MikePierich

Real good stuff - thanks!

Just got it this afternoon (love that Amazon Prime free 2-day shipping!). Now I already "know" how to draw out a blade and "pack" the edge. It is a great book. Still glad I have the Boye book - together they're very complimentary. I won't be making any armor any time soon, LOL. But you never know...I'm thinking a half a 20-gallon grease drum would make a good start. :)

Thanks Derek, the more choices the better.

Gosh, I'd forgotten about silkscreen. Now I'm thinking you could just use rubber cement to stick just about any mask to the surface. Thanks.

Thanks Phil. Hadn't had much luck on Google so far, but if it's out there I'll find it.

Thanks, David.

I was thinking about when I get some decent blades made, maybe doing some etching. I knew about beeswax and acid, but that requires an artist to work by hand. Then I found out about the saltwater and battery method. Wow. I etched a vine on my pocket knife blade...left it in for 3 hours and it actually got way deeper than necessary. I love this cheap method....but you still need an artist. I used nail polish for a resist, but in subsequent experiments found that it flakes off randomly so isn't suitable for fine details. Anybody know of a stencil material that can be printed with an inkjet printer, and then be adhered to the steel so the salt bath doesn't get under it? That would be ideal since the artist wouldn't ever have to touch the knife. It appears that the Etch-o-matic stencils aren't adhesive, which wouldn't work in a salt bath. OTOH, I suppose one could dab it on if one pole of the battery were hooked to a wad of cotton with the saltwater on it...but it still seems to me that the saltwater would work its way under the stencil Any thoughts?

I just looked in our county system. Thanks for the suggestion, but I figure since the book is mentioned here numerous times, it must be worth risking less than 20 bucks. But that'a good tip for more unknown books so I'll use it in the future for sure.

Actually, I have had "Step-by-Step Knifemaking" since the early 80's when I first made a few blades. You're right, it is an excellent book. I'm sure it's been updated since then, but it's a great book as is. But I have the impression that the "Complete Bladesmith" covers forging, which my old edition of Boye's book doesn't at all.

This seems to be the best book to get started, according to most people in here. Local library system doesn't have it - but I checked Amazon and it's a measly 17 bucks in paperback, and with the Prime membership you can have it in two days with no shipping fee (U.S.). Just passin' it on.

Yeah, just getting back into knifemaking and smithing after 30 years, figgered I'd try to do it right this time. Thanks, I'll check it out.

Thanks, Thomas, for the practical tips. They make sense. Sounds like everyone's in agreement on the book...I'll check out the local library.

OK, thanks Rich. I'll do a little experimenting then maybe try to find somebody local.

Anybody know of a thread or sticky about drawing out a blade to shape? I think I have the general idea but any info would help. It would be cool to be able to do that as opposed to stock removal. I did do a search as best I could - the results were all over the place and didn't really address the topic. Thanks

Thanks Rich, I'll check it out.