westernironworks

i know how everyone seems to use a standard compression coil spring but why not use leaf springs,i think it might be easier to make also. to answer your question i dont know exactly what spring you will need sorry.

so i am gonna be casting with a refractory cement for the top and bottom of my forge then the blanket around the walls. I should then coat this with a coating product like plistix? if so where could i get it from,its alittle over 2 square feet on the inside of my forge so however much would be necessary.

awesome use for scraps man.

yeah i am not doin anything new(now) just gonna go with a basic set of 3 burners with forced air thats gonna eventually have a heated pipe for more effiency. right now the forced air is gonna be run by my massive industrial air compressor but gonna get an electric blower when i can find one cheap enough.

To get it working fast i am not gonna run the air pipe around the exhaust at first but i am gonna make my exhaust hole round so it will be easy to match the pipe up to it later. I am hopin to have some pics up of this monster by the end of the week. i can never just go with something simple and small to start with hehe.

yeah i totally wasnt thinking that it would steel heat from the forge by putting it inside,i was just thinking it would heat up really good hehe. i bet as i was building it i would have realized but putting the line around the exhaust will do the job.

i have seen lots of forges and was trying to do burners like the ones i liked especially for fuel effiency. at the start i will be running the air from my air compressor until i get a fan i wanna use thats cheap enough.

well for the compressor i figured it wouldnt use alot of the air so the compressor would be turning on an off periodically but i suppose i could just get an electric fan for the forced air. I didnt think that the air line running through the forge would sap a ton of heat from it and keep it from reaching a very hot temp. i guess i will be running it around the exhaust then which is gonna be out the top of the forge. this is the exact reason why i posted here before i have gotten too far in the construction to change anything.

I am building my forge and i plan on making burning that have forced air from my air compressor. i was planning on running the air line piping through the inside of the forge but since it would melt i need to shield it some. i was planning on pouring refractory cement in the bottom and when i do i would run the piping through it so it would get shielded from the full heat of the forge. I will use 316 stainless steel pipe and how deep in the cement should i put it. i was thinking of having at least 1/8th inch of cement over the pipe or should it be more. i want it to get super hot but not to hot to soften the pipe so much it would burst from the low air pressure i would be running through it.

you can build a kinyon type powered hammer for under $200 but you need a welder to assemble and you would also need an air compressor to run it.

would the one in my link be a good thermometer for my forge for heat treating? http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-Type-Digital-Thermometer-thermodetector-TM-902C-Thermocouple-Probe-/180852232557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1ba2116d

the shoulders on that armor would be attached to the shoulder strap that is from the breastplate to the backplate. i make armor for a living and i will gladly share my experience. for blackening I use a gun blueing kit that you can get from any place that sells guns for less then $10.

yeah i ordered a new 1/2" valve and a mechanical switch today so I will be ordering another 14inch stroke piston to make a basic kinyon type hammer for sale since i have all the parts but the piston itself.

fixed

Ok i have removed almost all the slop and it still stutter at the switching point. i am thinking it might be because i have a magnetic switch which works too fast,thinkin about buying a new valve and a mechanical switch. http://www.facebook....=timelineSingle

yeah i am gonna get video up tonight of my hammer working,god i hope so.

ok i figured out my problem,i have too much slop in the spring so as the hammer starts traveling up it wil reverse down but with no resistance it reverses again back upwards and since the hammer is still moving up then it goes beyond the sensor range and cant switch again to go down. I am gonna modify the spring attachment to just like a leaf spring is attached to a car,solid on one side and then on a pivot for forward and backward movement. wow so simple and i didnt figure it out.

ok thanks for the responses i am gonna try some stuff today and if it works i will say what happened but if its still not working at max ability then i will post pics and a list of what i have.

I have been building a kinyon type powered hammer and think i got it almost all done but when i turn hit the foot pedal and it starts goin it will quickly go up too high and lock out at max height. if i resist the exhaust on the top piston i can get it to not do this but then it runs slow. just with this info can anyone help? it seems like it goes past the point of the switch to fast and it doesnt switch it over to bring the hammer down. (this isnt a direct drive hammer,it has the leaf spring that is used to lift the hammer,could the flex in the leaf spring be causing the switch to quick switch and skip the downward cycle) I can provide more info tomarrow after more testing.

I had the hammer running with a tire drive system before this so i know the hammer guide is fine,not the ideal guide i would like but its my first hammer. ok it looks like i am gonna just have to order that 1/2" valve which i was hoping i wasnt gonna have to do since i already wasted alot of money but hey live and learn.

well my air piston has 1/4inch inputs but even with that i should go alot bigger like a half inch vavle and hoses to make it go faster?

I have build a powered hammer,at first it was a mechanical wheel drive then i decided to change to an air piston drive but i dont think i got it right,there is something definately wrong. I have plenty of air pressure but it still will only run slow. I have a 1/4inch 5port 2 position valve with a reed switch. i can get it to work slow but its so slow it isnt really useful. the hammer weight including the head is about 90lbs. I am wondering if i have the plumbing wrong or if i have the wrong valve.(do i need a 3/8ths inch valve or did i just get the wrong type.)