BM454

Or sanding block.

Thank You

It went to a very good cause. Here where I live, people do not ask for help unless needed. This family needed help and needed it badly. I was happy it brought what it did. I'd do it again and not think twice about it.

Scott

Here's mine finished. I'm not great at this but, I do enjoy it rather well. This is the first one I've finished from start to end. The handle is Mahogany and the blade is cable from a logging skidder as is the guard. It's not as nice as I wanted it but, I like it.

Knife looks good. I hope mine turns out as well. This is my first true attempt at a cable blade. I've got the handles on and waiting to be finished. Just gonna wait until the morning before I finish working them down. It's got mahogany handles with 308 stainless pins.

One to Two cups in a load of laundry takes out oil and grease smells. Helps clean as too.

I had access to some old "I" Beams that were 5" tall and around 4' long. I welded them end to end and made a box more or less to embed in my floor. ( a box that is around 26' square) I welded just about anything I could find as far as scrap goes to keep it from being pulled out of the floor. Then I measured 2' from the outside edge and set them on top of the gravel before I poured the floor. With the smooth edge facing up that is. Once I got them set to where they would be flush with the top of the floor,I poured the concrete up to the top of them. Once it was set, you can weld anything you want to them. If I need to pull something I'll weld me a hook or a eye down to the beams and hook my come-a-long to it. Has worked very well for me over the past 11 years. I don't use them that often but, it's worth its weight in gold when I do have to have it.

I have a #100 Trenton and love it. Looks just like yours but, smaller. I enjoy working on it as much as my #150 HB. I'm still looking for a #400 or bigger.

Scott

The last count I had on the knives was almost $300 between the both of them. The family we donated them to really needed it.

Fine looking anvil. I'd be happy with it. It has many many years of use left in it.

6011 is one of the best AC rods made. They work well on DC as well. Just remember a 6011 does not have near as much slag as a 6013 or 7018. If I were you, I would grab some scrap and run a few beads with it.. One big difference between a 6011 and a 6013 rod is you don't really drag them like the 6013. More of a whipping motion. Not hard to do though. You can either whip it or make small circles. Either way works well.

Scott

I'd use it until it (needed) to be fixed. I'd be safe to say the anvil would do its job just fine without any welding on it. Using it instead of welding on it would be much cheaper. Just my thoughts.

Scott

I've got it's brother in my shop and would buy that one for that price if I had the chance. It's either a Trenton or Hay-Budden. Either way, that's a fine quality anvil.

Scott

Kinda looks like my HB or my Trenton. I'd use it as often as I could if it were mine.

Scott

Looks JUST like my Trenton. I'd say you have yourself a Trenton. Mine rings like a bell too.

Looking good so far. I was doing a welding job yesterday for a logger friend of mine and he gave me a saw chain from a buck saw. It looks like a chain saw chain but, on steroids. I've worked for him several times over the past few years and have picked up their (scrap) chains. I've probably got 20 to 25 lbs of them now. If not more. Sad thing is I have not had time to do anything with them. I'm looking forward to having some time this summer to make a few blades and see how it turns out.

Scott

7018 will work pretty well as will 70 series MIG wire. Yes, I saw that it is cast iron.

If you want something "stickier" but still machineable, 309 stainless would be nice, but 308-16 will work good too.

If you want to spend some bucks get a special purpose machinable nickel rod. I highly recomend MG products for special purpose rods.

What happens with cast is the filler metal (weld) and the base metal (cast) cool at different temps. That being said, it causes stress cracks. And due to the fact cast is a really dirty metal does not help either. Some cast welds beautifully and some not so well. There are tricks to keep it from cracking to much but, it still happens somewhat. You can drill a hole at each end of the crack and it will help it from cracking more. Preheat helps in some cases as well as a post heat and a very slow cool down time. Cover it up with insulation if you have it. With the machine being as large and as much mass as it has there, you should be able to do small weld and keep it cool. Takes a bit more time though.

Scott

Where's down here? :)

Would love to give it a try but, it's would be a few weeks b4 I could even get to it, much less take on the job of fixing it.

Toes are good. Unbroken toes = priceless :)

I have to say this much about those little welders. I own one myself and would buy another if needed. As far as thickness of welded metal goes. Your only limited to how much time you want to spend.on the.weld.

I have a Trenton as well and it rings more than my Hay-Budden. Both have a beautiful ring to them though. :D

My HB has a small crack in it about the same place. I'm going to use it like nothing's wrong with it. The an il would not be to hard to fix. I'd be safe to say it's a good anvil.

I've never used them for anything but what they are made for. They do make good blades for skidders though. I'm sure you could use them for an anvil if you weld it with 11018. Do a bit of preheat and weld it up