NRunals

yeah it does come in handy, i keep a couple hand sledges right there too if i really need to wail on somthing.

here is my vice... it's secured really well to the stump... but the stump only goes in the ground 6 inches so i gotta find a new one pretty soon here.

200# Peter Wright $300 in 2008 it has a bit of a sway back... comes in handy though

that's really cool

ooo i really like that chart that tells the RW hardness of diff types of steels when quenched. thanks :)

i may be mistaken but i don't think 375 F is hot enough to even draw a pale yellow . i was under the impression that yellow was around 420 or 430. it'd be real simple if i could just know what the carbon content is instead of guessing.

i misspoke... or mistyped i suppose... i meant to say "quench and no temper". and yeah i was just checking about the temper on med carbon I've read a lot about people making tools out of it and heat treating it in one action... but now that i think about it i believe that was a draw knife which needs to be harder than a forging hammer. hmm well... without knowing the carbon content i guess i'll just test it with a file.

hey, i'm about to make a hammer for a friend of mine who is just getting into blacksmithing... i just realized i had an old axle laying around in the shop. so i figured i'd ask first before i wasted a couple hours.. axles are medium carbon right? if so will medium carbon be tough enough with just a quench and no heat treating? will it be hard enough? thanks

haha... the vegtable oil i use for quenching got super super thick

it's about 20 during the day here... cold enough for my feet to be numb all day long. breaking up all the ice in the shop has become part of the morning routine.... i have no form of heat except the forge burn on my face :)

a few months ago i used a 1:1 ratio of water and muriatic acid to remove the zinc from a galvanized stove pipe 12 inches in diameter that i was using for my forge ventilation. i soaked it in a bucket for about 10 minuets and it was crystal clean. coated it in wax and that's that.

yeah i've read that froe's need not be hardened at all... but i was gonna temper it to a blue anyway i'm not the one that'll be making shingles a guy i used to live with wants me to make him one. hes siding his art studio with it.

good work on the hawk

alright cool thanks a lot. that project just got much easier.

if i rivet before forge welding will the scale still be able to shoot out? and do you think a purely rivet connection will be solid enough?

wow i like that piece a lot... it really has a lot of movement in it

hey guys i have a question about a froe that i'm about to make. i saw a few threads about making froes but they were like a year old or more... i don't know the proper protocol on rezing dead thereads or starting a new one so i'll just start a new one. anyhow...i'm making it out of a leaf spring. i plan on forge welding the eye, however i don't have 100% faith in my welds... so i thought riveting it after i forge weld it would be a good precaution to take. so my question is.... if my weld fails will the rivets be enough to keep a good solid connection? thanks p.s the picture in my mind of a froe with rivets looks pretty cool.... anyone think it's gonna look awful?

could they have had a longer description for that hunk of junk?

this year was the first year i processed my own tobacco and i purchased the wet leaves from someone for 3 dollars a pound. i got mostly burley and virginia gold... as for curing i just hung the leaves in a shed for about a month. for fermenting i stuck them in a box for about 3 more months about a week ago i smoked the first of the tobacco and it was surprisingly good. i sort of lost interest in the whole process and stopped paying attention.... but it still worked. there are a lot better methods out there though, like if you can keep the temp between 110 and 120F for 3 weeks with 90% (i think) humidity they will be fully fermented. i've heard it said though that the real good stuff is aged for another 1-3 years after this. oh yeah and the cutting of the leaves... i removed the midviens rolled it into a tight roll and used a new exacto blade and cut tiny slivers off the roll then came back and cut the slivers in half which surprisingly looked just like pipe tobacco.

i smoke pipe every now and again... i cure and ferment my own tobacco too :)

thank you sir. by the way i used to live in brandon MS

would salting the water work? or would that end up being too corrosive?

hey everyone, i just signed up for the forums today. i'm a new blacksmith this is only my second year of my studies it's nice to be here Nate