the iron dwarf

can you measure the amount of current taken for something like your last video here, it is really impressive heating that 1/2" round on 120v

Dave Budd and John B on here are the people to ask, im a long way away in the east mids and use forge breeze from KG Smith near northampton

im here but from another part of the country

only 1 visitor, Justin Lee Baker, maker of English wheels came round for a bash

most of the larger compressor tanks I have cut up here have been at least 1/4" thick, have one in the workshop that is not in use that is 6 foot long and about 18" diameter and to heavy to lift even one end by hand ( it may get cut up soon for something

here a stone is 14 pounds so 4 stones is not a hundredweight

a pound is 16 ounces

these days most people here have gone to kilo's though

here when weighing people pounds and stones were normally used rather than just pounds like you lot over there use

I would do a test on any unknown tank to double the working pressure, and known tanks I would make sure are tested each year as well.

compressed air has a lot of stored energy and will explosively decompress if given the chance, this is why tanks are hydraulicly rested as there is no stored energy that way and at worst you get a little jet of water when something goes

im at kettering, anyone interested?

I just thought we would go over the top a bit on the rebar and studding, I would always over engineer things rather than under as it is much cheaper to do it too well the first time than have to remove it and do it again, the block was 6' long and just under 2 foot wide IIRC.

rebar and studding was no closer than 3" from the edges

thank you for the explanation DSW, I knew a little of it but not all.

when I installed a hammer we went down 4 foot, there was IIRC about 14 pieces of 16mm studding, each 4 foot long with a 90 degree bend about a foot from the bottom, a template was made from square steel tube with the holes drilled to within 1mm of the holes in the base of the hammer and nutted above and below, a cage was made from 25mm rebar with 4 rectangular frames going front to back that sat on the bottom of the L shapes of the studding and a few cross pieces, a few small welds to hold things in place and it was dropped in the hole.

then 2 cubic meters of concrete was poured in to fill it to ground level, we had about a foot of studding above ground because the makers of the hammer said to sit it on wooden railway sleepers ( think you call them ties ).

we left the concrete for a month and then dropped the timber on the studding and put the hammer in place, it all went on perfectly.

this was for a sahinler 50kg air hammer ( 120lb at a guess )

im sure Iron Woody could commute daily  :)

i know he is a good distance away but vampire archer on here is looking to learn, he is from watford i think, see the introduce yourself section here

a visit to the dump or scrapyard is *ALWAYS* in order!

I do this 6 days a week and make tools from the finds, I stock 5 types of rail at the moment and each in various lengths, lots of wear parts from excavators and agricultural stuff, lots of bearings and parts of bearings and much more

am thinking of making a belt sander to use some scotchbrite belts I can get cheap, on the lookout myself or going to make some

i use forge breeze by kg smith, seems good to me and pay 9.75 for a 20kg bag

would have liked to go to this but it is the same weekend as another event im at, maybe next year

buy it nows on ebay from 900 uk pounds, can deliver, auctions for less for a 20 foot long one

here in the uk they are more likely to be rusty than warped, they often have a few dents but that is all

they are made of corten steel that is not too bad for rust but check what it is like before buying as the floors sometimes rot out.

hot in summer and cold in winter and noisy all the time.

you should be able to get them for less than 2 grand, fix the forge on the outside under a roof if you can, the anvil is more of a problem but I would not fix it to the door

hi Vampire Archer and welcome, yes it is me here and thank you for all the hard work you did.

you will also find Dave Budd on here sometimes.

have a read and see what you can learn here, ask questions and maybe you will get a sensible answer and learn a lot more.

look out for events in your area and meet a few more people from here

thanks monst, just trying to think of things in advance whilst we wait

further looking at high temp sleeving I have seen a product called cool blue that it is claimed in one place will be ok at 3000 degrees F but on the same site the maximum temp is also quoted as 2000 degrees F.

though this is not needed on the coil it could help prevent shorting out which I seen here on a picture of several windings on a coil glowing white hot or accidentally touching the coil with the work, I also thought of possibly using a ceramic tube with the coil wound around it.

I do a lot of small stuff about 1/2" round and square where I just need to heat the 3" at the end and at the moment use a coke forge which works fine but is slower and heats a lot more up than just the work ( not so good on a really hot day ) and takes a while to get going.

if a sleeve or tube can keep a lot of the radiated heat from the work away from the coil I think coils may last longer ( dont know how long they last if using them a lot or how much work the cooling system has to do but if you were heating for 5 seconds out of every 30 with several people thats a lot of heat, done fast work before with 3 people a power hammer and an anvil before when a lot of things had to be made fast ).

on insulating sleeving you might want to look into using Kevlar, that withstands great temperatures I think, does anyone know what it will take or if it is available in a sleeve form

was not sure if this project had gone the way of the monty python parrot after the long break, glad to see some hope of light at the end of the tunnel.

I would like to know how easy it would be to run on other supplies like here in the uk we have 240v single phase ( most domestic sockets are 13a but in industry we use bigger ) and 3 phase is 440v ( mine is 32a per phase ), all of them at 50 Hz.

europe has similar to us I think but at slightly lower voltages, maybe 220v