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Posts posted by lazyassforge
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Southshore,
Thank you very much for sharing this great reference!
Farmall, Thanks for making it easy to print off!
Bill D. -
TRitter, That is a great job! I am very impressed! It looks like you put the flat stock around the edge to help support the weld at the edge when you were hard surfacing is that correct?
Thanks for posting this!
Bill D. -
That vise was in Missouri between Nebraska city Nebraska and Kansas City! I looked at it on the 29th of December! It was out in the consignment area. But when I looked at it there was not a price tag. Someone put a lot of effort and thought into that thing. Let me know how well it works.
Bill Davis -
MM, I think the plan you have would work a lot better than doing nothing! If I was in your situation and wanted an anvil, I would not hesitate to do it. There was an old blacksmith in southern Kansas(town of Hartner i believe) who had welded up several anvils with a method very simular to what you describe. They seemed to work for him. I saw them and he had taken plate and cut them to various shapes so that when they were stacked, they had the shape of a london pattern anvil.
Bill D. -
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That is really neat! You done good!
Bill Davis -
Thomas, You are looking at anvil prices from a pile of anvils. If you were looking from a beginners spot of having no anvils the prices might not seem so far out of line!
There is also the factor of "walking around money" meaning some people just budget more money for their hobbies!
Bill Davis (who also sees a lot of anvils selling for more than I am willing to pay) -
"Boy, that Hay Budden is going to cause some interesting discussians in the future."
Arftist, Take a look at the second thumbnail in this thread here on I Forge Iron:
I don't know how many were made but they were available back in the day! I just made it that way because I thought it would be neat to have!
Bill Davis -
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Nice Job!
I have welded up several anvils with Rob Gunther's method. They have all stood up well. No chipping in spite of my lackluster welding skills!
Bill D. -
For my two cents, I use a light oil (30 weight or so) non-detergent or a machine way lube. I think the majority of the oil you put on will sling off the moving parts, hopefully taking the majority of the grit that gets on the machine in a blacksmith shop away with it. The only oil that really counts is what flows in between the moving parts. I tend to oil every 2 to 3 hours of operation. I feel the heavy oils do not get into the areas that are moving against each other as well and the "sticky" oils such as chainsaw bar oil tend to keep more grit in the moving parts causing extra wear. Regular motor oil has a detergent in it which attracts water. On a humid day there will be a milky look to the oil on the machine where the detergent has absorbed moisture from the air. I can't help but think that would cause corrosion eventualy.
Having said all this I think the most important thing on the mechanical hammers is to use lots of oil no matter what kind!!
Bill Davis -
Hey, Sweaney! are you going to do that at your next meeting?
Bill D. -
I believe the poll at the top of the page is broken, I can't get it to let me select "BOTH"!
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Thomas,
One thing about using bone meal from the garden supply for case hardening. The last time I tried it they were not using cow bones(mad cow disease?), it was ground up pig bones can you say stinky smoke? I noticed when I opened the package that it was "pink" looking but didn't think about it.
Bill D. -
Here is a shortcut to an atha tool trademark. Does it look simular?
Bill Davis -
Link to Kaowool MSDS:
http://www.furnaceindustries.com/Images/msds-kaowool-blanket.pdf
Bill Davis -
This is the vise and swage block stand I use in the shop and at demo's. ( I actually have 3) They are fairly stable and light enough for me to load by myself. To move them around I either use a two wheel dolly or just tip them onto two legs and "walk" them. This style is also what we use in the club teaching trailer.
Hope this helps! Bill Davis
Well I guess that didn't work! I will try and add the picture later. -
The reamer cuts right hand just like a normal drill bit(right hand), the flutes are left hand so it "pushes" itself out of the hole. If the flutes were right hand, it would tend to pull itself into the hole and cut too much out of the hole or jam up.
Hope this helps!
Bill Davis -
A tapered pin reamer for use in a milling machine? Like the one shown here:
http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=207&PARTPG=MWSRCH&PMITEM=02402139&PMCTLG=54&PMT4TP=*LTIP
Bill Davis -
A few years ago I got the privelage of riding in a B-17 called Aluminum Overcast. The view from the bombadier's seat is super! But I cannot imagine the horror of being inside of one of those planes while people were doing their best to shoot it down. The bravery of those kids (and all the others who have fought for this country) is beyond my comprehension! Thank you all.
Bill Davis -
Tommy, The Saltfork block will not fit into one of the flat rate boxes.(Believe me we have checked!) We usually ship them UPS. The block is not a copy of the Saltfork block, it does not have a shovel blank in it.
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I have seen a few of these at farm auctions and been told that they are a counterweight for the header on old grain combines. I can't confirm that, but two different old men have said the same thing. That is all the information I have!
Bill Davis -
I hate to admit it, but this time I agree with Thomas! These anvils will someday go back into circulation. It may not be in our lifetime but sooner or later they will be used again. At least this man is not welding them into a pointless "monument" like an un-named person here in Oklahoma:
http://www.horseshoeingmuseum.com/faithfulanvil.htm
Bill Davis -
Rusty, if you will PM me your address I will get the editor to send you a copy of the November newsletter. It will have a map to the house. Or, if you go to this website: Saltfork Craftsmen ,there are a lot of the Saltfork newsletters available after they have been published.
As far as the story that I work in a machine shop, that is just a rumor started by people I owe money too!
Bill D.
Hi from Oklahoma
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
Aljeter,
There are members scattered over southwest Oklahoma. There are members in Hollis, Altus, Mountian View, Lawton, Elgin, Fletcher, Duncan. There are meetings in the southwest district almost every month.
I live near the town of Sterling Ok. The meeting in November is at my farm on the 19th. You (or anybody else) are welcome to come join us at the meeting.
Bill D.