JerryCarroll

I read the same stuff about straightening auto springs by parking a tractor or heavy vehicle on the reverse side of it bending it backwards---no luck!! My buddy Scott sez "why do you think they call them springs dude??" Anyway I bought some flat stock and am leaving the heavy straightening to the fellows with the tools to do it without risking damage to my parts or whatever is parked on the spring.

Cheftjcook, thanks for your post! Add Love to Faith and patience and enjoy a life the way God means for us to have.

I worked at a Ford stamping plant for 35 years--much as a salvage repairman--metal finisher. OA--tig--mig--arc. In my smitty I would be lost a lot of times without my torch.

Aww-- clinkers, sometimes something just needs to be heated for straightening or bending so I don't use my "good WV coal"--I use the stuff I have salvaged from coal bins in some of the older homes here that make some good sized clinkers. I try to fish them out in as big a chunk as I can--let them cool--dip them in future acrylic floor finish and after drying, present them as dragon droppings. They go quick.

I use a lot of small rod for flower stems and basket fabbing. There is 4 cemeteries within a 1/2 hour of me that gladly give all the easels that flowers are displayed on just so they don't have to deal with them. The rod is usually from 3/16" to 1/4". I also use them to stake vines (cucumber--green beans--gourds) in my garden. Just one of my sources.

Glenn, and the other workers us readers don't know. This is a great watering hole for a bunch of thirsty Blacksmiths and those that want to be. Thank you all very much.

I use 2: both purchased from a farmers supply store--both galvinized. One is oblong-5 gallons, filled with water. The other is a regular 3 gallon pail filled with peanut oil. I have a cover on the pail mostly to keep the critters out.

When I use round stock for leaves I always form a pyramid on the section that will be the leaf--short for rounded leaves--a little longer for more tapered ones. The tip is tapered down to a point on the top end and both sides. The pyramid is fullered over the far edge of the anvil on both sides and the top at a distance a little shorter than what the leaf length will be. I start the flatening hitting the top of the pyramid first with the flat of the hammer and draw out by using the cross pien almost straight across for a long leaf or at about a 45 angle toward the wide end of the leaf working both sides to keep it even on the stem for a fatter leaf. I've made curved end chisels for the veins and use a wide chisel for the center vein. I use both chisels with the leaf clamped in the vise. For rose leaves I make the small cuts in the edge--take a heat and on the horn lightly work the edge to soften the chisel effect. Most folks will have a technique that works best for them. I've tried the folded leaves that take more time and make beautiful leaves after practice but I make a lot and what I've described is "my way". I hope it helps.

Nice looking setup! Looks like you've done some research before you started. I'm sure you're going to enjoy using it. Good luck.

Ed is on our list here. Prayer has worked for me and I know sharing Blessings makes this world a better place.

Thanks folks, The poems are printed and placed by the picture. They older poems are classic.

My son just found and bought for me a print of the painting by Paul Detlefsen titled "The Smithy". It's 4 ft. wide x 2ft. high, framed and beautiful. I've been trying to find the poem about the smithy under the spreading chestnut tree that I saw mentioned in the forum or the pub some time back without any luck and I thought maybe one of our members have a better memory than I and wouldn't mind helping.

Puppet,
Using a tap to regulate air flow has to be an original idea. Good thinking! I have some 2-3-4" brass butterfly valves that probably will work a little easier. Thanks.

Do you do the feast in W. Lafayette MT? I've only missed a couple in the last few years.

My shop anvil is a 127 lb. Armitage mouse hole mounted on a section of power-line pole set in the floor a couple of feet.

For park demo's I use an old farm forge with the pump handle/ratchet belt driven blower mounted underneath. I also have a Canady-otto western chief pedistal mounted hand cranked blower I've set up to use on another portable forge I making from a free standing fire place.

My shop forge has an oil furnace injector blower with an air gate. The oil supply line is blocked off so it gets only air. The air adjusting lever is on the front of the forge within easy reach.

I don't think it matters either. One thing I do because I think it makes a handle less likely to break is when I rive the blanks from a sizeable piece of trunk (10--20") I use a froe and cut the pieces about 2-3" wide on the bark side. In shaping the handle the growth rings run horizontial to the hammer head. I have handles made from several kinds of trees. Figured maple is pretty--hickory is strong and a pretty strong wood is hedge apple, sometimes called osage orange. Depends on which side of the road you live on.

See Blueprints
BP0342 Handles
BP1012 Making Hammer Handles

Prayers and sympathy are offered from here Irn. Losing the young ones is heart breaking.

simmonds, in this area there is a lot of metal working been going on for a long time. The Garey Ind. mills are only an hour away and a lot of smithing stuff in the past has been made in this area. Chgo. Hgts. is south of Chgo. a short distance and has had manufactors of forges--blowers & other tools. There is several spring shops, some you can deal with and others that only cater to the big guys. Here in Momence there was a spring factory named Tuthill. When they closed there was a lot of flat stock stacked back in the corners and I was lucky enough to know the new owners of the building. A lot of things went quick--like the power hammers and tooling for them. If I had known then that I was gonna get hooked as hard as I have been on beating hot iron I would have gathered a bunch more than I did of the good stuff. Check your phone book for spring shops and with luck you can probably come up with a supplier. Good luck!!

I was gonna mail the pictures but there is no addy in your profile.

Simmonds, I'm emailing some pictures--.

I set up my Rusty style hammer drive with a 24" doughnut tire & rim--1 hp 1750 rpm motor & a 6" shop made oak drive wheel. The hammer is 28 lbs. and the speed control is great. A picture is in the gallery. It took a little effort to get it adjusted (throw length, clamps on the stacked leaf springs for flexing mainly) but it runs smooth. My Grandsons love it!

Where else can you find help like the above posting?? Thanks to irn and others this site is priceless.

I have a barrel of coal I got for cleaning out a bin that sounds like what you have. I could not get a decent weld with the stuff so I just use it for heating stock to bend or teach basic hammer technics. My recent purchase of a load of pocohantis from W. V. is great for welding tho. From experence I can tell you bad fuel is discouraging! I would suggest another batch of coal if you have to weld--unless you don't have a choice.