Everything posted by bmazingo
- rr spike knife
- rr spike knife
- rr spike knife
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Parts for first coal forge
Probably stationary. I am just going to use about 4-6" of it. The end with the large opening, and then the fitting with the holes for my tyre. I am going to get it turned down or cut.
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Parts for first coal forge
Hey guys and gals. I have been wanting to build me a coal forge to go along with my gasser. I was going to use a brake drum but I got my hands on an accumulator off of an old hydraulic system. I think it will work for the fire pot and tyre. I am gonna cut it and use the end with the big opening. Take a look and give me your opinions.
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Bridge Anvils
I am not sure how big of an anvil you are referring to? But here is a link to a video that clearly shows a bridge anvil in use.
- First Cable Knife
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First Cable Knife
- First Cable Knife
- First Cable Knife
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Wrought Iron
This is a scan of a piece of wrought iron I recieved from OldNRusty. I cut and smoothed one end of the 5/4" bar. Then I etched it with sulfuric acid to show the grain structures of the bar. This bar has a cold shut that runs the entire length. That is the big crack you see in the picture. Just thought I would share it.
- Wrought Iron
- First gas forge
- DSCN2744
- DSCN2743
- DSCN2742
- DSCN2741
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DSCN2740
- My First Attempt at a ROSE
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My First Attempt at a ROSE
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First gas forge
I have been using the forge and for general forging it works great. But I have noticed that when I crank up the gas and air for welding I have a problem. The high temp mortar begins to melt in one spot. I thought at first it was from the borax, but I think now that it is more heat developing at the rear burner. Jymm Hoffman mentioned that I may have to adjust the burner tips to equalize the flow. I think he was correct. I believe this is what is happening: At lower temps (lower air/fuel pressure) the burners are or appear to be equal. This is probably not the case bu it is hard to tell. Then when I turn up the air/fuel pressure for welding the pressure/heat increases and creates a hot spot on the floor in front of the rear burner. Over a period of time it eventually heats the mortar to a point that it melts and then melts the ceramic wool. I think I can use some stainless steel pot scrubber (really coarse) to slow down the flow to the rear burner. I am going to remove the pipe plug from the end of my burner assembly and insert the ss wool between the two burners. This should restrict the flow to the rear burner. If any one else has any ideas please post. I will try to get some pictures posted.
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Buffalo Forge #210 What is it worth?
Great forge! It looks really nice. Does the blower work? I have no idea on what it is worth but I know if the blower work it increases the value.
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What is it? Does it go with a Buffalo Forge #210?
I would say no. It looks like a treadle powered grinder/sharpener missing the stone. You would sit on the seat and work the treadles which would turn the stone.
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Is this a bad crack?
Anvil rings nicely higher pitch at the horn and hardie hole. Horn is kinda mushrooomed on the point, but it could be dressed. Vice is missing spring. Grinder is just a grinder. Forge Is in decent shape minus the blower as you can see. I am gonna start at $300.00 I think that is a fair starting price
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Is this a bad crack?
Thanks for all the advice