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I Forge Iron

jeep4x4greg

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Everything posted by jeep4x4greg

  1. mine (no pic) is the other half of my forge (in progress still). the forge was made from an old verticle propane tank....i used half the tank for the forge, the other for a tank
  2. It doesnt need to be good just label it as "rustic" or "old fashioned" ;)
  3. does it come with all those attachements shown on the websites video?? thats pretty sweet!
  4. thats actually part of my plan....the back side of that tank has a threaded hole where the gas tanks valve used to be.....I'm going to use firebrick to create a movable back wall......i'll have a handle connected to the movable wall, to create a plunger i can change on the fly, so i don't have to turn off the heat in order to change the volume of the forge. i havent figured out all the details yet, but i figure i could secure the fire brick from the back with a metal structure and have a handle come out through the valve hole......i'm not sure if that makes any sense...but i got it in my head I'm waiting to sell a Lathe i have before i proceed....need the money anyone need a nice lathe!?!?!? thanks for the replies guys
  5. gas forge project ....its about 24" x 16" diam...... made from a long propane tank...the other half with the feet (it was a large verticle tank) has become the beefiest trash can in my shop filled it with water prior to cutting, to make sure nothing would explode...... its kinda big, but i plan to shrink the interior space as needed with insulation. the front door will be made with insulation bricks so i can easily adapt the opening size. the back of the tank is closed.....i might open it up later so i can feed stuff through though will get 3 Reil style burners fed from 2 propane tanks......i'll have an idle loop and valves cuz i dont plan to run all 3 burners all the time....i'll have to see how it does.....i'm hoping i have enough heat to use one burner most of the time so there it is! anyone got any good suggestions and sources for the floor material.....right now i'm just going to lay an insulation brick on the bottom and hope for the best. also, how do i attach the koawool to the sides of the enclosure? thanks! :)
  6. any good way to de-galvanize metal? a guy at work found the PERFECT tank in a junk yard to turn into a gas forge. problem is, its an old RV water tank and its galvanized i know the precautions to take when welding on it... but will pose a problem during operation? I plan to line it with about 3 inches of koawool. let me know your thoughts. thanks! :)
  7. I got a few hardies in the big lot of stuff i got last weekend. my anvil has a 3/4" hardy hole, but most of the hardies are for a larger hole. any reason i can't/shouldn't take a grinder to them and thin them out to the 3/4" i need ? I cant think of anything that would make this a bad idea, but i might be missing something. let me know your thoughts :)
  8. anyone had any luck making a leather washer handle for a knife :confused: similar to the military Ka-bar knives. I've always liked them, but am curious how you guys keep the compression on them so they dont get loose. :)
  9. well to be honest, I'm not looking to be making handles just yet. I have too many irons in the fire as it is....this is one i should pass on for the sake of getting started more than I have so far (now that i have most of the tools) however! i will send you a PM in a shameless attempt to get to come see your forge in action and maybe mooch some pointers since i'm in the Peoria area too ;)
  10. thanks for the reply! the bottom pivot bolt seems to rotate as i move thetraveling half of the vise....like they are stuck together. beating on it its seems to have moved it a little, so i dont tend to think its threaded on either side plate.....though i guess its still possible for there to be threads on the nut side......i'll check some more on that tomorrow. as for the spring ....heat the spring? or rebend it cold? thanks a bunch for the info!
  11. i'd say forge one if the shape of the threaded portion would keep it from sliding off. depending on the shape of that rod, you could also take a hex nut and drill and tap it for a few set screw that would hold it in place.
  12. I've been working on freeing up my leg vise. i have it moving nice and wide.....but still cant get the main pivot bolt out...been pounding on it...applying heat.....PB blaster.....darn bolt wont budge! thats problem number 1....any other suggestions would be great.....if all else fails i'll grind the head and visible thread (i did get the nut off) off the vise and try hitting it out with a big punch and hammer. second... Can i Re-Bend the leaf spring of the vise? its been sitting so long that the spring only touches the moving half of the vise in the fully closed position. also, i'm not sure how to actually remove the spring...seems the support of the vise that also holds the spring has no obvious way to be removed....unless i start unbending metal that holds it on....which i'm a little reluctant to do suggestions pleeeeeeeeze thanks!
  13. i have one...but i didn't know they had a section on practical blacksmithing i'm just looking for the basics ..... i got a feeling that the handbook might get a little more technical than is practical for what I'm doing in my garage. I'll check it out though...cuz I'm replying w/o having looked yet. :)
  14. not really on topic of the knife at hand, but do any of you guys have any resources that sort of quantifies the differences we need to worry about with different grades of steel. you mention working different grades at different temps etc......that sure would be handy to know...even if its just a ball park figures. share!
  15. i see from pictures that most 'smiths use wood handled hammers. any reason i couldnt/shouldnt use a hammer with a fiber glass handle? :confused::confused::confused: (shorter life? poor energy transfer? etc..) theres a combo set of ball pein hammers that contains 8 oz., 12 oz., 16 oz., 24 oz. and 32 oz hammers. its priced well, but they all have the yellow fiberglass handle with rubber grips....I dont want to buy something that i wont be able to use. share thoughts :)
  16. yea i'm int he same boat until i finish the Reil style burner.... I'm using Mapp gas.....it will get small stock a good color of red....but larger stock isn't gonna happen..... welcome again and keep us posted on your progress
  17. firefox has a built in spell checker anywho...thanks for repalcing me as the newest to introduce myself. what are you using for heat in yur mini forge?
  18. that is cool! pretty pricey though. someday if i ever have enough skill, i may give that a try
  19. looks good! did you weld the bird in there? or is it supported/attached by some other way?
  20. anyone have some good sources for the low density insulating brick? I've been searching online but i'm not sure which brick is which. and what temperature range should i get.....i've seen 2300*, 2600*, and 2800*...and i'm sure there are others.... is 2300* enough? any help is welcome!
  21. yea i'd like to know what the ITC alternative is also thanks for all the info people I staked up the bricks and put in a small mapp gas hand-held torch....it got the metal nice and red, but I definately need more heat before i can be productive. I'm going to start buying the pipe parts to make a Reil style burner. keep the brick related info coming! :)
  22. i went to a local brick yard and asked about firebricks. they had some, said they were good up to 2700* and melting point of 3000*.....so i checked em out....they seem hard and solid like normal bricks, except they are a yellowish-white. measure 9"x4".5x2.5" i thought firebrick was supposed to be really soft? :confused: are all firebricks created equal? i bought some of the hard ones from the store....cuz at $1.40 i wasnt really gonna go broke... can i use these? i was going to make something like this more-or-less: Building the forge i could coat it with ITC-100 if it helps afterwards. let me know your thoughts:D:)
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