MLMartin

yes jimbob i expected as much, i have done that before and i expect ill be doing it again. just though i would ask to see if anyone had tryed and had any luck thanks everyone for the tips

i have a plate that is 1 1/2" thick the plate is to big to move into the forge, just not gona happen very well. well i want to place a 1" square hole in the plate and i need it pretty uniform. i have piloted a little hole were i want it. my plan is to drill a much larger hole then heat up around the hole with a rose bud and drive a 1" square drift though. seeing as i want to drift a 1" hole should i go ahead and drill the hole to 1" then heat and drift, or will this force the outside of the hole a little large? if so should i move down and drill a 15/16" or a 7/8" hole?

what a monster, youll have to who us how thats done

thats great, i do the same, none of my knifes have come to look quight as good as yours though. i definetly like knifes that are forged to shape as apposed to guys that just forge out a big flat patty and then grind like crazy until they have the shape they want. i am particularly fond of knives that have never seen a electric tool

how is the nickel attached?

hey sam do you forge the beveled edge any or simply grind the entire thing to shape

look around the site, there is a lot of information on here about this topic, no need for a new post

have seen that good pictures, i think ill just buy a big sack of corn and try it

ive seen how people use corn, will some one elaborate on this. im assuming that it is simply dried corn from a feed store?

140-150# unnamed London 70# Vulcan 250# cast steel gear

hope this is not a repost, seen all the other show me your, but i dont think there is a treadle hammer one

wow, how did you raise the cross so high, i would have torn the metal, vary good, im impressed

hey guys I am wondering where everyone buys powdered steel and stainless, i have spent a little while on the internet looking and cant find anything any for sale, just info on it, i will be trying some forge welding with it, love the stainless steel damascus knives and rings

Sweet!, so your making that one for me right?

yes im hoping to find a used one but no luck so far, only one ive found was in FL for 3000

i was wondering if anyone could tell me the pitch of some of the larger fly presses, or if theres some formula for the wight of the head vs screw diameter vs thread pitch. i am looking into the possibility of making a fly press, welding up a base, arm, and ram guide are no problem. but i have not clue what type of screw to use, i imagine i would have to have it turned out on a lathe, along with the receive for the arm. i know that is quight steep. could the screw be perched from McMaster ccarr?

when you cut and shape the steel your more than likely to loose the temper any way, if you cut it with a torch then the temper is gone, use a plasma the temper is gone, cut it with a cutting wheel and it will heat up, unless you cut really really slow, then yo would have to grind the edge, and unless you ground really slow you would loose the temper, and since you said that you have already been beating it with a hammer there is probably micro fractures in the steel,(most springs don't like hard impact) springs do make great knives , but not at a spring temper(blue), they have to be re temped to a straw color at the edge

yes you can run a cut with only oxy after the cut is started, on 1/2" i have cut 4 or 5" but thats about it, vary hard to hold my hand that steady, if you jerk at all you loose the cut, good practice, also some times when im forging and i need to remove a little metal i grab my torch and just jet out OXY since my steel is already red hot

i have made a few hammers out of old wagon axle, have no clue what there made of, show a fair amount of carbon sparks when grond

so hows your anvil holding, i have a poor old 70lb volcen, that some one did alot of cutting on, only one little chip that goes down deep enough to reach the cast iron, about 3/8 deep 1/2 long on a edge, but all over the anvil theres little cuts no deeper than 3/32 but a lot of them and they drive me nuts, i tig a lot at work, and hope to pic one up for my own shop soon, plan to try what you did to work on my anvil

hey i have a propane forge ive been using it for about 3 years, and the burners on it stink, i mean pretty bad, did not know what i was doing when i made them, i have lurned alot about them since then, i plan on making some new ones now and want to build something similar to the T rex burners, i can see that it has a 3/4 neck, about 9 - 10 in long, also that it its lathed at the air intake, the bell that reduces to the neck, then welded to a larger pipe that has fore slotted holes, it has a sliding air cover, that back cap it just welded on, but how dose the back intake tighten to the little gas jet, its some kind of fitting that shrinks as it scrues in, and what type of tip is in the burner, a mig tip, what size, dose anyone have the blue prints to this burner?, i would like to just buy one for the man that makes it but an pretty hard on money

so how many people out there use hammers without handles? haha, rather strange, considering they put handles on all there garden tools, but not on hammers

i use 4 springs on my hammer, they are 15 doller grade door springs from home depot, 140 lb pull, 2 springs actually, but they are cut in half so 4

ive herd that you can weld aluminum with OA but have never seen it, ill have to try it, any tips, ive brazed and welded thin stuff like 3/32 but thats it

thank you to everyone that makes this site great, the man who makes the site and the people who give answers and ideas!