JerryCarroll

I haven't thanked Glenn and the others responsible for keeping this place going so well in a while so this note takes care of not posting, and saying again--This site is great!! I can't imagine not having the privilege of veiwing the postings of other Smiths and the gallery of "stuff" I enjoy so much.

I've used sway bar--tie rod--leaf spring. All seem to be holding up even after welding and no heat treat.

Real nice Marc!! I make roses too and can appreciate the work it takes using a spike. Looks like you use the same method I do to close the bottom--makes a better rose :)

When I make a knife from a spike I judge the handle length by using the width of 4 fingers and lightly fuller with a 1/2" round spring fuller--just enough to make it round. from there I draw out the blade (width & length). I also use a tool I made from a bearing race to make a round ball at the place to fuller instead of fullering. It takes a little practice to get the blade centered with the handle but it ain't bad. I have some pictures in the gallery. Some blades I pierce with a heart, star or cross or whatever. The interest in spike knives amaze me and they sell!!

Mark, I would leave the springs long till you see how much throw you need. If you can notice on mine I left the back part of the spring longer so I can slide the push rod pivot back and forth to change the height of hammer movement. I have turn-buckle ends at the pivots that make the distance between the dies at rest adjustable too. It took a bit of time to get the adjustments where I need them for the stock I am using but it makes a big difference when you CAN adjust things.

Thanks Ron. The wheel support/bearing housing is the top of a very old (1940's like me) combination planer/circlelar saw that had a 3 hp 3 phase motor. The 1" shaft is plenty strong to handle the tire. I had planed to build a support for roller bearings but this was here and free.

One picture is in the gallery. I can take some close up shots of the assembly and mail them with specs if you like. The ram is a round (2" I think) bar in a square heavy wall tube welded on each end and squared up and milled very lightly on the sides to fit in another square tube for the guide--no slop! 28 pounds.

I just finished building a hammer based on the rusty plans. Like you Mark, I made my own modifications--especially on the drive. I used the doughnut tire/pulley-on-the motor application. I have about $50 invested and a lot of time but the results are pleasing. The old 1 hp motor will soon be relaced with a new one that runs at one speed making it more efficent. For the pulley I made a flange to fit the 3/4" motor shaft and used oak to make the drive wheel--6" dia. It's running about 180+ hits a minute and after getting things ballanced is a pleasure to use. Pictures are available.

my electric blower on the shop forge is from an oil furnace--air control is on the side of the blower that goes from nothing to blow the coal up off the grate! I used the blower/auger from a coal stocker on another before. Look around--be inventive, you'll be surprised what can be used.

Don, around my place there is chert--pretty hard, in fact I've used pieces in my flint lock making good sparks! I made a spud outta a torsion bar from under an old '60s Plymouth--68 I think. Good spring steel. I've cut it up for adz stock but I'm thinking it was over 5' long. Heavy and strong enough to carve rock with after pounding an end to a half moon chisel.

Ron, MIke mentioned an important part of a welding fire---depth. I've learned 4" is minimum.

I had a 24'x40' pole barn with a 6' overhang the 40' length for a porch before I retired. Walls are 12' high with a 16' peak--no windows for security--10' wide door on the end toward the front of the property and a 36" walk in door bout 2/3 the way back on the porch side. 12" stack is on the backend of the building thru the wall and up 3' above the peak. Floor is 27 tons of fine packed road mix gravel. The barn is behind my garage/woodworking 24'x40' 2 story building. My family calls my place "the Carroll compound".

I can't imagine trying to get much cutting done without the Greenlee porta-band I have had for many years. It's 2 speed and I use a wax I made from bees wax and tallow for lube. Cutting oil is a no-no on pb's I've been told and I had the wax handy for loading my 44. black powder revolver. Bi-metal blades are a little pricey to order but are worth the cost.

I used lawn mower blade for making the furniture for a trade rifle. When I attempted to cold bend the trigger guard to fit it snapped like glass--same with the butt plate. I had quenched the finished pieces in water at just below red. There was more carbon or something added than I had read about in research. I shoulda done the test Woody recomends.

You're still on our list here Ed, Prayer is powerful!

James Meek's book "Art of Engraving" has a very good section on inlaying. It's a fine book for design and layout basicaly for gun engravers. I really like it.

I got the new Lee Valley catalogs this week. I am amazed at the tools they have available! Great pictures show tool details & quality of the tools too.

Our deepest condolences and Prayers for Wayne and the family.
Jerry & Carol Carroll

I use these 2 tools for my fire tending and a small shovel to load the coal to the fire. I used electric fence posts for stock for the tools.

ec, I use a hinged setup too with a pin opposite the hinge to hold the glass in place. I've got pictures somewhere I can post.

I have been using the insulators for candle holders a long time and can safely say they will break if a candle is allowed to burn down to close to the glass. Even incense will get them hot enough to pop. I use the same method as yesteryearforge to make the section to hold the insulator--usually in the groves in the glass where the wire was wrapped. The stock I use for most of the holders is scrounged from local cemetary dumpsters (easels for holding flowers)

I have a picture in the gallery of one of my styles of candle holders from insulators. I have some very early ones yet. Lots of abandoned poles in my area.

Quote--"Getting rid of cords doesn't help me when I've got a welding job that I can't get into the garage and need to drag the welder down the driveway though. That was the reason for spending a hundred bucks on that 10ga. cord.

If I'm not mistaken welders on an extension cord is not a good idea. I have extensions on my welding leads that store under the heavy boxs my welders sit on. As for the extension cords I loop my 100' cords over my hand as described in someones previous post and the last loop is used to wrap the bundle at the top and pushed thru just above the wrap leaving a short loop at the top to hang the bundle. I have a short length of 2" pvc pipe over the nail used for hanging to prevent damaging the cord by kinking.

$10 for 5 decent tongs?? WOW!

I heat the end of a length of 1/8" rod and burn a shallow cross hatch pattern on most of my rounded handles followed by rubbing a coat of linseed oil on--not much, just enough to coat the burn marks. Most of the handles I make I shape octagon. Thet seem easier to hold for me.