Steve Sells

maybe the name Sterno rings a bell? is the problem a language issue here? Not speaking in complete sentences, or even real words some times, makes it very hard to understand.

The problem solving is under the section of blacksmithing. This is the section for general and non smithing nonsense. I am sorry if that is a difficult concept for you.

looks good spike, good thing ya got your hammer working, and good thing they didnt ask for leaves of H13, if you thought 304 moves hard LOL

So this post has nothing to do with blacksmithing? This will now be relocated. Why even make a post like that at this forum?

I agree with you. I see nothing in error about your statement, and I feel it was very well stated. Many RR blades posted in this site are very poor, but as staff here I try to help show people HOW to make good blades. I have given up my Friday nights to oversee the Live knife chat for over a year now. I make an attempt to teach. Some are trying to help by encouraging others, some fear to make them stop trying if they get less than approving statements, we all can to better, and Hopefully as a group we can help each other to learn and grow into world class smiths.

Until then I agree Honest opinions with a pointer to the solution is better than happy comments about everything, with no real feed back. The problem is the flaming that comes with a honest statement that may upset others. its a hard balancing act. So many times I am guilty of choosing to not post about a less than ideal project, than risk getting my foot into my mouth again.

Glad you are here, I hope that maybe you can teach me to help others with out sounding like I am slamming their efforts. I have very little tact, and many of my statements come out sounding wrong, even when I do mean well.

yup, that averages out to about 60pts of carbon. try lawn mower blades, or pallet straps for starting.

Most new blade steels average out to be $3.50 a pound, not too bad for a blade you can sell for a lot more.

Why the shock? these same steels cost almost 2x as much online, look at Admiral, or K&G. whats sad is paying $100 for steel, and being able to carry the entire purchase into the shop in one hand.:(

I love the genuine NHL handle too :D

Since locating the menu on the HOME page of this web site is a problem for you, here it is Lessons | articles

Just trying to be helpful to those unable to help themselves.

the strangest thing is that this post started as a comment on a post of Frosty's in the safety section of the forum, in a Sticky! I cant imagine why anyone thinks a post like this is that much of a safety issue either.

a few air quench steels meet those criteria. What is " ... i know its high in carbon because it puts out a horrible amount of carbon..." what does carbon look like when its put out?

Mike, didn't you read the reply to this question the first time you asked? on the first page of this thread?:confused:

In the modern world, having a business is more than just knowing how to swing a hammer. Grammar, diction, blue print reading and drawing, attention to details, and math skills are just as important.

ive got an anvil already and i know hammer control very well

look like a good deal. If you want to try to splint the broken leg you can, but I doubt it will heal. But not a major issue as few anvils need to run marathons. I think you made a good purchase.

actually New Guy Winter is coming up for him. :)

there is a sticky for how to choose steels, to make this part of the job simpler. It seemed good to post for helping new blade makers get started, but no one wants to read these days, I think they are waiting for the movie...

true but I assume when posting in the knife section they mean blades, Else We relocate them to the appropriate area of the forum.

Mirror finishes are nice, but a little more work to maintain in a usable blade than satin. But as Rich stated, they a so much easier to keep from rusting, and there are less places for rust to get a start.

rest in peace Thomas... Err I meant Happy Birthday, not that there is much difference at that advanced age. :D

I buy from Crucible Service Centers for L-6, But be aware they only make it in rounds, where as Tinkin (Carpenter) makes flats as thin as 3/8 they are slightly different mixes, Both work well I am told, but have only used Crucible.

I wonder how aluminum paint would interact with rust-dust in a shop environment.

Hopefully better minds than mine could enlighten me.

