Herb Upham

Similar issues with my SSM50 were solved by replacing the gasket under the regulator. The original gasket was red rubber pinched between the bottom of the regulator assembly and a pipe "T" and was leaking. I replaced it with an "O" ring, and after learning how to adjust the regulator it works well again. I hope this helps ... air leaks in the plumbing and assemblies are a big deal as John says.

I recomend you figure out why you're are breaking the joints before trying to glue them back together. I break 2"X72" belts occassionally if I am running them too fast around a small contact wheel. The stiff heavy weight belts wear-out before failing on a flat platten or my 8" contact wheel ... on smaller wheels the flexable belts last longer and I run them slower (3000 sfm or less) without breaking. I have epoxyed broken belts but the time and effort are just not worth a new belt in my oppinion. Good luck!

I recomend talking to your local electric motor rebuild shop and ask for their advice. If the ceramic form is failing it is probably too late to fix.

Very good idea, I have a speaker magnet that I am going to use this idea with! Thank you!

Thank you all for the information and contacts!

Just incase there is a Sayha owner who has similar issues: I backed off the adjustment on the regulaor until the ram stoped moving, then turned it in 1/4 turn ... now the ram intermittantly oscillates ... in this condition the "trimmer" valve can be opened causing the ram to oscillate continually ... as it did when new. So the regulator adjustment is very sensitive and the ball and seat must be clean to work well! I can now adjust (using the "trimer valve") between slow(er) treadle release and jerkey start at the beginning if adding treadle pressure. If a fast release is desired then a slghlly jerk will be noticed when depressing the treadle ... if a smoth start is desired then about two partial ram stroke are required for the ram to return to the full up position. An alternative "test" is to start the hammer with the dies touching ... there will be 3 hits before the ram rises to the up position ... as the hammer performed when new. I hope this helps ... Another tip, if the compressor stage check valve cover is leaking air, a new (better) gasket can be cut from 1/4 inch thick Neoprene gasket material from your local auto parts store.

In BP1042 Forging 1-1/4 inch ball and spring tool Uri Hofi describes crowning the top die which releives stress on the weld and allows a simple spring confguration. My experience is that flat tops on the upper die stresses the weld and can lead to the weld failure.

A sacrificial sheet of kiln shelving works well ... as does a sheet of stainless steel. I prefer to use SS in my forge.

How about ... 1. ... you can't forge weld in a gas forge ... 2. ... what is a forge weld? How does it differ from a fusion weld? 3. What are the best lubricants for hot drift sizing holes? 4. What alloy (tool) steel provides the best compromise between hot work hardness/toughness and the ability to be struck without shattering or mushrooming excessively? 5. What is the best welding method to prevent heat effected zone cracking when welding low carbon to high carbon alloy steel? 6. How does Super Quench "harden" low carbon (mild) steel? ...

My Sayha SSM50 has a double acting check valve that is positioned vertically behind the front cylinder. The mounting gasket failed causing slow release response to the treadle. Sometimes it would take three or four strokes before the ram would return to the idle position. Replacing the gasket solved the release problem immediatley, but I am not sure of the correct process to adjust the spring tension on the check valves. Currently I have it adjusted so the ram idles normally but the adjustment does not seem to be very sensitive ... does anyone have experience with this adjustment? ... my hammer has the "trim valve" behind the ram ... and it seems to have no effect. Thank you!! Herb

This size works well, 1/2 inch material is better ... last longer ... and I would suggest a design using a clinker breaker (3 lobe ball in a round hole) as better than a multi-hole grate in the bottom. The grate is harder to keep clear of clinkers taht the clinker braker design. Happy forging!

It appears that the air gate control is not connected ... I use a similar set up with an electic blower replacing a Chamopin 400 hand crank blower, after getting used to controling the air gate to get the blast I wanted and shutting off the air while forging I prefer the electic blower ...

I'd recommend buying a cast iron grate form Centaur Forge (or similar) they last well in rivet forges. If you want to stay with mild steel, use 1/4" plate (minimum) ... or better yet make a crossed collection of cast iron pieces which will emulate a grate. An alternative would be !/4" heat resistand SS ... but that would be more expensive than cast iron. Good luck!

I have 6 anvils that are stored outside year around, they are kept clean and rust-free by spraying whem with WD40 and covering them with a cloth towel or rag and weighting it down so the wind will not blow it off. I buy WD40 in Gallon cans from my local hardware store where it is cheeper than the spray cans and use a hand pump sprayer.