Fosterob

Looking good
Rob

I have repaired similar problem vices with the addition of some proper size washers on the screw where it captures the moving jaw. The ones I had wore out in that area. Sometimes the nut is bolted in and comes loose as well.
Rob

Thanks for the link, I have paper copies of that and more. It is a good link to alot of usefull info.
Rob

That is what I was going to recommend you do, don't tack it weld it all around with the anvil warm. The tacks will break with use. If it were mine I would run the sleeve up to the bottom of your tool steel face try to weld it there as well.
Rob

Hard chrome has a melting temp of 3400 degrees F so I would not worry so much about toxic fumes coming of the solid metal. Just be aware that there is a slight possibility of hazard.
Good score on the rod, I have several of those and love them, good way to get larger rounds, usually free.
Rob

Don , that ox bottle you bought , does it have an inspection date stamped into it? what happens to YOUR bottle when that date comes?

To get the width on the leaf I would start with 1" and put the bulb on like you are doing and make another, larger "bulb", tapered freehand on powerhammer, and come back and flattening, draw sideways with your texture dies. I would not use springswage for texture.
I may even put a groove in the end of your pointing die to allow a stem of sorts off the point of the bulb to attatch to whatever like it does in nature.
Rob

Did bradley offer custom of non standard die orientation like nazel did?

If you are using a cutting torch that goes on the regular torch then when you use it to heat with make sure to open the cutting torch valve all the way and use the main torch body valves to control the flame. that way if you accidentally hit the oxy lever you do not get any extra oxygen. That is opposite way of doing the oxy valves when used for cutting. Also you can do is turn down the regulator, which may be a better way to protect yourself from accidental cutting. If you have a cutting only torch this is the only way.
Rob

You are probably right but I would at least ask the question, all he can do is say no.
Hayden, how about it you interested in selling/trading one of those hammer heads?
I hope you guys can work something out that is good for everyone. Good luck
Rob

that was me but i was just looking for one that was a 2-3lb one like my 6lb one if its not to pricey i would be interested but i am on a pretty tight budget to the point where i am looking into trying to make a similar hammer out of a drive shaft from a tedder that got a bit of a twist in it this year

Panels look good so far, let us know how they turn out.
Rob

I'll use all but one of the hammer heads. 3 of them are Atha, ones a Hinnard or Hubbard, and the others are various brands, no chinese. A few of them are hand forged, and they'll be reground, and tempered for my uses

Magnet in a bag is a good method for picking up grit and such from the floor or table. As Glenn said just turn bag inside out and do with them what you choose. Keeps the magnet clean as well, that is why I use that method.
Rob

How about you put your general location in your profile, IFI is represented worldwide. It is possible that there is someone close enough to help you with your search. Phil

Another good use of a track torch is for making long welds, replace the cutting torch with a MIG gun. It will also do curves if you attach a cable to it tied too the center of the arc. You may have to run it without the track for curves or circles, mine does not use track.
Rob

Looking good
Rob

I went to the scrap yard today and this follwed me home, The large piece is 18-3/8x10-3/8x2, 106 lbs, the bar is 2-1/4x2-1/4x13-1/2. The 2 jackhammer points have never been used. I am not sure what type of steel they are, the big plate and the jackhammer points had almost identical sparks with the 4 in. grinder, lots of long straight sparks, the bar had simular sparks but less of them like it was harder. 160 lbs for $56. Not sure what I will use them for but the big piece will probably be used for an anvil, it weighs 2x what my anvil does. It also makes me think of a swedge block, has anyone made one of these?

You have it. Hit the nail on the head so to speak.
Rob

The harder the anvil face is the better the rebound. Try rebounding a hammer on a pile of sand or something soft- no rebound, then try on something hard like a good anvil or another hammer if you are careful not to hit it to hard- good rebound.
Rob

Are you hammering on Gumby's foot after you have finished the small tendril? Maybe keep the tendril tucked up against the body for support and one of the last things you do is bend it out.
Rob

Hebo is what all the others try to copy if I remember correctly. They are nice machines but $$$.
Rob

You thinking of slickstick sold by hougen for their magnetic drills?

Pipe dope is what plumbers/pipefitters use to join threaded pipe fittings together. Be sure to get a non hardening type.
Rob

Lube does a great job of keeping burrs from loading up. I use a can (soup size) with about an inch of oil in the bottom dip in the bur, pull it out of the oil and trigger the tool to fling off the excess oil inside the can. Repeat as needed. Single cut burrs work better on aluminum but the double cuts will not load up as bad with lube.
Rob