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I Forge Iron

Scary Mc

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Grand Junction, CO
  • Interests
    sticking metal together, fly fishing, mountain biking, rafting and reading.

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  1. Shouldn't be a problem. You'll have to do at least two passes so just be sure to clean the slag off between them. Edit: I missed the stainless part.... Be sure to use stainless wire!
  2. Perfect! Thanks so much for the help, Thomas.
  3. I'm starting this thread here as I think it might get a few more hits than in the forge section. Feel free to move it if I've done a bad, bad thing. :mellow: I've had my old Mankel Farrier for a few weeks now and have gone through about 15-gallons of propane banging away on metal, mild steel, stainless, and copper. I'm wondering of I am adjusting my forge to get the most heat out of it, or if I could adjust things a bit better. I've searched the web and have tried to search this forum to no avail and am wondering if there is a good thread, ect. that might explain how to best adjust the forge. What color should the dragon's breath be, how much should I open the propane valve on the forge, blower aperature, ect. Ideas, threads, insults? Thanks for your time, Gary
  4. Lacking a swage block or vise, wouldn't it be ok to use my anvil's hardy hole to forge this?
  5. Brilliant, I'm going to try this on Friday!
  6. The Harry Potter reference killed Raven's Claw for me. ; )
  7. I can't say thank you enough times to y'all for all of the great ideas and advice I have gotten via this thread. I've been forging over the last few days and have a made few small pieces that I've had floating around my head for the last few months. It's so nice to see them to fruition. We have a weekly farmers/craft market on Main St., a few blocks from my shop/house and I'm going to bust my rear to get a decent sized and varied collection together for that. We'll see how it goes... I need more basic tools (punches, chisels, tongs, ect) but am making do with what I've got for now. Thanks again, Gary
  8. I picked up some scrap 2" 1045 round bar yesterday and am going to attempt a hammer this next week. My question is whether or not it is ok to set the steel directly on the of the soft brick on my Mankel or do I need to find a way to suspend it above the soft brick? Many Thanks- Gary
  9. Did you preheat the anvil to about 300 degrees F before you laid down the 7018? How has it held up?
  10. You might consider a machine shop. I wish I knew what to tell you otherwise
  11. After a 15-year career in conservation work I went back to school last year and will be graduating this May with a degree in welding (SMAW, GTAW, GMAW/FCAW) and small business. I've got a good start on a reasonable business plan (my final project for business class) and am trying to decide on a name for said business. XXXXX I even have an empty shop that happens to be a 100yr old barn. The options listed are personal in nature, I have always had a thing for ravens and have a raven sleeve tattoo on my left arm. The next is my dog, Pecos, he goes everywhere with me and is, of course, a spotted dog. Thanks for your thoughts and consideration. -Gary Mc
  12. I got i cleaned up enough that I think I can read 0-3-9 as the weight code. What does that work out to be in pounds? EDIT: I have that figured @ 93lbs, if I didn't jack it up....
  13. Pic, so it did happen! ; ) Testing it out before I laid out the cash.
  14. Picked up a two burner Mankel farrier ( ? ) for $ 180. It puts a steel shoe to weldi g temp in about 6-minutes with my untrained tuning. Did I get a good deal or did I get hosed? I'll post a pic when I get home...
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