BM454

I would do small sections at a time. Get a temp stick also. Should keep it from losing it's hardness. You can also use 9018 or 11018 welding rods. They require preheat no matter what you weld on. Where it be harden steel or mild steel. I have found on harden steels, it helps to post heat somewhat.

Just a thought

Scott

I'm thinking of a tight ladder pattern. Seen one online eariler and it looked really good.

I was in the mood for a new blade today. I got a late start so it will be tomorrow (wife willing) before I get finished forging the blade. I did however make some blue denim micarta for the handles. If I have my way with it I'm going to make a hunter or something along that line. If the wife has her way I'll be making a dagger. I did promise her one (last year).

The blade is going to be 1074/75 spring steel and sawmill bandsaw blade. I've got 18 layers already welded and drawn out. gonna cut that into 3 sections and reweld to get 54. Then 3 again to get 162 then I'm going to half it to get my 324 count. I was going to do 3 again but I don't know how 486 layers would look. If someone with more experience would care to chime in on this one please feel free to do so.

I was thinking of doing a ladder pattern again but not for sure if I go with the hunter. I know it would look good on a dagger.


Scott

If you knew what kind of tiller it came from and could reach the company that made it. You may be able to get that info from them. Just a thought.

Scott

That pad sould be more than enough to hold it. It may crack with time due to the hammering but still should be strong enough to hold the hammer for many years.

Scott

Nice anvil ya got there. I would guess it to be a Trenton or a Hay Budden. Either way I'd be happy with it.

You could take the end cap off and soak it from the back end of it. The cap is made like a grease cap on the front end of a 2x4 car or truck. It also has to pins towards the back end of it that could be knocked out and help remove the inner workings of the vice. It's a threaded tube with ears that fits into slots. Well my Wilton 600s is made that way.

Hope this helps.

Scott

I know what ya mean there Dan. I had to give it up. I was walking into work one day and collapsed a lung. Not the most pleasant experience of my life.

Welcome to IFI Jesse. I have to say these folks on here are a helpful bunch and seem to be good down to earth people. As far as judging you goes. I've did things in my past I could care less about mentioning . I was taught to never judge anyone by their past. I'm just thankful I survived my past. Amazing what time and children can do for you.


Scott

I'd think a little slop is to be expected. Any idea when it was built or how hard it was used in the past? Gears wear with time. I'm guessing you could probably shim it some more to get most of it out. If it was not causing problems I'd just use it, unless you have nothing else to do but get it perfect. Glad the harder washers worked out for you. Rubber is not really a good washer or shim on something that has moving parts. I'd be safe to say as long as you use proper lubrication in it, the blower will last many years to come.

Scott

Welcome to IFI by the way. Great place to learn just about anything you want to know about metal work. Good bunch of folks all around.

I would try brass. Most things that are metal to metal usually use brass. NOT always but, it does work well. I have a blower like you are talking about but, don't have it here at the moment. If I go over to my other place this weekend I'll try and look to see what it has. I'd be safe to say they are brass though.

Scott

If I'm not mistaken the southern crescent anvils were made in Chattanooga Tennessee, From what little I've heard of them, They are good anvils. Just on hear say alone that is.

Scott

A friend of mine builds chairs out of half inch HR round stock. He uses one of these table benders and it seems to work very well. He has a small die in the machine at the moment but, it works well with larger bends as well.

Scott

http://inv.nationalmachy.com/q/webinv/005700=p,4678,,,p,,,20145521,a

That would be (yes). Depending on what you measured them with of course ;)

Thank you Chuck and everyone else. I'm looking forward to getting back in my shop. As of now, I'm working 10 hours a day, 6 days a week. Plus driving a total of 3 hours a day. Getting really old, really quick. Not sure what I want to make next but, I have an ideal on the design.

Scott

This here would probably work too and it's cheap to do.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/118564/thread/1237765663/1237840733/back+to+carving+how+do+you+move+big+logs

Here's a list of 20 things you can use it for.

http://ecosalon.com/20-unusual-uses-for-vinegar-253/

I like it a lot.

Thank you Steve. I'm proud of it for sure. I don't have much time at the moment to do another one. Working 10 hours a day 6 days a week and driving a total of 3 to 3.5 hours a day. If I get some time it's to sleep. I do have a blade in mind though. I may do a double edge this next time. The wife wants a dagger. I'm guessing I'll make her one. She just don't know it yet.

Scott

I used muriatic acid. Always use caution when doing so. There's a wealth of information on this sight about knives and any other metal working you might be interested in. Very good folks on here.

I'm gonna have to buy that book someday. Seems to be filled with a wealth of knowledge.

I'm going to take Mick's advice about the grooves closer together on the next one. This is just the first one so I still have some learning to do yet. I enjoy this as mush as anything I've ever done in my life. I don't have the time to do another one at the moment. It's probably going to be around Christmas before I will have the time to work on anything else. I hope to get a weekend off sometime between now and then but, the wife would have dibs on that time :)

Beautiful work.

Thank you Mick and everyone else. I'm just getting started so I still yet have a lot to learn. I will take any good advice from anyone who is willing to give it. Young or old. Beautiful work by the way.

Scott