herchammer

I was surfing ebay, (it's the devil you know) and I ran across a 200 pound anvil. The guy had no descriptive narrative other than it had a "021" stamped on it. I couldn't tell much from the photo, but it didn't look too beat up. I thought there was no way I'd win this thing, and put in a low bid. Well, I won, and now I'm wondering if I just bought a 200 pound door stop. So, I'm wondering were there many anvils of that size manufactured that were junk? Don't get me wrong, I know that there are folks heatin and beatin on anything hard enough to hold up to hammer blows, but I'm still curious about this.

I was talking, with a friend of mine, about being just that much closer to having a hobby forge up and running. He asked me how hot the fire gets. I had to kind of give him the deer in the headlights look:confused:. I just told him that I forged more by watching the steel than by knowing the temp my fire was at. I'm just a novice, haven't had the opportunity to work at the anvil nearly as much as I would like, in the past few years. I am, however, taking steps to remedy that. So, anyone able to shed some light on my friend's question? I told him I'd ask you fine folks.

Can anyone help me identify this anvil. This was given to me, has a chip out of the edge, and cut marks on the horn. The tip of the horn is broken off, but this will beat what I had. The only markings that I've found is the number ten on the foot beneath the horn.

BentIron1946 just gotta say thanks on behalf of those guys. I appreciate folks like you lookin after those of us just getting started.

Sound advice Mr. Powers, thank you. My initial projects will probably be fairly small in size as I practice the various skills, and techniques, that I pick up. I will keep future projects in mind, but as you say, I can build forges to specific purposes. Thanks to all of you who responded to my inquiries, I truly appreciate it. John

I did a search of existing threads and came up with some different thoughts on firepot dimensions. I would still welcome your thoughts, and input.:)

O.K., I've decided against refractory cement casting. I was wondering, however, what you all feel is the best depth and overall dimension of your ideal fire-pot? John

Great information! I have much to consider now. I have neither the tools, nor the skill to weld up my own firepot, but I may have it done at a local fab shop. I had wondered about the firing of the refractory cement, and thought it might be a problem to control the temp to give it a slow enough rise. Thanks everyone, for the great feedback.

irnsrgn, the why is merely a question of alternatives to what I've seen. I would love to purchase a manufactured fire-pot, but I am interested in economical alternatives. I thought perhaps a refractory cement casting, or a refractory brick constructed fire-pot might be a viable alternative. Any thoughts on this? I have a brake drum from a large tractor, but I was really curious about the other possibilities.:confused:

I have questions about fire-pots cast from refractory cement. Is this the proper forum for this, or should I post in the "Problems" forum?

Thanks for the info ApprenticeMan. I can't wait to get to that point!

Wrought iron eh? I've never worked with it. Any tips?

I've run across a fellow that has several wagon tires. I was curious what type of steel they might be. I found the table on this site, that lists the RR, and junkyard steel values, but didn't see that item characterized. Would it be similar to a harrow disc? I also came across several hay rake teeth, I think I'll try to snag those this week.

Thanks JWB, I have read what I could find on this site, regarding the drafting principles of both. The side draft appears to be the most efficient, but I thought I would listen to what you all had to say. I'm curious about how much smoke is produced when you start your fire. Is it similar to an open forge, or a forge with a covering hood?

Thanks so much for the info on where to find the groups. I live in NW Missouri, not too far from St. Joseph. It looks like BAM is my best bet. Glen, I started that thread as you suggested.

Thanks Glenn, if I weren't so darned lazy, I might have found that section,...... eventually.:rolleyes:

The answer to the anvil question did not come as a surprise. I knew it would be substandard, given it's price, and lack of info, but wanted to ask.

As to the blacksmith meetings, how does one go about finding something in the area?

Thank you for the posts so far. I am anxious to hear more about your thoughts on forge types.

I ran across an anvil on ebay the other day. It was listed as 110lbs, and new. The seller states that this anvil is not made in China, not laminated, etc.... Unfortunately, the seller does not say where it is made and gives only a few details. The picture shows a fairly nice looking anvil, but you know how that goes. Here's the hook, the price,....$100.00 plus $63.00 to ship. Has anyone seen this, and has anyone got any idea how these anvils are, as far as rebound and durability?:confused::confused:

Up until now, I've only used an open forge, no hood of any kind. I am contemplating building a space dedicated to blacksmithing (as a hobby). My question is what do y'all think is the best design and what might I consider in the pros and cons? This will be from the ground up, and I would welcome any input from all of you.

Bear, you are absolutely right, and I feel foolish to have used something like ebay as a reference. I suppose there are many other sources for tools out there, I'm just a little slow in finding them. Thanks for re-opening my eyes to the obvious perils out there. John

Well, cheftjcook, if you put any stock in what the folks on ebay are getting for their tools, you will find that a riveter's forge, particularly a Champion, is going to go pretty high. If the blower is in good shape, and the hearth pan and firepot are not burned or rusted through, then the $350.00 price tag may not be that far off. Best of luck! I would love to be able to come up with just the Champion blower, but,they go for crazy prices too. John

Thanks for the info. The guys in the shop have done a few other anvil repairs, and were quick to tell me that they would be squaring the sole with the face. Milling was done before I got to read the replies here( they don't usually get so motivated) So, I may be out my small anvil if this doesn't work. I truly appreciate the info though, I'll try not to burden this board with too many mundane questions. Thanks again! John

I have an old 70 pound anvil, (small, but the only thing I've got), for years my father used it. It had a piece of steel welded over the original face, and the weld has finally broken. The fellows in the machine shop have offered to mill the face, and true-up the sides. At this point, I do not intend to try another over-lay on the face. My question is: What, if any effect will this have on the hardness of the anvil? Should it be heat treated after the milling process? I'm very curious to hear what wisdom and experience have to say. Thanks John