Torin

Well, the chart for what I got is: http://www.waleapparatus.com/HTM%20pages/sf2transmission.htm Here is a translation of what nm is what light: What Wavelength Goes With a Color? Looks like there are some better ones out there, but this should help quite a bit more than normal Didymiums.

Alternately, what ones do you like making the most? What ones have you made?

I just want to point out that there isn't a lot of UV that you will be getting from a forge, it is IR. UV will come from sunlight and arc welding.

http://content.lincolnelectric.com//pdfs/products/navigator/im/IM237.pdf It may not be your exact model, but it should be enough information to start with.

You can right-click and choose 'Save As...' for IE 7.

I just tried to download it and I'm getting a 404 error.

Yes, I will be trying to get it to hit along the edge of the face. And yes it is more likely to chip that way. Oh, I seriously doubt I'm going to wind up on Mythbusters. I'm just going to be presenting this in person to some of the build team...assuming I can get it up and running in time to break some hammers. The new VFD just arrived today, and I'm hoping the motor arrives tomorrow.

I gave Estwing a call today. They wouldn't tell me the alloy other than 'High Carbon Steel'. However they did tell me that their hammers run from 50-55 Rc. I've got 3 now. 1 for the anvil (so to speak), 1 for breaking, and 1 in case I need to harden it up some more. I think 50 will be good enough. Motor and drive should arrive in the next day or two.

Well, I *thought* I was ready to sit down and break a hammer. Everything was set up and seemed to be working great. However, I noticed that the hammer speed seemed to be running fairly slow. So I timed it. 150 hits a minute on the VFD was actually running about 120 hits. So, since the torque is less the slower you go with a VFD, I went ahead and upped the speed on it to 180. Timed it and it was actually running at just over 100 hits a minute. Crud :mad: Ok, time to face the fact that I've got an underpowered rig here. I can trade up on the VFD (getting a 3hp maximum rated), but not the motor. So I'm getting a 2 hp motor, and since they don't use the same frame, or have the same shaft size, I need to do some more work on the rig. On the plus side, I can use more rigid construction. On the other side of this project, it looks like the hammers i got are REALLY cheap. The one I hardened in superquench only got up to 45 Rockwell C! Does anybody know any brand name hammers that have more carbon in them than that? I need ones with a metal handle all the way through. I need it for how I mount them after hardening. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum, and here is hoping you find the information and inspiration you want. :)

I don't need to e-mail them, I'm going to get to present my findings in person. Also, if they thoroughly cover this situation, can you explain why in this very thread, there is somebody who has had hammers chip out on him more than once? And what case hardening compound did they use to case harden the hammers? And quenching in used motor-oil to increase the carbon content of iron? Are they aware of how slow carbon migration is? Normally they are pretty good, but they missed a few things on this one. The main thing is I know several people who have small chunks of steel still in their bodies from flying shards from hammers. (Ok, they have probably been coroded away and absorbed by now, but they were never removed.) The other reason I'm doing this video, is because it is one of the few ways I can stand out from the crowd on their forums that are still yelling at them that you can indeed cut through a machine gun barrel with a katana.

I'm currently working with a hardened hammer. The other thing is that over time the hammers work harden. Their tests were done with only new hammers, and only one time per hammer. Plus it looks like they didn't get it quite hot enough, or quench well enough to harden.

Thanks, I'll go with that range. I'm currently working with a 14" stroke, but I can increase it. And I also know several people who have personally chipped hammers. I just need to catch it on video along with some other good information.

Some of you may know of my current 'fun' project. Mythbusters did a show a little while ago where they said you could hit hammer faces together and you wouldn't chip them out. Well, I'm doing a little project to disprove this. However I'm having a little bit of a problem. My current setup is lifting and then dropping a hammer, so that gravity is the only thing powering the hammer hit. After 33000 hits, it hasn't chiped. I can change it to where it delivers a powered hit, but I don't want to exceed the force that a human would be able to deliver. If I knew the speed that a human driven hammer hits, I could work the math out and drive the hammer at that rate. Does anybody know how fast this is, or where to find this information? Edit: The hammer has broken it's shaft and as a long crack in the neck, but nothing on the face yet. And I'm using plenty of protection from possible flying shards.

Very true. Warming the oil thins it out and lets it circulate easier so that convection currents can transfer heat faster.

Hey there. Some of you may know me from back around the late 90s and a little later than that. I'm still in PA, just bought a house, and I'm getting forge and shop set back up again. Good to see a lot of you on here that I remember. Hey Glenn, I might make Blackstone this year...don't know for sure though.