have a power hammer but I do have a stick welder. I will experiment with the ball pein hammer idea and do some more looking on how to make one with a welder. I am just doing bark, nothing dramatic I just want a little texture. Thanks Randy.

Hi everyone I am just getting started in blacksmithing, probably a little late in life but I really enjoy it as well as reading this forum. I am going to make a set of small rails to go in the attic of my cordwood cabin from 1/2" 3/8" and 1/4" round. Majority will be the 3/8". I am going to be by Khayne and Sons Sat. and thought I would buy a texturing tool. Any comments, suggestions, or tips would be greatly appreciated.Thanks Randy.

Thanks for the info. about my forge. I cut a round plate and drilled holes in it and lined it with a couple of inches of portland and sand. Worked great. Actually did my first blacksmithing this weekend. I made a meat turner I saw someone make on Youtube. I think it turned out pretty good for my first thing. Also learned a few things just by doing it. #1 when hammering, don't miss the rod and hit the anvil 'it's got a pretty good rebound to it.GRIN! I only got to play a little while, the belt came apart.The guy I bought it off of put a new belt on it and just wired it together. I took it to work and laced it like it is supposed to be. I am totally stoked about smithing,be whatever I make ever so simple and can't wait till the weekend to do it again. Thanks Randy.

Thanks for the replys. Curly George, if I do the 3/8" rod I am thinking of taking a short piece of pipe slightly smaller than my hole.welding a flange on top amd welding rod onto flange. Whaddayathink? Old n rusty I have portland and sand but not refractory(I think thats the right word) That be OK?

Let me start by saying what a great learning experience this site is. I am just getting started smithing. Always been interested, just never done it. I just bought my first coal forge and have a question or two. It is what I beleive is called a rivet forge. It is in really good shape with a handle you pump, not sure what that is called. It is not lined with anything. I have fire clay I thought I would line the bottom with a couple of inches of clay. OK? Do i need to try to put some on the sides also? It is 18 inches across with a 2.5 inch teuere where the air comes in and also ashe drop. Is this OK or should I block off the hole with a thick steel plate with holes drilled in it, or is it supposed to be open like it is? I will post some pics. when I get my wife to help me do it. Any answers and hints greatly appreciated. Thanks Randy.

Hi all. this is my first post after reading every thing I could on this site the last couple of weeks. Love it. I bought my first anvil today, need some help with date. Hay Budden #128_23 or 138_23.Can"t hardly read it. Weighs about 130#. Any help? Thanks Randy.