[steve sells] What you guys been doing lately, any blade work? happy results? problems ?
[brucegodlesky] etching cable, lotsa cusswords
[jeremy k] no blade work but I built a mini hydraulic press that would work good for knife makers and less that $130.00 to build if you have steel laying around
[steve sells] : I have 2 slabs of rough cut fiddle back walnut drying under the Exhaust fan
[markb] I've got one ready to quench and treat but afaid to screw it up
[steve sells]why do you think you wil screw it up ?
[markb] I haven't done it before
[steve sells] wanna cover heat treat again ?
[markb] Well i did one and got a soft tip
[steve sells] I already wrote stickys YOU guys help Markb out,.... this chat should be a group effort.
[markb] I've spent so much time a t file and sand
[jeremy k] what steels is it?
[markb] 1084
[steve sells] 1 good start
[markb]obsessing on imperfections
[jeremy k] is that a water or oil quench steel?
[markb] oil
[jeremy k]what color is a temper color for knives - like hammers - straw?
[steve sells] that good for most. 325F to 350 is plenty for a small blade that temp barely shows color
[markb] Do you think triple quench is necessary
[steve sells] water for 1050 or lower is ok
[steve sells] I always double temper,
[markb] room temp between?
[steve sells] over night in freezer between, just top help retained austinite brealk into martensite
[steve sells] room is fine Mark and I are far enough north to let it cool
[markb] Thanks simple first
[steve sells] people like Rich Hale dont need a H/T oven they just wave the bvlade out the window and it heats up
[markb] Too hot down there
[steve sells] yup no snow either over there, weird place to live
[jeremy k] I think Rich has been having his cryo treated
[steve sells] yes but he is using high tech Stainless also
[steve sells] I low tech cryro 5160
[jeremy k] Steve is the oven the safest bet on tempering for consistency?
[steve sells] steel tube, cruched dry ice packed around the blade in the pipe, cover in acitone I get -170
[steve sells] I use wife kitchen oven for blades up to 26 inches with tang
[jeremy k] 2-3 hrs?
[steve sells] 1 to 2, I turn on oven to get to temp before hardening
[jeremy k] are the temp knobs fairly accurate?
[steve sells] after the oil quench, I wipe it off ( mainly to keep wife from killing me) and place in over before it can cool below the 400F
[steve sells] Dont trust them I use candy thermometer
[jeremy k] ahh
[steve sells] after 1 hour, I let cool in over, then place in House freezer over night then 1 more hour the next night, the retained Austine will convert to untempered martensite over time,. the cooling speeds this time up
[jeremy k] correct me - could you heat up till oil burns off a few times - is that a close temp - burning oil?
[steve sells] its not real cryo, true cryo needs a lot colder than this lol
[steve sells] oil for tempering ? I use oil at 450F for Austempering large blades so lower for normal tempering is safe
[jeremy k] ?? can't remember were I heard something about burning the oil off
[steve sells] IF you know what temp the oil burns, that can be a temp indiactor
[steve sells]if oils, and mixes, have dif flash points
[jeremy k] 1rue they do
[steve sells] mine burns at a little over 500F, I found out hard way
[jeremy k] that doesn't sound good
[steve sells] about the tempering Some people say it must come to room temp before tempering. thats only when they temper once, to help get some retained austenite to convert nefore temper, BUT I have had blades crack from getting too cold and not tempering soon enough so I temper first, at low temp 350 or so, to relax stress from the quench and temper some of the steel. after the freezer I temper again at desired temp for the target Hardness. normally 375 to 400 for hand knives, this also tempers the martensite that formed during my cold rest period by tempering right after the quench I have not had a broken blade like I used to get by waiting till it cooled a bit first
[jeremy k] I know a few that have broken blades by not tempering them soon enough - before dropping them
[steve sells] dropping un tempered steel >? OUCH I made 3 nice boots knives, from what should have been a left hand blade for a fencer
[jeremy k] no me - someone I know - I probably would though if I made one
[steve sells] it was a 15 inch blade, after getting bumped (by me) becauwe 3 boot knives,and some small pieces I was able to salvage something from it
[jeremy k] inside every knife is a smaller one crying to get out
[steve sells] lol if ya hear it cry during quench>? forget it lol
[jeremy k] high pitched cry?
[steve sells] pm: like a off key song the ends in a higher pitch crack, There are many way to temper some use a hot plate, some heat a bar of steel.. I am talking simple tempering small blades don't usually need differential tempering
[m_brothers] with differential tempering, how soft do you really want the spine to be?
[steve sells] if ya even done oil quench steel in water, you have heard this sound
[m_brothers] I've heard of people putting the edge of their knives in water, and using a blow torch to heat the spine to a dull red, is that to soft? like mushrooming from use over the years?
[m_brothers] i've heard and witnessed it steve
[steve sells] why heat spine to red ? most I have done is purple spine for a sword, cutting edge in water to keep cool
[m_brothers] it's super soft then, but i was just wondering why you would do that instead of drawing like a blue or purple for a spine
[steve sells] to red you are basically converting the back to austenite, I get asked to cover advanced things, but too many complain at mid level topics being over their heads..
[steve sells] actually this is basic heat treating anyone SHOULD know to make blades not advanced at all I have tried to build up and post notes for later reference to help people follow
[jeremy k] I don't do enough heat treating so it's always good to hear again fro me
[steve sells] MARK,, one reason your tip may be soft after H/T if you over heat is causes other problems. heat from the spine, and hear the tip/edges last to keep from over heating
[markb] why?
[steve sells] the heat will travel from back to the edge anyway, and the thinner edge heats faster than thick spine. over heating causes large grain growth, and to hot before quench also casues plate rather than lathe forms of martensite
[markb] I put that one in the forge , mistake
[steve sells] lathe is much more brittle too,

wait on a previous post frosty, you said that everything we smiths use is either hot heavy sharp or dangerous. i disagree on only have a 110lb anvil set up and a 3 and 4lb hammer, plus a vise grip saftey glasses an apron and welding gloves. none of the above is all that heavy. you know just a thought.

Admital does not, and NEVER has carried any L-6.

What they do sell is a 8670M with only half the alloy amounts of L6. They do list on the front page, but due to legal action have finally had to published that they only sell the 8670M in the price listing.

I found out the hard way when they surprised me a few years ago when I first ordered the L-6 but that was not what they sent me it was clearly labeled 9670m, its a nice steel but not what ordered and paid for. Be careful ordering from them.

I just aquired some peices of 01 steel. aI have not ever made any knives from 01 I think it is quality steel. It is precison ground and the peices vary anywere fro 1/8 by 1 in to 5/16 by 2 1/2 wide all are 18 in long there are12 peices in all. was wondering what the value of tem wood be? leroyk